Ruger .308 Predator Ejector plunger removal

Help Support Ruger Forum:

Joined
Sep 25, 2022
Messages
58
Location
Northern Virginia
go to 8.20 on the video

Yes thank you for taking the time. This was the only video I found weeks ago. One thing was the same, the extractor ball and spring launched and hit me squarely in the face! I can depress the ejector, I can see through the bolt, but I cannot figure out how it is held in place. One thing I do not want to do is blindly hammer on stuff without knowing how it was designed to get it out. I have watched this video a dozen times. Still waiting to hear from Ruger. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:

My Toy

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
56
Location
People's Republic of Maryland
Also, tell us WHY this is deemed necessary.
You need to remove the ejector plunger if you want to accurately check the headspace (using headspace gauges) of your rifles chamber with it's bolt. Every rifle I own even ones I purchased new I check the headspace. Why may you ask would you check the H.S. on a factory new rifle -- Over the last dozen years I've have sent 3 rifles back to manufactures ( namely Remington and Ruger) that would swallow a No-Go gauge.
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2022
Messages
58
Location
Northern Virginia
You need to remove the ejector plunger if you want to accurately check the headspace (using headspace gauges) of your rifles chamber with it's bolt. Every rifle I own even ones I purchased new I check the headspace. Why may you ask would you check the H.S. on a factory new rifle -- Over the last dozen years I've have sent 3 rifles back to manufactures ( namely Remington and Ruger) that would swallow a No-Go gauge.
Dude, you are preaching to the choir—-thank you. I first have to first remove the freakin ejector. I have been following a number of content providers with this in mind, eric cortina, the real gunsmith and many others. If cases are not sized in this manner, they will stretch a lot more and faster. Thanks for responding but how is the ejector removed!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 25, 2022
Messages
58
Location
Northern Virginia
I went to a gunsmith. A 1/16" punch is all that was needed to push the "roll pin" out of the way to free the ejector plunger. Easy when you see what is involved and how it is done. Now I know what a roll pin looks like, it is not solid and what I was expecting was a solid pin, not something hollow! Thanks to everyone!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 25, 2022
Messages
58
Location
Northern Virginia
You need to remove the ejector plunger if you want to accurately check the headspace (using headspace gauges) of your rifles chamber with it's bolt. Every rifle I own even ones I purchased new I check the headspace. Why may you ask would you check the H.S. on a factory new rifle -- Over the last dozen years I've have sent 3 rifles back to manufactures ( namely Remington and Ruger) that would swallow a No-Go gauge.
MT-I removed the ejector and the extractor to do this exercise.
The SAAMI headspace range is 1.4636-1.4736. Most of the fired brass i have measured using a Hornady headspace comp set and a 500-196-30 are right around 1.4575".
These fit loosely in the chamber. Anything at 1.4600 or better produces more firm contact when closing the bolt.

Is there something about .223 and bolt action rifle chambers? New brass or fired brass is not producing the results i expect to dial in this chamber.
 
Top