Repair for SA Blackhawk "pulled-through" grip pane

[texaswheelgunner]

Have one panel off an OM .45 Convertable that is just barely pulled out on the inside. A couple of cracks are apparant and splinters are barely coming out but not really bad yet like others I have seen.

I've repaired others by pulling out the splinters far enough to get bedding compound or epoxy underneath and then clamping the splinters back down flat until the epoxy has set.

How do I approach one that is just barely splintered?

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[Pinecone]

texaswheelgunner, Those are difficult to mess with, given the splinter and cracks. What I do is "rout" out the areas on the back side of the grip with a Router and small circular routing bit and fill in with Acraglass and smooth over after cured with sandpaper. This seems to be the most "lasting" way I have found to deal with this problem. If cracks are showing on the "outside", refinish the grips and use a wood filler with a "wood stain" to match and finish as you normally would. This is not a "quick" fix but it comes out nicely!................Dick :wink:

 

[J Miller]

I fixed one by finishing pushing the ferule through the wood then filling the broken area will bedding epoxy. I also filled in the ferule hole. I then put a large washer between the two grip panels coated with release agent and then clamped them together. When dried I sanded the back side smooth, redrilled the ferule hole shallower than original to give it more material to push against and it's done.

NOTE: I know this is an old thread but I found the pic that goes with the grips I described above. The pic might help someone so I'm gonna post it:

Other than finishing the break, or routing it out as Pinecone did, I don't know of another way to get the epoxy or glue into the damaged area.

Joe

 

[texaswheelgunner]

Miller and pinecone, thanks very much for your answers. I had about decided what you both have essentially said: you gotta get underneath the cracks one way or another to really FIX the problem.

Pinecone, no cracks are visable on the front of the panel, only on the backside. I think I'll carefully pry up the splintered parts; maybe even carve off some tiny bits of the splinters with a sharp hobby knife to allow room for the bedding epoxy.

Thanks again for taking the time to read and answer my question.

 

[rugerguy]

yep, sometime you gotta use something like an old hypodermic needle to get the epoxy,glue, resin, whatever into and below the surface,may have to raise and lower to get the stuff to "hydraulic" itself down and in...then clamp...yes, you may have to break it out ( finish the job,,the overtightening started........)may have to use a LONGER screw and a wide spacer so you can "access" the wood splinter as it is rising ( pulling apart)

 

[Dan in MI]

Bowyers use a Loctite (can't remember the #) product that is a "wicking" super glue. If will fix the working limb of a recurve bow it should have no problem fixing a grip panel.

I will look for the number.

 

[Dan in MI]

--420--

If you want to see "the wiz" of bow repair do his magic look here.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb. ... 001670;p=2

 

[contender]

Another trick to get glue into SMALL cracks is to use a small bird feather. It will slide into small cracks when other tools will not go.

 

[texaswheelgunner]

Dan and Contender, wow, I never knew about the Loctite 420, but I'll surely look into it. That's probably just what I need for this particular project. And also the use of a small feather....who would have ever thought!!!! Thanks for all these good ideas, guys.

And that bow repair......amazing!

 

[nvbirdman]

After you fix it, be sure to use a grip spacer in the future. It is a small aluminum bushing the same length as the space between the grips and has a hole that the grip screw goes through. Available at your local hardware store.

 

[texaswheelgunner]

nvbirdman, yes, i've fit bushings to two other sets of grips. These that are damaged came damaged on the Ruger I recently purchased. Thanks for your suggestion.

 

[J Miller]

Where is a good place to get this Loctite 420? I've got another one to fix and I've been putting it off cos I don't wanna break it some more.

Joe

 

[BwBrown]

One added feature of the super-glues, they will penetrate everything, even glue oily surfaces together! Used to use it on oil slick surfaces on RC model airplanes, esp around the engine area.
Good luck, and remember - gluing oily surfaces includes any fingers or other body parts that come into contact - and cure time on some is very close to instant!
Bob

 

[Aggie01]

um, i have good left grip panel for sale...
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=108569&highlight=
nearly giving it away once you wash out shipping.

 

[Short Barrel]

The Loctite 420 is amazing stuff.I got mine from McMaster-Carr.You can do a google search and may find it cheaper.It is usually used with an insulin syringe for tiny cracks.It also is a great sealer-filler for small projects like grips.It makes a great sealer over oily exotic woods that some finishes don't like.Use latex surgical gloves and smear the 420 over the surface of the wood.Wait 15 minutes and sand down to the surface of the wood.If all the pores aren't filled,repeat.I have done it 3 times on deep pored wood but some only take once.Anyway,it is quick and you can go immediately into your finish coats.No need to wait overnight for sealers or fillers to dry.

420 seems expensive at $18-$20 an ounce but keep in mind that most super glues we buy are very small fractions of an ounce but actually cost more in the long run.

 

[I_Like_Pie]

I will also sing th praises of the super-glues like 420. They really do work well on small cracks....capillary action alone pulls it is good enough for most repairs.

Great stuff for shotgun and lever action stocks that have taken a beating and have hairline cracks near the receiver/action.


Word of warning on the 420 that I learned the hard way when sealing larger surfaces....the stuff has fumes that will stick to your contact lenses and make them gummy. Use in a place with decent ventilation or have a fan blowing.