stock refinishing

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wtf6316

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
1
i need my stock refinished. i put a camo tapes over it for this season. the tapes said for all finishes will not harm. i guess since my M77 is over 20 years old the finish wasnt as good as a new one. Any help? I know now i shoulnt have done it but i did a test strip and left it on for a while and it came off ok. there are just patches that came off.
 

41 mag fan

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 6, 2005
Messages
306
Location
omaha NE
I use citri strip. It will take off the old finish with the bad smell. After sand it down to about 400 grit. There are a lot of finishes out there but tru oil is one of the most popular. the directions are on the bottle. Take your time and it will turn out fine. Steve
 

RedLabel

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
175
Location
Northern Indiana
I second the Tru oil. Strip it first and sand. Be patient with an oil finish. I'm in the final stretch on a 10/22 stock. It's coming out nice! :D
 

rugerjunkie

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
1,976
Location
Kansas
I use Minwax spar urethane. One of the toughest outdoor finishes you can find in my opinion. Also easy to touch up and the stock is virtually waterproof after a few coats.
 

G2

Hunter
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
2,552
Location
UT/AZ
This might sound kinda crazy but I have used this stuff and worked great. It gets all the current finish loose you rub it around and even things out, let dry, light sanding , and a few coats of tung oil or tru oil. I think tru oil is tung oil with some driers added in to speed up the process. Tung oil is slower but IMO I think I like the final finish better.

anyway some good reading. Good luck.

http://www.formbys.com/products/refinisher.cfm

It works good moving Ruger's finish around.
 
A

Anonymous

I have finished several stocks and I too use the formbys to strip the old finish. Apply and let stand then remove the old finish with medium steel wool. Once the finish is removed sand wit 400 grit apply stain and then use the tru oil as it is easy and durable. A couple of tips:

Sand the stock wit the recoil pad attached to avoid rounding the edge of the stock and causing a poor fit. I use a wiping filler to fill the grain as walnut is a very grainy wood.

Don't put regular finish in the checkering as it will fill it in. I usually stain and then brush with an old tooth brush to remove any excess . Once the stain is dry I will usually thin the tru oil with some mineral spirits and apply one thin coat to the checkering to seal it again using a tooth brush and brush both ways in the checkering groves. You can then put the tru oil on the rest of the stock from the bottle. I usually put on about 6-8 thin coats letting each dry and buffing with very fine steel wool between coats. Just be sure to wipe the stock to remove any steel wool bits as well as dust.
 

wwb

Hunter
Joined
Nov 18, 2004
Messages
2,889
Location
wisconsin
G2":1cs8mcan said:
...... I think tru oil is tung oil with some driers added in to speed up the process. Tung oil is slower but IMO I think I like the final finish better.......

+1
 

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