Thanks for the compliment, Randy. Got the frame stripped and taking it to the shop today. They can help me decide on whether to get it re-blued or Spartan Shied it.
A friend has a S&W model 14-3, 8 3/8" barrel. He brought it to the range for me to look at, had Scotch tape around the cylinder to keep the cylinder latch from etching the cylinder ring. Power Custom has an over sized latch to firmly lock the cylinder, but I don't think it stops the etching. Unavoidable wear.I'm still wondering why Ruger hasn't corrected the turn line on the cylinder. Drives me nuts! I know there's a pin modification solution, and also a polished cylinder and cylinder stop help… but I'd think a factory solution is about 45 years overdue!
Didn't mean to change the subject…Joey, good job on taking care of the cause, and effective!
When I was a boy, my Father had 2 Rugers, one an early 60's Single-Six and a '57 .357....I am now one year older than my Dad when he passed, I have quite a few Rugers, mostly OldModels and I love them for what they Are and Are Not.Thanks much, Nitro. Time and money cost Ford millions, a $2.00 part would have taken care of the exploding Pinto problem, but they were more concerned about their bottom line.
Another thing that drives me nuts about the BH is their variances in cylinder throat diameters. They can vary by 3-4 k, I was told the reason is they use a three milling drill set-up to bore throats. When 1 gets dull, they change just the 1, causing wide variances in diameter, and undersized throats.
I will shut up now.
When I was a boy, my Father had 2 Rugers, one an early 60's Single-Six and a '57 .357....I am now one year older than my Dad when he passed, I have quite a few Rugers, mostly OldModels and I love them for what they Are and Are Not.
I feel the same way, Nitro, else I would not be doing this. In my eyes it was broke and I fixed it, Contender, same as I would do to any piece of equipment I own.As noted,, "Time & Money."
And another way to look at things; "If it ain't broke, don't fix it unless you can do the same thing for cheaper!"
Thanks much, Contender.Looking good!
PM with questions sent.The perfected Ruger Blackhawk:
Frame and gripframe squared and fit
Cylinder gap reset to.002"
11° forcing cone cut and polish
11° crown cut and polish
Internals polished
Buy a new hammer might come in handy any way!I am putting ss gf, ejector shroud, hammer and trigger on a NM BH .357. The existing hammer has scratches on the left side. You could call them gouges. I did a search and didn't find a post on this. Has anyone else encountered this, and if so, how did you solve it? I can think of 2 solutions, file the hammer channel down, or mill down the thickness of the hammer a coupla' k's. Any suggestions? This is the worst of my Blackhawks,,, they all have some degree of this. Don't want to put a stainless hammer on this just to have it gouged....
You're giving away the gun? Count me in!Finally got the gf frame fitted. I have it boxed and ready to ship to Chig's Grips. While its gone, I am planning on bluing it myself using Mark Lee's Express Blue #1. Has anyone used this? I bought a barrel on the cheap to try it. I have it stripped and sanded, ready to go, just got to pick up a few more things. One can never have enough things.
When I am thru with the barrel, I plan on posting it for give away. Next stop, bluing. I will complete polishing of gf when I get it back.