Stock refinishing

[Flash]

I never had poor results at this but had always sanded dimples and gouges to smooth the wood. I always heard of steaming dimples and dents but never really tried it, in part due to steering away from guns that required it. Well during a shopping trip, I saw a pre-warning 10/22 walnut on the rack that had its fair share of use with a good 95% of it showing in the wood. The butt plate had scars but the trigger guard and receiver were free from any scratches or dings. After a thorough disassembly, including the magazine(Bill was a genius by the way), I found this gun to be nothing short of an example of excellence. This is the first one I've ever completely disassembled and boy was I impressed. Back to the issue.
The stock was stripped using a generic furniture stripper and then the marks really began to show. I decided to use the steam method and soaked a clean wash cloth and placed the cloth over the marks. Using a steam iron on its highest setting, I placed the hot iron on the cloth until the steam stopped rising. Voila', the dents and dings are gone. I had to pass this simple tip along, for those like me who never tried it.

 

[Wheelgunner]

I never had poor results at this but had always sanded dimples and gouges to smooth the wood. I always heard of steaming dimples and dents but never really tried it, in part due to steering away from guns that required it. Well during a shopping trip, I saw a pre-warning 10/22 walnut on the rack that had its fair share of use with a good 95% of it showing in the wood. The butt plate had scars but the trigger guard and receiver were free from any scratches or dings. After a thorough disassembly, including the magazine(Bill was a genius by the way), I found this gun to be nothing short of an example of excellence. This is the first one I've ever completely disassembled and boy was I impressed. Back to the issue.
The stock was stripped using a generic furniture stripper and then the marks really began to show. I decided to use the steam method and soaked a clean wash cloth and placed the cloth over the marks. Using a steam iron on its highest setting, I placed the hot iron on the cloth until the steam stopped rising. Voila', the dents and dings are gone. I had to pass this simple tip along, for those like me who never tried it.

Flash,

I just used that method for the first time as well. It worked so well, I didn't even sand the stock. I just went at it with some bronze wool and it was ready for refinishing.

Wheelgunner

 

[Flash]

I never had poor results at this but had always sanded dimples and gouges to smooth the wood. I always heard of steaming dimples and dents but never really tried it, in part due to steering away from guns that required it. Well during a shopping trip, I saw a pre-warning 10/22 walnut on the rack that had its fair share of use with a good 95% of it showing in the wood. The butt plate had scars but the trigger guard and receiver were free from any scratches or dings. After a thorough disassembly, including the magazine(Bill was a genius by the way), I found this gun to be nothing short of an example of excellence. This is the first one I've ever completely disassembled and boy was I impressed. Back to the issue.
The stock was stripped using a generic furniture stripper and then the marks really began to show. I decided to use the steam method and soaked a clean wash cloth and placed the cloth over the marks. Using a steam iron on its highest setting, I placed the hot iron on the cloth until the steam stopped rising. Voila', the dents and dings are gone. I had to pass this simple tip along, for those like me who never tried it.

Flash,

I just used that method for the first time as well. It worked so well, I didn't even sand the stock. I just went at it with some bronze wool and it was ready for refinishing.

Wheelgunner

All I used afterwards was a scotch brite pad and linseed oil. I wish i had a "before" pic but there will be a pic posted once the oil coats are finished.

 

[Pinecone]

Guys, Just a quick "tip" on those dents that will "not" lift up with the above mentioned method, and sooner or later, if you refinish enough stocks, you will bump into this problem. (the dent is severely compressed) Take a good size can, like a metal Quaker Oats can with metal lid and drill a small hole in the lid to insert a small piece of metal tubing that you can "seal" the hole with, (a hydraulic tubing connector with threads works great) and then add about a 6 to 8 inch piece of flexible tubing to it. Put about 4 to 5 inches of water in the can and put it on a "heat" source like your kitchen stove top burner. When the water boils and a steady stream of "steam" comes out of the tubing, direct it right on the difficult dent. I usually tape a rag around the "dent" to absorb the steam/water that comes off the "dent" to prevent other parts of the stock from receiving "unwanted" moisture! That's it! Given enough steam, even the toughest dents will usually eventually rise...................Dick :idea: