Super wrangler hammer broken

[Loyola1955]

Bought a new super wrangler in July and used it for range (about 800 l live rounds) and laser at home
Hammer broke so clean at home that I assume it was a part defect
It has been returned to Ruger for replacement without comment from them to date so I am assuming a satisfactory resolution
My question is about laser/dri fire which at my age is both fun and convenient. (Wife heads for her car when I start )
Page 16 of the Ruger supplied manual says no problem with dri fire but should I be using
Dri I walll fasteners or the much more expensive commercial products..
PS; the number in my address is high school grad date.Do the math.

 

[WanderLust]

I believe you're thumb-cocking too hard!! Ease up on that pressure, young man.
I admire anyone from my Dad's era who is still slinging lead, so Good for You! Rugers should not have any trouble with dry-firing, but snap-caps or comparable items never hurt. This HAS to be a factory defect, especially with only 800 rounds.

 

[azleite]

Amen Brother!!

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum Sir!
(I'm a wee bit younger & was raised to respect my elders! )

While the Ruger manuals say the gun can be dry-fired, it's always a good idea to have a form of snap cap in each chamber. I consider such equipment CHEAP compared to potential repairs.

 

[WAYNO]

I also read often, dry firing is okay. Maybe so when you must. But a continued regimen of dry firing with any firearm makes me cringe.

 

[wproct]

I'm one who likes to dry-fire also. My recommendation is to find some plastic/rubber material that is maybe around 3/8 inch thick and cut a square of it that will fit in the hammer channel right above the firing pin. This will prevent the hammer and transfer bar from even touching the firing pin, and it also softens the blow of the hammer, try it and you can tell just by the sound. Picture below is a sample of this approach in my GP100.

 

[Loyola1955]

Many thanks for comments
I have ordered dry wall fasteners from amazon
One more question
Should they be turned slightly in the cylinder to spread the impact or just left along
One more question
I colored the front sight with orange nail polish and it made a big positive difference
As a result considering coloring the rear sight with white or yellow nail polish for contrast
Comments please and my thanks

 

[Loyola1955]

I'm one who likes to dry-fire also. My recommendation is to find some plastic/rubber material that is maybe around 3/8 inch thick and cut a square of it that will fit in the hammer channel right above the firing pin. This will prevent the hammer and transfer bar from even touching the firing pin, and it also softens the blow of the hammer, try it and you can tell just by the sound. Picture below is a sample of this approach in my GP100.

Thanks for coment
I do use the hammer to activate my laser (combination bore sight and single burst) so not sure if your method would stop the burst but have ordered wall board fasteners that hopefully will accomplish the objective.

 

[peachhead]

Never heard of using dry wall fasteners.
Why not use expended 22 brass?

 

[Loyola1955]

Never heard of using dry wall fasteners.
Why not use expended 22 brass?

That was my initial thought as well but someone said brass too soft and would get stuck in chamber
The yellow wall fasteners j are apparently a common and much cheaper form of snap cap and in addition to a number of suggestions on line the sales rep at the Florida gun exchange store also suggested them.
They just arrived and rear is an exact match for a .22 cal LR
Who would have thunk it

 

[contender]

You can use drywall anchors as a cheap snap cap. But over time & use,, they too will deteriorate to where they won't work as intended. Occasionally rotating them in the chambers slightly spreads out the use for them.

Many people color the front sight like that. In fact,, to get a better sharpness of the color,, lots of folks add white polish first,, let it try, then add their favorite color on top of the white.

As to the rear,, most of us just leave it alone,, as the darker slot is a good contrast to a colored front.

 

[Johnnu2]

I've been using the yellow drywall anchors for a long time... Full disclosure: I DO NOT dry fire other than an occasional trigger test but, I've never had a problem. I use them in revolvers and autos of all and any manufacturers. As you know, you can order them in large quantities so switching them out is cheap and easy. If you are really OCD, you can fire a cylinder full and take them out and just put then back in randomly....
J.

 

[moparclan]

I also us the yellow drywall anchors and used .22 brass. Rotate them each cylinder full to prevent firing pin penetration of the rim both the plastic and brass.

 

[gunzo]

I think wproct has hit the nail on the head. Snap caps or a version of are to protect the firing pin & possibly the rear of the cyl.. While a good thing to use, they wouldn't really seem to help the hammer. The top face of the hammer slapping the rear of the frame is where the shock & stress is on the hammer.

I wouldn't fret at all about the use, or not, of caps when in your case it likely was not the issue. which in this case was obviously a defective product.