The simple answer is, yes. The only thing you'll need is a barrel.
The easiest thing would be to simply go with the same exact profile, regardless of what maker you use. The extractor is the same and the forearm shouldn't need to be altered.
The other alternative would be to use a factory "V" barrel in a smaller caliber, say 223 and have the barrel re-bored. The cost would be about the same overall and at least that way you would have "Ruger" marking on the barrel.
The down side is for the same cost you can probabl buy a decent barrel from a top end maker.
To be honest you would have less in a factory 6mm Remngton "V" than the re-barreled rifle and it will do anything a 243 will do, plus hold it's value better than a custom rifle.
I have both, the 1980-1983 243 "V" and a "V" in 6mm Remington of the same approxinate age and tend to shoot the 6mm more than the 243.
But, if you MUST have a 243 you certaily can make one.
Since Ruger doesn't offer either 243 or 6mm any more I don't have much choice. Buy one they offer and than make the change. Reboring is something I didn't think of, thanks. So, no changes are needed other than the barrel change? Nice! Just buy what they offer and change the barrel. The reason I picked 25-06 is that it is closer to the size I want and I didn't know if I would have to change the extractor or what.
Yes. In reading your post I mut note that while the 6mm "V" is now discontinued it was cataloged for well over 20 years. All the adds and the high pricess saying how rare they are is hype.
I bought two 6mm Remington #1 "V"s on the last year. A pristine one comlete with 500 rounds of new brass cost me $750. I then ran across a early 1970s red pad 6mm "V" in a Pawn Shop with really pretty wood for, $500 cash out the door.
You'll notice that all the 6mm "V"s that guys want $1000 - $1200 for are still setting, unsold.
As for barrel makers. Ruger will not sell you a barrel other than what a rifle was originally chambered for and they require it be sent to the factory to be re-barreled.
Take off barrels used to show up on e-bay all the time but of course no longer do so.
I have bought some of GunBroker and bid on others. Caliber and configuration along with age tend to dictate price.
As far as after market barrels. There are lots of makers. I haven't used all of them. I tend to use Douglas and Shilen because both with turn the barrel to match the factory Ruger barrel profiles, thus no stock work is required.
I have used Hart, Krieger and a few other top end customs. The tend t be spendy and run about $350 for a bare barrel. By the time you are done you can have a lot in one.
The haven't shot any better that I can see. The issues with #1s are the same as long as it doesn't have a BAD barrel.
There are only 5 different extractors for the #1 and therefor if you want to minimize cost and fitting just get on like the 25-06 or the 22-250 that have the standard 30-06 base diameter.
The others are for small rifles in the 223 size, then the standard rifle 30-06, then belted Mags and finally big rimmed cases ala the 45-70. The 218 Bee as a extractor specific to that caliber.
I have several "V"s in non standard/wildcat calibers that started out just like your project. Most started life as factory 22-250 #1 "V"s. It is certainly a doable project.
If you want a 243 caliber but don't have to have a .243 Winchester I personally would shop for a while and see if you could come up with a 6mm Remington. In the end it will probably be cheaper and certainly hold it's value better. The ones I have shoot very well for longe range varmints and coyote rifles.
you guys have given me a lot to think about. Might need to rethink the 243 idea and would it be worth the money. Could possibly be happy with a 25-06. From the web searches on barrels I've done the barrel would be rather expensive, if I still had to have the 243.
The down side to the 25-06 is that it is more a dual purpose caliber, varmints/deer than a true varmint caliber.
It doesn't drive light bullets any faster than a 257 Roberts and the recoil level tends to get oppressive after a while if you are really set up and shooting a few hundred in a day. It works mu8ch better for a rock chuck, coyote rifle than a flat out prarie dog rifle.
Nothing wrong with it. But the recoil level is high enough it can get uncomfortable.
jimC2, you wouldn't think it but that vert small bullet diameter difference between the two calibers means alot in terminal ballistics. I have used all the 25 caliber rounds on game (except for the 257 Weatherby & the 25/35), especially the 250-3000 & the 25/06. The 25/06 was my first rifle - took many elk with it before the experts told me I was under gunned.
I've seen so many examples of poor performance of the .243 that we've nick named it the 243 Woundmaster.
Regardless, any of the 25 caliber rounds will give you better performance than the 243 IMHO.
Just my 2 cents.
Sorry about that Quarterbore but I'm going for softer recoil and besides I have a bunch of 243 Win ammo. Like I said before, target shooting almost 100%. Can sit and shoot all day with the easy recoil, if I can afford it.
Jim: Here would be my question. How much 243 ammo do you have and what is the actuall dollar value of the ammo??? Do you have 500 rounds? 1000 rounds? 10,000 rounds? Unlimited access to unlimited ammo?
AT some point you are going to reach the place where the "VALUE" of the ammo you have on hand, or the compenents, if you are a reloader will be exhausted. Have you actually figured that dollar value of the ammo in question?
It's sort of a standing joke within the family and friends about me building MANY wildcat or custom #1s based on the fact that I had scored a bunch of ammo for something at a gun sale or at aucton. The caviate is that is HAS to be something I don't already have a rifle chambered in.
About 30 years ago I got a heck of a deal on factory .17 Remington ammo at a small Gun Show. I was tickled to get the stuff for $4 a box compared to the factory price of $17 or so. I bought all the guy had, 28 boxes. Then it sat here for a few years. One day while shooting a 22-250 by myself, I realized the perfect rifle might be the .17 Remington due to the lack of recoil. Besides I had hundreds of factory rounds on hand.
Now the smart thing to do would have been to just buy a Remington 700 but of cpourse I HAD to have a #1.
So I bought a #1 in .223 so I wouldn't have to change the extractor. Then I ordered a Custom Match grade stainless Shilen .17 Remington chambered barrel and had Shilen chamber it, cut the threads and extractor and profile to match the factory profile. I took it all, including a 12X Leupold and a Canjar Single Set trigger to my smith and a few months later I had a really cool .17 Remington #1. I does everyuthing I wanted. It shoots well under MOA, there is zero recoil and you don't need a spotter as you can see your bullets hit in the 12x scope.
It didn't take me long to shoot up all that cheap .17 caliber ammo, 500 rounds or so. Heck it only cost me $100 bucks or so. I saved at least $500. Of course I spent over $2000 on a custon #1 in order to shoot that CHEAP FACTORY AMMO.
Now if I had only done it that one time it might make some sense but I've done nearly the same thing because I found cheap, 222 Remington Mag ammo, cheap .225 Winchester ammo etc. The list is long. In every case the ammo was soon gone and I had a rifle that did or did not do something a factory round and rifle wouldn't have done.
Now I still own the .17 Remington and the round count is over 5000 rounds and I will rebarrel it, even at age 60. I really like it. I still have the 222 Mag but shoot it less than several #1s in .223. Most of the others have been sold or re-barreled again to something else over the years.
SAVINGS, because you have a bunch of something is seldom a good reason for build a custom rifle or going to the time and exspense of doing so. On the other hand if the .243 is YOUR .17 Remington, a caliber you like and want to shoot then by all meens build one. That's what life is all about. Others of us have ourt own "FAVORITES" and all the reasons in the world to justify their use and ownership. However, the bottom line is it's your rifle and your reasons and only YOU can determine if they are valid and justify the additional exspense.
the very best
Ross W Thomas
Great Basin Ranch
Owyhee County, ID
As an aside, while I don't shoot the "V" #1 in 243 much due to value, I do have several others including 2 non prefixes and a very early 130 serial # "B" that I shoot a lot for long distance varmints and coyotes and the occassional deer. I haven't seen a "wounding" problem as long as a well constructed bullet is used and shot placement is correct.
That said I still prefer a 257 Roberts for deer. That has more to do with it being what I started with 50 years ago, than anything else, I suspect. ;-)
I liked your post, picketpin. The first centerfire rifle I shot was the 243 Win. I liked it then and I still like it over 50 years later. Yes, I do have a lot of 243 ammo. I also have three other rifles that use it. This barrel change makes sense to me because I don't need to buy more ammo for just this gun. It will be another way to shoot my favorite caliber. I even have a AR type rifle that shoots it.
Really, all in all, a No.1 is a No.1. The same basic action, different barrel with its accessories, and the forearm to match said barrel. With that said, preowned no.1's are pretty prevalent now, and priced at about half of new factory price.
The 243 Winchester case is a 0.473" head for the ejector/extractor fitment, so a 22/250, 243, 6mm, 25-06, 270 etc, etc all would work for the 243 as is.
If one ran across a no.1 in another smaller or larger caliber, the factory ejector/extractor is less than 10 bucks and is easily changed out. Preowned forearms and barrels show up on the gunsites, although most are hunting style rather than varmint style barrels.
If you can stand the No.1v configuration, then a factory taper is available from most barrel makers(in any length really), or one could consider a 5.5 taper Shilen will fit pretty close in the No.1V forearm already, and you have the option of a 26" barrel length. Only 26" in the factory 1v is/was the 220 swift, the others as far as I know were 24".
I have learned to do my own work in rebarreling, so I change barrels according to my whim of the day, I work cheap for me, so my time is not even figured in the cost................never has, too much fun doing the work really. One of the true beauties about the no.1 is its flexibility as to caliber and cosmetics.
A named maker stainless 243 bore blank is around 200-220 dollars, while the select match are about 20-30 more. Most smiths that do no.1's will rebarrel for 200-250, which may or may not include the drill/tap of the barrel for bases. As you know, the bases and ejector/extractor machining has to be timed, thus extra costs with some smiths.
If you decide to peruse the used No.1's, just keep in mind the forearm is probably key(barrel channel to some), as well as basic condition of the action/wood. Barrels can be changed at a flip of the wrist for those with the equipment to do so. I am more simplistic on my No.1's, change the barrel out to a good aftermarket barrel maker, make it fit the forearm, and it is good to go. If you ever clean a custom aftermarket stainless barrel compared to a factory one, you will see the ease at which they clean up.
Looks like perhaps you have a 1v in 25/06 now that might be considered for update to 243, any gunsmith worth his salt can do that in his sleep. You might price that out locally there just to see how it would go for you.
I bet you are right on the new 20, must be showing my tenure................. ..wish more 1v's had 26" of barrel..I got exposed to the world of custom no.1's years ago and haven't come out to look at the new stuff for quite a while. I figured one could always make what one wanted with a little gumption on their part; as most know, nameplates and supposed rariety does not do it for me; everyone has their own thing; and glad of it.
No new fangled 20's here yet; not even a barrel blank. My exurberance for wildcats; oddities, etc keeps me out of the new factory offerings. The preowned no.1 doner market is just too inviting right now, prices are down.
Anyway, a 243 with a varmint taper barrel is a simplistic thing to do or have done; and I bet is quite enjoyable in that weight. Fairly mild to shoot, a bit milder than than the 25-06, the 243 has lots of good bullets for any occasion, and brass is everywhere in one form or another.
Sounds like a neat project anyway you go.......................
After doing some internet searching I came up with another question or two. Can any 1V be converted to any caliber with a barrel and extractor change? Sounds like that is too easy, gotta be a catch.
Went back and read roofinspector's post again and I think he answered my question. Let me know if I'm wrong, but any caliber 1V can be converted to another with a barrel and extractor change. If I've got it right, that makes it easy. Maybe not real cheap, but cheaper than finding a 25-06 only.
A no.1 action is a no.1 action. The ejector/extractor part is unique to case head size. That is one of the nice things about the no.1 action, ease of change of caliber within the action proper. The No.1 comes in other configurations other than the 1v, so keep in mind the forend type you would like, the extractor is 10 bucks for whatever case type.
You have to kinda use your head a little on what you start with, and what you want to end up with. Barrels vary in diameter, and the forearm is inletted accordingly.
A specific example perhaps is that you bought a completely factory 223 no.1v at a good price, you want a 243 no.1v..........order a 0.473" ejector, order a No.1V tapered custom barrel blank, put the barrel on(shank, thread,chamber,cut ejector slot, headspace/gapspace), drill tap for bases.......blue if necessary. Again the stainless carries about a 60 dollar surcharge over chrome moly, mainly for the material used. Some barrel makers do not lap their CM barrels(extra cost option), most do with stainless..............ask your barrel vendor if you need that specific info.
As mentioned, custom barrel blanks are available, just like custom wood, or even custom quarter rib and sights............but $ unless you can do some/all of the work yourself.
Likewise if you want the quarter rib or a dual base system......or even a one custom piece, you can get a lot of pictures with no.1 parts.
I had a friend that converted a 375 H&H to a full custom in 257 Roberts, he kept the old 375 barrel and AH forend. We found that the 375 H&H AH forend would fit his No.1V in 22/250, so it is now a "AH varmint". Looked pretty good really, it is the only I have seen so configured, he liked it, so that was all that counted.
Do a little homework on the no.1 configurations available, what you want to do(a plan), what you want to spend, and whom you wish to do the update. Lots of fun......................but a plan will cut costs if that matters.
Roof: I bought a Alex Henry forearm off e-bay some years ago. I got it cheap but when it showed up it was for a "H" barrel contour.
Playing around one day I stuck it on a 220 Swift "V" by golly it worked/fit.
Then I miked it and figured out the factory barrel band also fit, so there are at least 2 "VH" rifles floating around.
Jim: Good luck, go for it. I can't add anything to Roof's info other than I have found that most custom barrel guys offer 5 to 7 different contours as standard. The only two I have found that will do the factory Ruger #1 conturs (exactly) without additional/alteration charges are Shilen and Douglas.