SR9 First Clean

[THauch33]

For some reason, my searches are erroring out.
How thourough does my first clean need to be of my new SR9? Just a field strip, or more detailed?
Thanks for your help.

 

[axisofoil]

The better you clean it/lube it the first time, the better the gun will perform.

Plenty of people DON'T clean them before using them... and the guns work alright.

I just field-stripped it, sprayed some brake-cleaner in all the lower frame, followed with wd-40, then compressed air, and a bit of remoil.

Then thoroughly cleaned the barrel and recoil spring... don't forget the striker channel when you go about cleaning the slide. Beyond that kind of cleaning... you don't need to disassemble the fch or anything like that. You don't have years of caked-in light powder residue to clean out or anything. Just some gunk.

 

[jeffegg2]

I only did the field strip of my SR9c first time. Everything was fine.
I think the second time I pulled the stryker and cleaned it and the channel.

I have not cleaned the stryker since then.

 

[jhearne]

While axis-foil doesn't comment on any ill-effects of using Brake Cleaner on his SR9, please don't use brake cleaner on your SR9. Not all brake cleaners are safe for polymer frames and other plastics. While brake cleaner can melt certain 'solids', it won't turn your SR9 frame into a puddle of goo, it could cause discoloration. Better safe, than sorry IMHO. The SR9 only takes me a couple minutes to clean via field strip, Ruger did a good job of keeping it simple.

They make great firearm cleaners for good reason. They work pretty well. I use RemOil, spray and wipes. They aren't very pricey either. Hoppes is good stuff as well.

I didn't clean my SR9 for the first 1000 rounds, zero issues. However, I'm not the rule, most folks field strip and clean their guns after getting home following purchasing or before hitting the range. Most of what you need to do is simply field strip and remove most of the gunk that Ruger packs into the slide. Lightly oil the contact points, mainly give the internals a quick spritz with a spray-type oil. Use the wipes to handle gunk/dirt removal from open surfaces. An old toothbrush works well for nooks and crannies.

Occaisionally, it's a good idea to do a full detail strip (see my How-To's below in signature) and get it all clean.

 

[axisofoil]

please don't use brake cleaner on your SR9.[/b] Not all brake cleaners are safe for polymer frames and other plastics... it could cause discoloration.

They make great firearm cleaners for good reason. They work pretty well. I use RemOil, spray and wipes. They aren't very pricey either. Hoppes is good stuff as well.

That's true, the discoloration is possible with some cleaners... so let me clarify. Use Brakleen's chlorine-free brake cleaner if you choose to use the brake-cleaner route. It does not discolor the nylon used on the SR series (at least, it didn't on my SR40). I also use hoppes #9 and remoil liquid for cleaning, I just don't feel that it's nearly as good for cleaning out random machining dust/burrs and assembly lubes during the first-clean. I use rem-drilube instead of standard oils where I can... it's a little dusty for a carry-gun up here in prescott, az to use wet lubes.

 

[willypete]

I have learned my lesson when it comes to buying a new Ruger. Clean it...clean it first. You might be surprised what you find happening inside a new gun. Sorry, Ruger's are not perfect. Always easier with Ruger if they hear of a problem and you tell them you have never fired the gun yet.

 

[WillRuss]

I stripped my slide when I first got it home from the dealer and discovered a pile of grease in the striker pin channel. I cleaned it out with Eezox on several Q-Tips, then dried it with several clean ones. When I reassembled it, I "accidentally" forgot to reinstall the magazine disconnect, too.

Now the metal is dry-lubed with Eezox, the slide and frame rails are covered with Brian Enos' "Slide Glide", and it runs like a scalded monkey.