Ethang said:
Dont post this without walking us through the process.....
I have been meaning to refinish my Rossi 45 Colt. This summer might be the time.
First off, thanks for the compliments. Much appreciated.
The process isn't really that hard. I've built a number of flintlock rifles (some pics have been posted here over the past couple years) and I approached the final finish in the same way.
First, took the wood off the rifle. Butt stock was easy. Forestock is a little more involved since the magazine tube has to come off but it's not that difficult. While out, I cleaned the inside of the magazine tube and put a light oil inside and cleaned up the follower and spring.
The butt plate was not fitted well and was oversized and the wood stood pretty proud of the tangs. I marked the level of the tangs with an awl so I wouldn't take too much off. I did a little inletting work on the butt plate and filed it down some where it was standing proud of the wood. (reblued the edges with cold blue. Not a perfect match to the factory blue but close enough.
I used a chemical stripper to remove the old finish. filed and sanded the wrist area and re-contoured it a little so the wood to metal fit is better. This is trial and error, sand and fit. You can always take more wood off but you can't put more on so go slow.
I then finish sanded the wood taking it down to 500grit. Between sandings, I raised the grain using rubbing alcohol. It does a couple things, first alcohol dries fast and makes the work go faster than regular tap water and the alcohol takes some of the oils out of the surface of the wood. Once I was satisfied with the prep work, I applied the final finish.
For that, I used Minwax Tung Oil. It's the same stuff I use on my muzzleloader stocks and have been happy. I apply it with my bare hands. I pour a little in a cup and dip my fingers in rubbing it in in a very thin coat. Then smooth out with the palm of my hand until it is a very thin but even coat. Let it sit overnight. First coat just soaks in and looks like poo the next day. I then take a lint free cloth and buff the surface a bit (no steel wool or sandpaper, just a cloth) and put the next coats on the same way. Some stocks work with 3 coats others take more. This one used 5 coats.
Then let it sit for a couple days so the finish cures and reassemble the gun. I usually let them sit for a week before any handling or shooting to be sure the tung oil has fully cured.
That's about it.
Jeff
