Taking apart a super redhawk

[arlessinfl]

I recently purchased a used super redhawk in excellent condition.

I would like to take it apart to perform a deep cleaning.

However, I cannot seem to get the trigger lock plunger depressed. I have used a screwdriver and a t-handled hex driver through the little slot in the grip frame with no luck.

Is there something else that will work? I do not want to damage the gun.

Thanks,
A

 

[GP100man]

they can be stubbron, a little tap from a little hammer .
probably has never been removed , & when it is out smooth it up a bit for next time.
i use tetra gun grease in that particular spot.

GP100man

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!
Do you have the manuel for the gun? I hope so. If not, contact Ruger for one, they are free. 603-863-3300
Now, please be careful as to the tools you use to depress the trigger housing lock plunger. You don't need extra gouges & burrs in there. Next, add a bit of lube to that area. let it soak in. Then, befor you attempt to remove it, using a rubber mallet, or a plastic deadblow hammer, CAREFULLY tap the triggerguard, and all around the edges of the seam where it mates to the mainframe. If there is crud or crust in there, the lube & tapping it will loosen it up a bit. Then depress the lock pin and see if it won't pop out.

 

[arlessinfl]

Hi -

I downloaded the manual from the Ruger website and got as far as the trigger lock plunger. The main spring strut and the hammer pivot pin were easy.

I will try to put some lube on it tonight and then try gentle pressure tomorrow using a smaller plastic hammer. I will definitely tap the triggerguard around the edges.

Thank you so much for the suggestions.

 

[Dallasite357]

Most people either make or I think you can purchase a Ruger Popper tool from Midway(don't know what it is called.) Pushing the plunger is difficult because the spring is strong and you are pushing at an angle rather than straight on. As you keep the plunger pushed in, you have to also pull on the trigger guard.
When the trigger assembly is removed be careful about cycling the trigger. My cylinder stop fell off and I had to sweep the breakfast room to find the associated spring and plunger.

 

[Lost Sheep]

Most people either make or I think you can purchase a Ruger Popper tool from Midway(don't know what it is called.) Pushing the plunger is difficult because the spring is strong and you are pushing at an angle rather than straight on. As you keep the plunger pushed in, you have to also pull on the trigger guard.
When the trigger assembly is removed be careful about cycling the trigger. My cylinder stop fell off and I had to sweep the breakfast room to find the associated spring and plunger.

I read the Midway quit selling the "Popper" tool A flat blade screwdriver did the job just as well.

After removing the hammer, when you look straight down on the spring-loaded plunger that keeps the trigger group housing in place. You should also be able to see where you can insert the tip of a medium size flat bladed screwdriver. If you wiggle it a bit, you should be able to see the plunger move slightly. If it does not move, let it soak in a solvent a bit longer.

When you insert the screwdriver, you whould be able to wedge the tip between the plunger, depress the plunger and pull down on the trigger guard to release the trigger group housing. (Press down a bit on the screwdriver, too, it helps.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep

 

[I_Like_Pie]

I use a chopstick to get mine off.

Be careful when it does move when putting muscle behind it...the edge of the trigger group that mates to the frame can be sharp!


Also....watch for flying parts!!!! that trigger guard has 2 of them if you are a first timer with disassembly.

 

[arlessinfl]

Well - I was able to get the trigger guard and parts off.

Now, I am having trouble getting it back together correctly.

The trigger guard/assembly goes back in easy enough but the trigger does not go all the way back. The transfer bar makes it up to just the very bottom of the firing pin.

When the hammer is in, the sear does not release the hammer.

The cylinder pawl is in the right place as is the transfer bar but it does not want to work.

Any help is appreciated, since the manual does not tell you what to do.

Thanks,
A

 

[arlessinfl]

Figured it out.

The trigger lock plunger was not going in far enough into the frame and was preventing the trigger from going back as far as it needed to to release the sear.

Interesting...

 

[torrent]

Listen, whatever you do DON'T try to take the trigger assembly apart with oily fingers! There are small peices in there that will go everywhere and can hide in the most unlikely spots. If you're working on a cluttered surface try putting down a shop towl or something to catch all those little guys.

 

[contender]

Glad it's all worked out!

 

[arlessinfl]

Listen, whatever you do DON'T try to take the trigger assembly apart with oily fingers! There are small peices in there that will go everywhere and can hide in the most unlikely spots. If you're working on a cluttered surface try putting down a shop towl or something to catch all those little guys.

You are right. After I had the trigger assembly out of the frame, I pulled the trigger and the transfer bar fell out.

Luckily, I am not so brave as to completely take the trigger assembly apart. I just wanted to take it out of the frame to do a cleaning.

The plunger preventing the trigger from going back all the way stumped me for awhile. I only noticed this after I tried to pull the trigger really hard and noticed that it went a little bit further than previously. Then I noticed that the plunger was extending further into the frame.

Now that it is clean and lightly lubed. I do not expect to take the gun apart again for a long time.

Thank y'all so much for all of your helpful suggestions and tips.

A in Atlanta.

 

[BGoff_SC]

I just went through all this mess this weekend. I ordered a Ruger Popper from a fellow in North Carolina. $10.00. Great information here on how to get through it though. They should have had some better instruction in the manual, plus on the video at the Ruger Web Site.

Using the Mainspring assembly just didn't work. So I used a flat screwdriver which worked, after I figured out that it had to be depressed inwards, towards the frame.

Simultaneously pull down and remove trigger guard assembly sounds real simple but...
Anyway all is well that ends well. It's still a great revolver.

 

[EarlFH]

BGoff_SC,

Would you post some info on how to order one of those Ruger poppers from the fellow in North Carolina? I'd like to buy one of them.

Thanks,
EarlFH

 

[45flattop]

I'd love to know how to order one of those poppers too, Midway and Brownell's both no longer carry them apparently and a source would
be great to have.

 

[eric conrad]

Go over to the auction section here. Open first post by gp100 it will be the best $10.00 you have spent if you have a gp or SRH. Eric

 

[GP100man]

A PM to me will get ya the info !!

I`ve made em since `85 , the early GPs did`nt have that slot cut in the rear strut .

 

[BGoff_SC]

A PM to me will get ya the info !!

I`ve made em since `85 , the early GPs did`nt have that slot cut in the rear strut .

Ruger called me today. They've replaced the hammer and trigger link guard so far and she should be sent back to me next week. Thanks for the help.

Bill