rust blue solution selection

[roofinspector]

I am working with a No.1 that has been rebarreled with a chrome moly blank. I would like to have rust blue on the barrel proper, rings, rib, and of course on the action as well.

Has anyone redone their no.1 in slow rust blue themselves? Could you share the brand of solution that worked well on the No.1 action and a CM barrel? It seems that some brands of solutions do not work very well with barrels with some chrome content.

Guess a reason for the question is that I have friends that had their no.1's slow rust blued, and in bright light, the finish is streaky or blotchy. Perhaps just one of those things, but it seems appropriate to match the solution to the barrel steel type for best results.



Thanks,

 

[TBear77]

There's a very good post in the Gunsmithing section with lots of info on how to rust blue.

Ted

 

[roofinspector]

Ted,

Thanks for the reference in the gunsmithing section. I went that route some time ago thinking the detergent would be a plus. At each carding, I had some streaking along the bore line axis. I suspect either an application issue on my part or an incompatibility? with the steel alloy in the barrel; perhaps the chrome content or relative hardness; just a guess. An old gunsmith here tells me I need a solution with more bite.

I am looking at other solutions offered off the shelf, but at 40+ dollars a bottle, I thought I might ask a little first.

I read that a lot of regulars from a specific No.1 forum are here, did not know which forum they were talking about, but thought I would see what they could tell me from their first hand experience on an after market barrel application.

I am putting together a 17 bumble bee, chrome moly barrel, Talley vertical rings, Dakota rib, NECG sights, ebony tips/cap, and new wood on my old No.1S action that was in 218 bee. I see a lot of customs done in rust blue, I have always thought it was an handsome finish.

 

[TBear77]

Process of elimination of possible causes:

1. I would guess that if the problem was an alloy issue the streaking wouldn't be oriented along the bore line axis. It would probably result in more of a random pattern.

2. Machineing operations that might cause work hardening typically run circumferentally around the barrel. So I'd expect streaks to also run circumferentally if there was a relative hardness issue.

3. Before trying the expensive stuff, I'd try applying the rust solution around the circumfrence of the barrel (instead of the usual application along the bore line axis). If you are still getting streaking along the bore line axis, then the streaking isn't an application/technique issue.

Hope this helps,
Ted

 

[RonS]

I love rust blue. I used Herters Belgian Blue on a 96 Swede years ago. Had no streaking issues, but just the application took several hours, I gave it the traditional 21 coats just so I could say that I did. I blued the barrel, action and bolt, then repolished the bolt body, keeping the bolt handle blue. Bottom metal also, of course. I think that was probably a pretty good selection of steels and material conditions.

You degreased your steel wool completely, right? I think we used hot Oakite cleaner.

 

[roofinspector]

I appreciate greatly the responses that were posted to my inquiry. Thanks for taking some time to comment.

When I was having issues with my own specific rust blue application, that is when, I took time to look at friends' professionally rust blued rifles more carefully. Some barrels had anomolies in the finish, and in comparing to my own instance of attempt, I had some similarities.

I tried to be very clean with the application, degreased everything to include the carding material; stroked the solution on lightly, trying not to overlap down the barrel as per the instructions. Used acetone, and boiling distilled water in preface to application. I never could get it to look alike everywhere for some reason, like I say, perhaps somewhere in my technique or perhaps an incompatibility of materials; just no idea.

I have looked at trying the old Herters solution, or the Pilkington's solution as a new possiblity for my project. Probably will try one of those in the coming days once the barrel is prepped again.

Glad somebody does their own work these days. There is some satisfaction in doing it yourself, plus the savings to go again on another new project. Just sometimes the process has some frustration and extended time line.................

As most know, a rust blue application by a professional costs a pretty fair amount of money, mostly in labor. Always wanted to learn how to do that slow rust blue application, so will keep after it.

 

[Robt. Harris]

roofinspector,

If you'd e:mail me at:

[email protected]

I have an Angier formula and some process info that will likely do the trick for you. Have done one Ruger No. 1 with it, which came out very nicely......and it should work for you too.

Robert