I learned that at a young-er? age. Kinda like using a belt sander to smooth down a nice piece of walnut.....OH please, NO dremel !!!!!.......rotary is NOT for 'flats'![]()
Thanks, man. I can deal with good honest use wear on a revolver, or hell, any firearm for that matter. Holster wear, bench dings, limb brushes. I can't deal with preventable wear/damage. This revolver should never have left Ruger with this kinda damage in a few cockings. I may be a little harsh, maybe things loosened up during use. As I am not the original buyer, hard to say. But a little bit of filing shows a mountain of chatter in the hammer channel. A few minutes of TLC after milling would have taken care of this.Way better.
Did you measure the pin/hole clearance ? I'd wager that is where much of the issue is.I measured hammer/frame clearance on some of my other revolvers, kinda' interesting.
Ruger GP 100- .003, no scratches
S&W model 14- .0015, no scratches. This one is the tightest.
S&W 657- .005 No scratches
Ruger BH NM .45 Colt- .010, Scratches, about half as bad as the 357.
BH has at least .005 more hammer clearance as the models above, Even on a low end revolver, this could be improved on. And not that BH is a low end.
Problem is, I gotta' stay away from the firing pin, 3/32 is about as thick as I can go. Polished it out with 1000 grit paper wrapped around a 1/16" thick fine file, just barely cleared, Filed the channel down, deburred the top of the channel at the outside, put 2 .005 shims in, worked fine. The stainless hammer was about .008 thicker thane the original, so I had to work the channel down a bit more than for the original. All I have to do is take the base pin screw out, and will be ready for the finish. I hope they don't tell me the firing pin will have to come out. A major PITA........I keep and use a variety of flat stones. When I worked in tool and die shops, Stones were kept in kerosene. A thin , flat stone, fine grit would do wonders with that problem.
The pin hole clearance is about .005, about as tight as it can get.Did you measure the pin/hole clearance ? I'd wager that is where much of the issue is.
I'm still wondering why Ruger hasn't corrected the turn line on the cylinder. Drives me nuts! I know there's a pin modification solution, and also a polished cylinder and cylinder stop help… but I'd think a factory solution is about 45 years overdue!Thanks much, Contender. What I don't understand about this is how can they produce the GP100 with .003 clearance, works smooth, no scratches, but the BH has 3 plus times the clearance and not just scratches but gouges the hammer? Perhaps I am taking this a bit too seriously, but, jeez....
Time and Money.I'm still wondering why Ruger hasn't corrected the turn line on the cylinder. Drives me nuts! I know there's a pin modification solution, and also a polished cylinder and cylinder stop help… but I'd think a factory solution is about 45 years overdue!
Didn't mean to change the subject…Joey, good job on taking care of the cause, and effective!
More than likely. Although the longer pin should be almost a wash. I'm wondering if it causes any reliability issues.Time and Money.
Thanks much, Nitro. Time and money cost Ford millions, a $2.00 part would have taken care of the exploding Pinto problem, but they were more concerned about their bottom line.Time and Money.
I'm still wondering why Ruger hasn't corrected the turn line on the cylinder. Drives me nuts! I know there's a pin modification solution, and also a polished cylinder and cylinder stop help… but I'd think a factory solution is about 45 years overdue!
Didn't mean to change the subject…Joey, good job on taking care of the cause, and effective!