Ruger Single Six 22LR cylinder alignment

[bcbz71]

Hello,

I've been lurking this forum for awhile and even bought a few guns here, but now I have a question/issue.

I recently got a used new model Single Six with 6" barrel that is amazingly accurate, but the timing seems off. When loading, the cylinder is not dead-center of the loading gate, so loading is a bit awkward. The same with ejecting the spent cartridge...the plunger doesn't go in perfectly...you have to rotate the cylinder a bit.

It cocks and rotates, but it could stand to rotate just a hair more for it to lock perfectly in the cylinder groove. I also got a bit of blowback from a round or two this weekend which leads me to believe the cylinder is not lining up perfectly with the barrel.

I'm pretty handy, but have never done any 'smithing, so is this something that I should try and correct myself, or should I send it into to Ruger? Keep in mind these revolvers are cheap (under $300), so I don't want to put $300 worth of 'smithing into it... That would be a wash!!

 

[contender]

Do not dispair. There is nothing wrong with your Ruger. It's been timed that way for almost 55 years. Only in recent years did Ruger get around to redoing the timing of the action to where the chambers align when the loading gate is opened. I'm not even sure if they've gotten around to doing the Single-Six yet either. Just a few newer centerfires.
Most of us just automatically learn to open the gate, and roll the cylinder a little in the palm of our hand and then eject the spent cases.
The gun is accurate for you,,, I'd just enjoy it!

 

[rugerguy]

well said Contender,,,,,been doing it that way since they came out, not rocket science, just the way it works, get used to it...you want it different, then pays your money to the "custom" guys and they will make it anyway you think they want you to have it............ :roll:
( we call it gimmick............) that stuff sells............

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Um, guys, I think he said it's a New Model . . .

On the New Model Single-Six, if you rotate the cylinder until it "clicks" you will, indeed, not be able to access the chamber.

The trick is to pay attention to where the chamber "hole" is, and stop rotating the cylinder when the chamber is properly oriented for access. On the Old Models, you rotated until it went "click" and then backed up to the stop for alignment. Not sure why the later models couldn't have been that way.

Welcome to RugerForum.

 

[flatgate]

It cocks and rotates, but it could stand to rotate just a hair more for it to lock perfectly in the cylinder groove. I also got a bit of blowback from a round or two this weekend which leads me to believe the cylinder is not lining up perfectly with the barrel.

I a bit confused by your description above. "just a hair more for it to lock perfectly in the cyinder groove". I take that to mean that the hammer comes to the full cock position a wee bit before the cylinder latch engages the "bolt cuts" on the outer surface of the cylinder. If so, then you have late carry up timing. One cure is to simply cock the gun vigorously and the rotational inertia of the cylinder will "carry" it to the "lockup" position. The real fix is to "speed" up the carry up timing by adjusting the length of the second tooth of the pawl. That's a bit tricky for the homeboy but within reason, IMHO.


Al-8(1):

Not sure why the later models couldn't have been that way.

'cause WBR didn't want it that way!!!



flatgate

 

[bcbz71]

I take that to mean that the hammer comes to the full cock position a wee bit before the cylinder latch engages the "bolt cuts" on the outer surface of the cylinder. If so, then you have late carry up timing. One cure is to simply cock the gun vigorously and the rotational inertia of the cylinder will "carry" it to the "lockup" position. The real fix is to "speed" up the carry up timing by adjusting the length of the second tooth of the pawl. That's a bit tricky for the homeboy but within reason, IMHO.

flatgate

Thanks to all for the responses. Yes it it a New Model.

I think it needs to "speed up the carry up timing" so the lug in the bottom of the frame completely engages with the squareish groove in the cylinder. It stops just shy of complete engagement , but when you manually turn it just a bit, it locks up fine.

In my mind, I imagine a lever is not traveling far enough to push the cylinder around that extra little bit.

So, what is the fix? Can I take it apart and it will be obvious? Or will I take it apart and have a yard sale of springs, levers and bushings?

 

[rugerguy]

Hello,


I recently got a used new model Single Six with 6" barrel that is amazingly accurate, but the timing seems off. When loading, the cylinder is not dead-center of the loading gate, so loading is a bit awkward. The same with ejecting the spent cartridge...the plunger doesn't go in perfectly...you have to rotate the cylinder a bit.

!

this is the part we were referring too, old model or new model, one has to "adjust" accordingly, thats the way ( nature of the beast)...yeppur, a little wiggle and they go in as well as come out.......... :wink:

yes, the 'other' issue is a timing one, needs to be looked into,many will work as Flatgate said, with "normal' or even a bit heavy ( hard) cocking. If one goes real slow , they may NOT 'come up'......

 

[flatgate]

The culprit is the lower tooth on the pawl. A cheap fix would be to purchase a new pawl and see if that will cure the ailment.

Disassembly and reassembly of the New Model is described quite well in your Owner's Manual. What? Don't have one? Ruger has one for you... www.ruger.com



flatgate

 

[Ale-8(1)]

This one, as a matter of fact . . .

http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/Instr ... als/11.pdf

 

[bcbz71]

I've printed out the manual and ordered a new pawl ($8.50 shipped from Ruger).

The manual has step-by-step instructions for dismantling the gun, but I would appreciate any added insight in changing a pawl. Any "gotchas" to look out for?

 

[flatgate]

The pawl is mounted to the hammer. The only "gotcha's" are the pawl spring and plunger and the cylinder latch spring and plunger.

One suggestion I'll make is to go slow and really look at what's involved in the reassembly process. Often I'll leave out several parts and just concentrate on "part" of the process before trying to assemble everything at once, which, of course, is the goal.

Watch how the trigger spring needs to be on the little shelf at the rear of the New Model's trigger. Watch how the cylinder latch spring and plunger sets in the grip frame and then needs to be aligned just right when you mate the grip frame to the cylinder frame. Ditto for the pawl spring and plunger.

A couple of brass "drift" punches, one the size of the hammer pivot pin and one the size of the trigger/cylinder latch pivot pin are essential tools on my bench.

Feel free to ask the Boys here for suggestions, as well.



flatgate

PS Surf to Real Guns and scroll down to find the articles on the Ruger Bisley. Lots of good images that will be helpful with your project.
http://www.realguns.com/archives/projects_index.html

 

[DGW1949]

When re-assembling any Ruger SA, be very carefull not to pinch the pawl-spring, which is the small coil spring protruding from the back-edge of the frame itself. Look to the left of the hammer after ya pull the grip-frame off...it'll be sticking out of it's hole, waiting to either fall out, or get squashed.
And if you take it out, be certain to re-install it with the plunger pointing inward.

DGW

 

[jimbo1096]

And don't put the pawl spring and plunger is backward . That can be a real booger to get back out. Especially with failing eyes and fat fingers. Plunger in the hole first with the end of the spring sticking out of the cyl frame. DAMHIK.
It's not hard to disassemble and reassemble the Blackhawk. Just follow instructions and take your time. That gripframe mating sequence can be aggravating until you get the hang of it!

 

[bcbz71]

The new pawl fixed the timing problem, but despite some GREAT advice on this board, I still fouled up the pawl spring during reassembly!!

Instead of putting the pawl spring in the milled location ABOVE the left screw hole, I put it IN the screw hole and tightened the screw on top of it. It didn't seem right at the time, but I was a bit distracted by my 9 y/o who discovered he could surf GunBroker on his Nintendo DSi.

Luckily I was able to extract it out of the screw hole and put it in the proper location and the gun works great, but I am still going to order a new pawl spring.

All in all, I would rate it a 5 on a difficulty scale of 10.

btw...the new pawl from Ruger was very roughly manufactured compared to the one that came out of the gun.