This Wolff Spring Kit for my 50th Anniversary Blackhawk?

[rug357]

I like my 50th Anniversary 357 Blackhawk a lot except for the heavy trigger. The trigger feels heavy compared to other Blackhawks I've tried. I have been dry firing it a lot for past two months but it has only improved slightly. I thought about ordering one of these spring kit from Wolff to see if it will improve the trigger.

My main concern is perhapse compromising the reliability of the revolver by using lighter springs. The spring kit consist of 14 lb. reduced hammer spring, 30 oz. reduced trigger spring and extra powder base pin latch spring.

Would these springs improve the trigger (lighter) and more importantly will my revolver remain reliable even with some of the "harder" primers?

 

[tek4260]

The trigger spring will lighten it. The latch spring should be installed as insurance against the base pin walking. The 14lb hammer spring should be thrown in the trash. I purchased a NM from a member here in the classifieds and had light strikes. It had a spring kit installed. I replaced the hammer spring with a factory one and all is well now. On a side note, I noticed I wasn't flinching with the 325's when it snapped.

 

[101VooDoo]

Just get a 30 oz trigger spring. The anniversary models already have a 17 lb hammer spring.

My .44 Magnum - Anniversary went from 3lbs 12oz to 2lb 4 oz with the 30 oz trigger spring and the factory hammer spring.

Jim

 

[Hammerdown77]

I second the recommendation for the 30 oz. trigger return spring. My Blackhawk felt like a completely different gun after I replaced the factory spring with it.

 

[ra]

Most people will not agree but I take a set of dykes and cut one leg off of the trigger return spring. Some people unhook one leg, you could try that. People will say that it is unsafe, unreliable, but really you are just reducing the resistance of the spring, the same principle as replacing the spring with a lighter pull weight.
I have a Single-Six that I bought in '83 that has thousands of rounds thru it with no problem.

ra

 

[edlmann]

The anniversary models already have a 17 lb hammer spring.

True, but meaningless.

The anniversary have a shorter spring because of the lock. Can't really compare the spring weights except to other Rugers with the lock.

 

[Pal Val]

+1 to leaving in the mainspring and replacing the trigger spring. I have the notion that cutting or releasing one of the legs in the factory trigger spring will give it an uneven pull, making it lighter, but creepier and probably unreliable. Bad tradeoff.

Replacing the trigger spring is a 5 minute job. BTW, all my SA guns have the heavier base pin retainer spring. I like it, and have not had a single base pin come undone by recoil with the heavy spring.

 

[Yosemite Sam]

+1 to leaving in the mainspring and replacing the trigger spring. I have the notion that cutting or releasing one of the legs in the factory trigger spring will give it an uneven pull, making it lighter, but creepier and probably unreliable. Bad tradeoff.

I've never had the "Poor Man's Trigger Job" make the pull "uneven" or creepy. However, when I attempted to do it to my gun with short/weak (S&W? ) mainspring, the "hanging" leg of the trigger spring was enough to interfere with the weak mainspring, and cause light strikes.

You could either trim the trigger spring leg off to get it out of the way, or replace it with a lighter, or even "properly" bent spring. That's what I ended up doing. CAS has instructions on his site (www.cylindersmith.com) for "proper" bending of the trigger spring.

-- Sam

 

[Pal Val]

I have bent a number of trigger springs. It works. In fact, my favorite solution is to buy the light trigger spring and then bend down the tip. It gives me the proper spring geometry. I work it so I get a 3 lb trigger pull.

I've never shimmed a SA trigger, but I polish them mirror-smooth. Works for me.

 

[actionflies]

With the wolff springs and polishing the contact surface, my trigger pull came to 2.5lb. and no light primer strike either.

 

[mm6mm6]

I bought the Wolff Spring Kit too. I installed the hammer and trigger springs and my pull is 2.5 pounds and very good with no ignition problems. Best $14 I ever spent!

 

[Rodfac]

I've done the "poor man's trigger job", one leg of the trigger return spring off its peg and had no trouble...it has about halved the trigger pull weight on six NM Rugers. The creep is still there (the take up or movement in the trigger before it allows the hammer to fall), but that has smoothed up with use. Now the guns that I've used this method on, feel a little like a two stage military trigger but with much less initial slack in the "first stage". I like them that way, coming from a long backround with the M1 Garand, '03 Springfield, Krag, and M1 Carbine.

Regards, Rodfac

 

[flatgate]

The anniversary models already have a 17 lb hammer spring.

True, but meaningless.

The anniversary have a shorter spring because of the lock. Can't really compare the spring weights except to other Rugers with the lock.

I beg to differ. Have you had a Lock equipped Ruger in one hand and a "pre lock" similar gun in the other?

Night and Day difference!!! One has a snappy hammer fall on one is mushy....

flatgate - who uses Old Army mainsprings

 

[SAJohn]

I have a .44 flattop anniversary (lock) and a new Model .45 (no lock). Just bending the trigger spring and polishing the sear contact surfaces resulted in trigger pulls of just over 2 pounds with minimum trigger travel. The stock mainspring just does not need replacing and bending the stock trigger spring will accomplish the same as buying a reduced power spring.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

John