Timing...

[w18764560]

Correct me if I'm wrong...
I'm no pro but I have pretty good skill when it comes to gunsmithing,
I just got a NMSBH .44mag..As I cock the hammer rearward I should see the bolt retract into the bolt slot..I should also see the cylinder begin to rotate at the precise moment that the bolt begins its downward movement...Correct? The Rugers are absoloutely new to me...

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Well, the cylinder should start to rotate at or shortly after when the bolt drops out of the cylinder . . . not before. It's not a super precise combination of moves so long as the cylinder doesn't try to rotate BEFORE the bolt retracts.

 

[w18764560]

and trigger movement.in relation to bolt drop/cyl rotation?

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Well, the bolt drops onto the cylinder a "little bit" before the rotation allows it to drop into the notch on the cylinder. We kinda hope for a "coincidence" of the bolt falling into the notch on the cylinder and the pawl running out of stroke . . . and this immediately followed by the hammer arriving at "full cock". Seems to me the trigger pops forward somewhere in there, but I cannot recall exactly when. I don't think the New Models and the Old Models are alike in this respect.

None of mine work EXACTLY the same way.

 

[w18764560]

my 41 mag Bisley is not exactly the same either...but, if you observe the bolt, holding up to light between frame and cyl and slowly draw back(cock) hammer, you'll see the bolt start to drop, then the cylinder should start it's rotation and the trigger at the same time should move rearward, as if you were firing?

 

[Ale-8(1)]

The trigger has to move to follow/engage the sear notch on the hammer, so yeah, something like what you are saying.

Sounds like you are quite able to observe the action of the gun. Why the questions?

 

[w18764560]

Well...just trying to make sure the timing is right...before I shoot it...
I've worked a few DA S+W's and SA Italians, I'm just not familiar enuff w/ the Rugers.

 

[tommyt]

If and when you draw the hammer and the Cylinder locks Directly in-line with the Cone /Barrel on every cylinder you should be fine
and you timing is good If you are still concerned of your eye to see the alignment of Cylinder/cone/barrel find a nice Dowel in as close diameter of you 44 and run it from muzzle end on each rotation

Hope this helps I had more than one Problem and these guys helped me ,So if you are wanting a bit more look for my Post
I am still in the caution lane but learning

Tommyt

 

[Pinecone]

w18764560, That's an "interesting" handle you go by. You must own a Winchester Model 1876 in .45-60! If so, you own a very "collectible" firearm there! You are very observant in watching what your Ruger does when cocking it. As a longtime gunsmith, I always recommend that the first step in smithing' your own gun is to learn how it is "supposed" to function! Once you have that down, you can then better detect "glitches' when you see them. In a single action revolver, you should be able to "slowly" go through the cocking function without any drag or hesitation "IF" the gun is working right! You will soon know if something is amiss by this test. If you don't own a set of range rods, I would recommend you invest in a set of four (.357, .41, .44 & .45) to be able to properly check chamber to bore allignment in the cocked and uncocked positions. This is a very good way to check the ultimate result of the timing "sequence"! ...................Dick :wink:

 

[rugerguy]

Good info above, and bottom line is you will find that the "unlock" ( bolt dropping down and popping back up) ,changes from brand to brand,,Colts SA's and old model Rugers the 'bolt' (cylinder lock) stays down and pops up in the lead area of the cylinder, thereby leaving NO line, Colts ,Smiths and other, it jumps up and can and will put a line in the cylinder from day One.....this line is the nature of the beast and it should be even , straight, from chamber to chamber.....if NOT, then there may be an issue.....yes, some folks can modify the new models to stay down longer and lessen this line, but this isn't from the factory................a smooth polish will also help.. the gun has to "unlock" to turn, and lock up and be "in line" when the hammer is cocked all the way back ( or in the case of a double action, locked up, before the hammer falls...) Old Colt double actions borderline on falling and locking up at the same time..............

 

[w18764560]

Pinecone you are the first to decipher that handle...hats off to ya pard...
Thanks for all the info, sorry about the lapse between posts...
BTW it is a great shooter....turns heads at the range when it goes whuuumpf....and the BP smoke floats across the line...I love her!