Safariland Speedloader Comp II

[NCMountains]

Just received my Comp 2's and they are pretty good. All in all what I expected.

 

[smoke-eater]

They'll serve you well. By far the best, most durable and easiest - to - use speedloader made, in my opinion.

Jeff

 

[Calthrop]

With all those references and endorsements it took you so much time to catch up to us. However I am very happy that you have. We need men of experience and who carry real world skill sets on this forum. Ya I'm a suck up.
Today is Friday the Thirteenth and the Fifth day of your stewardship of a (K)GP-100. Welcome to the Forum. Just some thoughts: Get a Brownellls' catalog, A-Zoom snap caps and look to the sharpness of the chamber mouths of your gun. The snap caps are for loading drills not so much for dry fire as I agree with a fellow called Iwogean that it can be a harmful habit. By the way Comp I speedloaders are great for SP's. Calthrop

 

[NCMountains]

Glad to be here. Buying the GP100 is probably the main reason I am here to get ideas and tips on this gun.

We use snap caps in drills at my agency. However, we use only semi's for duty carry and backup with the exception of S&W Ti .38 wheelgun which I really hate shooting. Too little of a gun for such a load in my book. Great rib puncher in last resort situations but they make us qualify with them all the way back to 25 yards which is a little ascenine in my book.

 

[Calthrop]

There are some tools that can make your life easier. One is the "popper". It is a kind of bent screwdriver. It help in popping the trigger group from the cylinder frame. Both can have sharp machined edges so an easy separation is nice. Some folks use a screwdriver for this job. Some folk get hurt. Another is a tool made to remove the cylinder from the ejector rod. It is a kind of split screwdriver tip. Both come for the Brownells'. The cylinder take down is a fine job and delicate. The ejector star and rod are a weak point in the SP and GP design. Get the tool and use your tooth brush. Brush under the star and the top of the cylinder to remover powder residue and crap.
Some folks do not like the Ruger issue. Shopping for after market sights is a guilty pleasure I allow myself.
In the field I began carrying a BearCat and a Single Six. That was in the days when a Citizen could camp and fish in the Gadsden Purchase without much hinderance. Now you cannot.

These days I carry a Glock 20 10mm because my family was set upon by a pack of ferrel dogs. No shots were fired fifteen years ago on a sunny afternoon in Northern Arizona. My inadequate training with my 3" 331 showed up clear as day. I still like the KGP's.

I do not like the Monogrip. What Ruger has in the two styles of the old type are what I have stored away in vacuum bags. I kid you not.

If you search you will get lots of posts to wade through. Some are real gems. Most are vague or refer to IBOK. IBOK is a guide for smoothing out the action of the gun. It is very helpful and informative.
Personally, I think working on trigger and hammer alignment is best left to the gunsmiths. I can smooth a burr. Ruger's come out of the factory pretty dirty and with rough spots. More later. Calthrop
P.S. I like the Safariland 6812 holster (believe) hi-ride with the hood with the hard pebble finish.

 

[mattsbox99]

I use the CompIIIs in USPSA competition, I reload so I made my own snap caps, but I caution that if you are prone to mixups, the AZooms are worth the $25 versus shooting your wall or worse.

I have a couple GPs, with thousands of rounds through them and zero issues whatsoever. I did replace the front sights with the Millet Orange Bar, its a 7 second switch that makes a world of difference. Check out Midway USA, they are about $11.

 

[NCMountains]

Got the HiViz kit on the way to replace front sight.