I've been reloading and shooting centerfire rifles and shotguns for many years.
I've been reloading and shooting a .357 Mag revolver for 3 years.
I have a Ruger GP100 that I bought new. I've shot approx. 1,500 rounds thru it. All were my reloads. No big problems occurred. Those 1,500 rounds covered a wide variety of loads....tho all were with 125 grain WW JHP bullets.
I've never shot this .357 rapidly, either double or single action. I figured my learning curve was too steep to mess with another item to think about.
This .357 will soon be put into self & home defense duty, so I feel it's time for me to do a few hundred rapid fire shots. I want to do a training regimen of 3 shots rapid fire, double action.......directed towards a life-size human-silhoutte target.. This rapid fire exercise will employ 125 grain WW JHP bullets. I plan on initially using a low-recoil load, and gradually increasing the intensity of the load.
I worry about a squib........of the type where the bullet gets far enough into the bore that the cylinder WILL rotate....and the weapon is capable of "firing". another round. I pucker-up a bit when I think of a JHP bullet being driven into another JHP bullet that's already lodged in the bore.
My question: I want opinions on what usually causes a squib of this type. Is it total lack of powder? Powder amount too small? Contaminated powder? Weak primer ignition, for whatever reason? In the real world, if everyone told 100% truth 100% of the time, what is most likely to cause me to experience a squib that drives the jacketed bullet into the bore?
I am handicapped in rapid-fire "squib detection" I suppose, in that I have _VERY VERY_ bad hearing, and I also always wear both ear-plugs and ear muffs, both of which have a high level of noise reduction/attenuation.
I guess I feel that my chances of detecting a squib, and reacting _IN TIME_ , during a rapid-fire exercise with a revolver, is not good. Therefore, I want to do everything possible with my reloads to avoid a squib.
Thank you for any possible response..........
FjLee Denver CO
I've been reloading and shooting a .357 Mag revolver for 3 years.
I have a Ruger GP100 that I bought new. I've shot approx. 1,500 rounds thru it. All were my reloads. No big problems occurred. Those 1,500 rounds covered a wide variety of loads....tho all were with 125 grain WW JHP bullets.
I've never shot this .357 rapidly, either double or single action. I figured my learning curve was too steep to mess with another item to think about.
This .357 will soon be put into self & home defense duty, so I feel it's time for me to do a few hundred rapid fire shots. I want to do a training regimen of 3 shots rapid fire, double action.......directed towards a life-size human-silhoutte target.. This rapid fire exercise will employ 125 grain WW JHP bullets. I plan on initially using a low-recoil load, and gradually increasing the intensity of the load.
I worry about a squib........of the type where the bullet gets far enough into the bore that the cylinder WILL rotate....and the weapon is capable of "firing". another round. I pucker-up a bit when I think of a JHP bullet being driven into another JHP bullet that's already lodged in the bore.
My question: I want opinions on what usually causes a squib of this type. Is it total lack of powder? Powder amount too small? Contaminated powder? Weak primer ignition, for whatever reason? In the real world, if everyone told 100% truth 100% of the time, what is most likely to cause me to experience a squib that drives the jacketed bullet into the bore?
I am handicapped in rapid-fire "squib detection" I suppose, in that I have _VERY VERY_ bad hearing, and I also always wear both ear-plugs and ear muffs, both of which have a high level of noise reduction/attenuation.
I guess I feel that my chances of detecting a squib, and reacting _IN TIME_ , during a rapid-fire exercise with a revolver, is not good. Therefore, I want to do everything possible with my reloads to avoid a squib.
Thank you for any possible response..........
FjLee Denver CO