Stupid Accident: Barrel Touch-Up?

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adam12

Single-Sixer
Joined
May 26, 2014
Messages
196
Yep, one of those classic 1.8 second happenings that find you completely inert like you're watching a movie. OK, make that like I'M watching a movie. I've got some guns lined up in my library that just are run-offs from the 2 safes, so They're leaning up nicely spaced agains the wal-to-wall book shelves a buddy of mine made 20 years ago.

I reached up to put a knife (yes, you read that right) back on a high shelf, somehow that put the Pedersoli .72 double rifle (the one with the 35 lb barrels) in motion to the left. I kinda saw it knock a Vincent replica caplock while it twisted and went underneath that and smashed into a beautiful vase with primitive deer glazed on it that was temporarily on the floor before knocking into my G L Jones .45 flintlock and sending that just sailing backwards until it met the last bookshelf behind it, Thank God. Somehow, nothing got hurt except the vase, which I bought over 20 years ago and loved dearly and the shards of that vase carved a couple scratch and actual dents through the deep bluing of the right barrel of the .72 double and sheared a tiny piece of the top of the wood on the left side of the forearm.

I've never had to touch up bluing on a gun before. Any helpful hints as to the easiest and best way? Mind you, I'm not looking to make this as deep and glossy and rich as the original bluing. I just don't want the scratches and what I call dents (but they're really in the thick bluing, not the barrel) to blast out at you and scream "Look at us! See how screwed up we make this gun look!"

Your help is appreciated.

Many Thanks - A12
 

pete44ru

Hunter
Joined
Dec 6, 2004
Messages
2,176
.

I'm pretty sure that your first order of business ought to be to add a ledger board to the face of the shelving, that has notches cut into it as barrel rests.

Both bluing & browning are similar rusting processes, the difference being that the bluing process adds a step (dipping the piece into boiling water prior to carding) - which turns the browned finish blue/blue-black.

For touch-up, a cold browning (ILO a cold blue) solution can be used.

http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown.htm



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Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
7,775
A12 ,sorry to hear of the accident, as they say "stuff" happens... remember that ANY of the cold blues are only temporary,not permanent but we have found over the years to use '44-40' cold blue ,degrease the area, put a bit on a Q-tip and rub the bare metal, then using your finger tip or the edge of your palm, rub briskly over and over, wipe,dab, rub again, and try to blend in the spot with the surrounding area stay close do NOT spread the cold blue too far away, by rubbing with your skin this both burnishes the area and warms the spot,,,,,,some folks use a hair dryer but that never really worked for us, besides takes longer........ you can do a few applications as needed.......then oil the area, I use 'RIG' myself, works on metal, plastic and wood.......
on some guns I do not like to do or use ANY cold blue, Colts and S&W older blued finishes do NOT "touch up" well, basic blued guns and parkerizing, the above works for us and has for MANY years......................the only real, true , and proper solution is buff,polish and reblue, and again, todays bluing solutions are NOT the same as many older guns , that had or used 'nitre blue' ,carbona, etc,,,those bright royal blue colors are only found on some 'italian' guns today...............

bottom line is you only want to protect the now "bare" , exposed metal, and simply keeping it well oiled will do this............
 
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