Ruger grips

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Joined
Feb 6, 2024
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Utah
When I use a straight edge to hold against the grip frame, I guess the spacer should be actually touching the straight edge then, correct ? That way the grip itself will be making contact with frame & be flush with the spacer at same time ?
touching or a red personal area hair under. (if you don't know what that means, PM me :LOL: :LOL: )
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
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25,683
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Lake Lure NC USA
If you use a straight edge,, to check the length of the spacer, you want to spacer to be just under the edge of the straight edge as you slide it along the frame. That way,, it'll snug up, yet, not over stress anything. And it'll allow a good fit.
 

Star43

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 7, 2023
Messages
861
Location
California
I bought a couple of nail files. They are emory boards as they say on package. A couple of the regular kind and also the black finer type. I think that will work on the next 2 that I try. It makes sense to come just under the straight edge because where the grip cracked, sure I put the glue on and used the squeeze grip, but the wood bulges out slightly. So coming just under the straight edge will make room needed for the slight bulging of the wood panel. It makes sense to use the spacer and I can see the extra labor needed to make them all line up right. Think of it, if the people who are making the grips for Ruger can't make them all line up / fit right now without a spacer, the use of a spacer would make it even more complicated. I can see where this spacer makes them all sort of like custom fit guns. I also can see where you mean, that the more you make the better and easier it is. I know you know all of this, but wanted to let you I appreciate the help.
 

Star43

Blackhawk
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Aug 7, 2023
Messages
861
Location
California
I tried the nail file, well at least the sandpaper like Emory board stick...the spacer just sort of looked & laughed at that. I went at it quite a bit, and when I went to check it with the straight edge, it is still slightly Above the straight edge. I will look for a metal file and just use that. The Only reason I was messing around with the fine sandpaper and the Emory boards in the first place, was I thought only a small amount had to be removed and I thought that would work. These aren't working though, so I will try something else.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
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Sep 18, 2002
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25,683
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Lake Lure NC USA
Yes,,, you only need to remove a small amount. I ruined a few using my grinder because it can & will take off a lot, very quickly. But the hardness of the spacer is also what helps a lot. Keep at it,, you'll get it.
 

Star43

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 7, 2023
Messages
861
Location
California
I am....it's going to work as I see progress. It seems maybe anyway that once you get through that initial shiny surface, I goes a little faster?? Maybe I'm all wet, but I see it happening. I can see and agree that the hardness of the spacer is a good thing in the long run. Thanks,. 👍👍
 

mhblaw

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
944
Location
North Dakota
Yes, Casey was a real champ to include a spacer with his custom grips. I think I have at least a dozen of his grips, several on Bowen customs.
 

Star43

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 7, 2023
Messages
861
Location
California
Yes,,, you only need to remove a small amount. I ruined a few using my grinder because it can & will take off a lot, very quickly. But the hardness of the spacer is also what helps a lot. Keep at it,, you'll get it.
Well I put them on tonight. On the first attempt, I could see that I needed to take off a little bit more. Then I tried again and I thought it was going to be work ok, and then when I was done tightening it, the hammer didn't really want to come back. It was not easy to pull back at all. It didn't feel right. I took off the grips and filed off a little bit more. I put them back on and it screwed back together ok. The hammer pulls back more smoothly but it is not like it used to be. The grips are tight and they look good. I just don't know if I should sand it down more, or leave it as is? Do you think the spacer is rubbing against the spring in the grip frame ? It looks like there is clearance there. Is this normal, and/or will it hurt the gun to use it with this slightly harder hammer pull ?? Part of me says to file it more, but the grips look fine as is and I remember it said that if too much is taken off, then the spacer won't work at all ?? Did this happen to you at all ?? Just wondering.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
25,683
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Lake Lure NC USA
Sometimes,, the spacers, if their diameter is larger,, can rub against the mainspring. I always try & buy the smallest diameter spacers I can. But,,if the edge of the spacer is rubbing against the mainspring,, you can remove one grip panel,, (the socket side,) slip the spacer over the already inserted screw shaft, tilt the gun, grip frame etc to where the spacer is positioned towards the grip frame & away from the mainspring. Holding it in that position, assemble the grips. When tightened,, it shouldn't shift & touch the mainspring.
I have cut a few spacers down too much. I had a few go .010 (.4990) and I chose to not use them on any guns that measured closer to .5000. I have had a few frames that were polished below the .5000 enough to where I have used the shorter spacers.
 

Star43

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 7, 2023
Messages
861
Location
California
I think I inadvertently did that last night, to get it to be able to move. After reading your post this morning, I took off the grips again, filed just a bit more and put the grips on sort of upside down with the screw inserted as you said. I slipped the spacer on and tightened it up with the gun upside down trying to keep the spacer down away from the mainspring as best as I could. I tightened it and it cocks back easier now. I will compare it to my others to see if the cocking seems ok. I will make a point to go back and see if I can get some spacers with a smaller OD, to make it a lot easier next time...oh, by the way, when I screwed it down, I made sure to tighten it like a gorilla 🦍. Well maybe , not so much ......🙂🙂👍
 

Bonasa

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 13, 2024
Messages
17
Location
Wanakah, NY
I have 2 pairs of XR3-RED "rosewood laminate" grips. One is new in the package and really light colored. The other came off a Blackhawk that I purchased used, it is very dark and has the new "old style" medallions. I'm about to list a bunch of my spare stuff. Here's a pic of these-View attachment 43582

Since you're liquidating grips, would you by any chance happen to have a pair of XR3 walnut? There are for the pre-1963 Ruger single actions; I have a 1957 Single Six. Thanks in advance.
 

Bonasa

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 13, 2024
Messages
17
Location
Wanakah, NY
"Ace is the Place for the Helpful Hardware Maan" Just left there with my spacers. I brought my grips and the screw & my phone with the photo from Contender....The old statement about a picture being worth a thousand words rang true. I even bought a sheet of fine black sand paper to bring it down a bit.....I think you said it needs a little to take off...about a 16th of an inch or less? Anyway got that and bought 5 spacers for 30 cents each. Between that an the sandpaper, it's just a little over a $2 fix !!! I bought a couple extra in case I screw up and sand too much off !! 🙂
Ace is the closest thing remaining today to the old Main Street hardware store that every town had 50 years ago. They have survived in the era of Home Depot and Lowes by staffing themselves with people who generally know hardware.
 
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