Thread Locker on 3-Screw?

[rem58sport]

I just fully striped and cleaned a new to me 1970 single six. The 2 rear grip frame screws and the lower front had a thread locker of some kind on them. I'm new to these Ruger's but I had not seen a mention of needing a thread sealer. I assume it is not necessary or recommended and I would prefer to not use.

Not needed right?

 

[rugerguy]

depends of when ( vintage) seen the older ones with a threadlocker called "Nylok" it was white and for a few years they came with a dab of 'red' on them.........and seen some that had NOTHING 'extra'.............ah, the "parts bin theory"......

 

[rem58sport]

Thank you. This was a red color and not like anything I have seen come from a tube in the last 30 years. It was thick, in fact I could not clean it all off the threads.

Even though this old SS is a bit rough, it didn't seem to have been apart much as the screw heads are very clean, just a bit rusty.

 

[crstrode]

I've lost more than one screw from Blackhawks. It seems to me that the front grip frame screw works loose more than others. Loctite is now a good friend.

 

[KRuger]

Without a bit of blue locktite my stainless NM SBH likes to loosen screws and launch the ejector rod housing assembly. A bit only. Too much is worse than not enough. Some of the screw holes enter the inner workings; which do not like locktite. Once is enough. This gun is the only one I use it on.
KRuger

 

[Wyandot Jim]

I do NOT use locktite but if I have a screw that wants to keep coming out. Like the ejector rod housing screw. I use a piece of small mono fish line around the screw threads and tighten that baby up

 

[hittman]

I've never had the need for locking or securing screws in any Ruger.
S&W ….. duh, of course.

I'd take up Wyandot Jims idea or use a dab of clear fingernail polish or maybe half a small drop of blue lock tite if absolutely needed.

 

[Johnnu2]

Before I learned of Lok-Tite, I used my wife's clear nail polish.... I have both in the workshop...I find that almost all the screws on my OM guns work lose; BUT, I attribute that to me stripping my guns completely whenever I feel the need to deep clean things. The ejector housing screws are tricky critters now and then; and this week, I caught the spring-loaded cross screw that hold the cylinder pin in place was 'finger lose'.

J.

 

[WanderLust]

I used Loc-tite a LOT in the largest snack manufacturer of the US. We learned the difference in the colors, and they are quite useful to anyone who deals with machines, guns, cars, etc. Please look up the chart they provide for really detailed info.
Purple is the lightest holding power for very small screws, which are easily removed.
Blue is the next level of holding power, normally needing a handtool to remove. Bolt sizes are 1/4" to possibly 3/4"
Red is a much stronger holding power, and many times requires a heating to 350 degrees + a tool to remove.
Green is a unique animal, made to 'creep' into an assembled unit and lock it down tightly. Strong hold, from my experience.
Their primer is a good cleaner and bonder, which can gain about 25% more strength in the right conditions. I rarely needed it though.
Their detailed charts will tell you which one is recommended for temps, holding needs, dissembly needs, etc. QUITE useful from what I have seen.
An important detail about their products: Less is more, in many cases. The charts will tell you full coverage, 1/4 coverage, etc based on the bolt size and the usage requirements for that bolt. DON'T assume that if some is good, more is better. Sometimes yes, mostly no.
It works in the absense of air, which means it will begin to cure within 1 hour of being installed. As long as its exposed to air, it remains liquid.
If you place it on a bolt and DON'T install it right away, it might be good for several hours, up to 1/2 a day. Once cured, it remains at full strength
unless the seal is broken (bolt backed out or removed).
In my opinion, it's great stuff with no real negatives. If you don't like it, it's easily stripped off a part when dissembled. I've found nothing which holds as well. NASA uses it. I keep the Red and Blue in my workshop at all times.
If you don't like the mess of the liquid bottles, they do make a chapstick style which is very handy.
And NOOO! I'm not a salesman here. I just know its a superb tool that everyone should try. It's cheap insurance against our common issues.
If anyone says mean things about Loc-tite, I'll probably cry......

 

[NikA]

I feel like light grease (I use LubriPlate) and thread locker are the sophisticated man's WD-40 and Duct Tape. I use both accordingly.

Ruger sent me screws with either NyLock inserts or dry thread locker when I requested a new set, I couldn't tell you which without taking something apart. Makes sense to have some resistance to disassembly on a piece that rarely needs to be taken apart but is subjected to vibration.

 

[Dan in MI]

When I shot silhouette heavy I checked the frame screws on my Super Blackhawk before every match and they needed it.

Wanderlust, great info on loc-tite for the uninitiated.

 

[Johnnu2]

Freedom Arms uses green lok-tite on their ejector rod to ejector rod-'head' juncture forgot what they call that thumbpiece;
anyway, the question is: what's the best method to get it to release?
THANKS,
J

 

[NikA]

Freedom Arms uses green lok-tite on their ejector rod to ejector rod-'head' juncture forgot what they call that thumbpiece;
anyway, the question is: what's the best method to get it to release?
THANKS,
J

Heat it with a propane torch. If it's something you're concerned about damaging, you can use a soldering iron to apply the heat to a smaller area.

 

[Hvymax]

I just fully striped and cleaned a new to me 1970 single six. The 2 rear grip frame screws and the lower front had a thread locker of some kind on them. I'm new to these Ruger's but I had not seen a mention of needing a thread sealer. I assume it is not necessary or recommended and I would prefer to not use.

Not needed right?

Yeah they used to stake the screws to keep them from backing out. You just take a hammer and chisel and impress the frame metal into the head of the screw like they did in the old days.

 

[Dan in MI]

I'd go with blue first. No heat required to remove and grip frame screws probably don't need that much help to stay in place.

 

[Johnnu2]

Heat it with a propane torch. If it's something you're concerned about damaging, you can use a soldering iron to apply the heat to a smaller area.

Thanks Nika, that's what I was thinking. When I get aroundtoit, I'll use the soldering iron approach since the rod and head are inside the ejector rod housing and I was trying to get them out when the green lok-tite stopped me. I don't want to damage the housing so the iron might do the trick. BTW, when I first stumbled upon the problem, I called FA and they told me they had used "green", so "send it back". I was also thinking about 'soaking' the whole assembly in boiling water, but didn't know what that would do to the beautiful SS housing.....Sooner or later, I'll do it myself.
THANKS AGAIN,
J.

 

[rem58sport]

Wow, I lot of great info from my question. I'm still surprised to still see the factory red on a 70 year old frame. Yes the ejector housing screw was very loose when I first checked it out from the display case so I will keep an eye on it with use. I'm use to using Loc-Tite blue and or purple on my Buckmark (opps said that word on the Ruger site) so a little dab will do you. Tks.

 

[WanderLust]

One trick we learned on small or hard-to-reach screws that needed heat:
Find a longer screw that could be held with a set of pliers, about the same diameter as the screw head. Heat one end of that screw, use the pliers to hold it against the targeted part, and let the heat transfer into the affected screw. Very high success rate for releasing the loc-tite.

 

[eveled]

I use this. https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlo...ble-threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

It is red and sounds like what you are describing. It goes on the screw then you let it dry before assembly. So it doesn't ooze were you dont want it. The screw can be loosened and adjusted but is still locked.

No need to reapply it when you disassemble and reassemble