Sanding grips to fit

[Littlebluetruck]

I really love this SS NM 45 Colt Blackhawk. That said, the grips are a little big for my hands. When I hold it I can tell where the grips could be reduced for a better fit. Is there any real reason I should not sand away on the factory grips until they fit my hand better, and then seal them up an live happily ever after? They look to be about $35 on the Ruger website if I need to replace them.
Thanks,
Rich

 

[WAYNO]

I really love this SS NM 45 Colt Blackhawk. That said, the grips are a little big for my hands. When I hold it I can tell where the grips could be reduced for a better fit. Is there any real reason I should not sand away on the factory grips until they fit my hand better, and then seal them up an live happily ever after? They look to be about $35 on the Ruger website if I need to replace them.
Thanks,
Rich

As long as you're not sanding enough to affect the integrity of the grips, go for it.

I recently sanded some NM laminated grips. Applied a coat of Varathane, and they're good as new, with the sharp edges now removed. I sanded only a little, but I could have sanded a lot with no adverse effects.

 

[Salmoneye]

I find stock grips the exact opposite...

They are too small for me, and I have medium size hands compared to most Men...

 

[GunnyGene]

This is why wood is good. Just go slow. Easy to remove wood, not so easy to put it back on. :wink:

 

[G2]

Sand away

No need to "seal" or "varathane" them, there is nothing applied to "laminate" when there manufactured, there buffed with buffing compound/ buffing wheels.

Get the grips to a point where your happy with the fit (frame/hand) don't be in a hurry, go shoot the gun to get it all dialed in....

Then progress thru 600, 1000, 1500 this will leave a "matte",,,
then go onto 2000, 2500 to get a more factory look. It comes back fairly quick and easy.

I usually find one of my wife's 6 in one nail stick, it's a foam stick 3/4"x ~6"long, square with coarse and fine on 2 opposing sides and the other 2 sides have steps 1,2,3,4 on them,,, by the time you get to the final step it's all perty... :wink:
Cheap way to get all the grits you need to work a set of grip panels over.

 

[WAYNO]

No need to "seal" or "varathane" them, there is nothing applied to "laminate" when there manufactured, there buffed with buffing compound/ buffing wheels.

Interesting. Is there a chance that different batches or different makers or even different colors of these laminated grips receive a different treatment? I polished the sanded area to glass smoothness, but it would not even come close to matching the unsanded area. I had to coat it to make it even.

 

[Littlebluetruck]

Thanks everyone. I will give it a try and let you know how it goes.
Rich

 

[G2]

No need to "seal" or "varathane" them, there is nothing applied to "laminate" when there manufactured, there buffed with buffing compound/ buffing wheels.

Interesting. Is there a chance that different batches or different makers or even different colors of these laminated grips receive a different treatment? I polished the sanded area to glass smoothness, but it would not even come close to matching the unsanded area. I had to coat it to make it even.

I have even taken the the dull grey rough grips that came on the original Hunter and got them to slick right up.

Eagle Grips is the source that educated me on taking grips to 2000/2500.

There might be different batches but I have done ~ 20 sets with excellent results.

Recently I took the old funny blond colored rosewood, sanded them in to fit the grip frame just about perfect then used dark danish oil and sanded them to 2000 with the wet oil, let it just about dry and gave it a good rubbin, about 30 days later there good and dry. 454C/SBH
Also did the Grey Hunter grips on the 480R/SBH, only took them to 1500, they turned out great.

 

[jstanfield103]

I always sand mine. I have small hands. As you can see in this picture I took it down almost to the screw head. Feels and works great.

 

[SweetWilliam]

Recently I took the old funny blond colored rosewood, sanded them in to fit the grip frame just about perfect then used dark danish oil and sanded them to 2000 with the wet oil, let it just about dry and gave it a good rubbin, about 30 days later there good and dry. 454C/SBH
Also did the Grey Hunter grips on the 480R/SBH, only took them to 1500, they turned out great.

[/quote]

I've refinished rifle stocks before by stripping, sanding and then applying an oil finish. They all turned out nice.
But what is required to do a laminated stock or grips?
I'm asking because I have a Ruger American Target 17HMR that let's just say Ruger didn't spend much time on. Basically I would like to smooth it up a bit and maybe darken it.
Is their a finish that needs stripped off, because it doesn't really look like their is.
And stain and an oil finish won't hurt the glue holding the lamination together ,will it?

 

[GunnyGene]

Recently I took the old funny blond colored rosewood, sanded them in to fit the grip frame just about perfect then used dark danish oil and sanded them to 2000 with the wet oil, let it just about dry and gave it a good rubbin, about 30 days later there good and dry. 454C/SBH
Also did the Grey Hunter grips on the 480R/SBH, only took them to 1500, they turned out great.

I've refinished rifle stocks before by stripping, sanding and then applying an oil finish. They all turned out nice.
But what is required to do a laminated stock or grips?
I'm asking because I have a Ruger American Target 17HMR that let's just say Ruger didn't spend much time on. Basically I would like to smooth it up a bit and maybe darken it.
Is their a finish that needs stripped off, because it doesn't really look like their is.
And stain and an oil finish won't hurt the glue holding the lamination together ,will it?[/quote]

Be careful sanding. The veneer is usually very thin - 1/32" or so. Stain may not penetrate well, but that or a oil finish is unlikely to effect the glue holding it all together.