Reloading the .223

[gramps]

Hi guys, I started to reload the .223, when I bought an H&R bull barrel. Shot up some PMC and Federal. Had a time getting the primers out! Ended up having to get a universal deprimer. Then the neck was too large, the projectiles dropped all the way in. Then I sized the cases, put powder in, placed the 55grn fmj projectile and crushed the shoulder! On all 20 cartridges in spite of constantly adjusting the Lee die longer. Of course none of them will chamber( that was years ago), still need to pull them apart. I initially set the die with a live round as I do for my .357 mags and .44 spcl/.44 mags. I want to try again, but I am "gun shy"! Any advice?
gramps

 

[pleadthe2nd]

223 can be a pain for me too, the primers are usually crimped , and have to ream the pockets, this brass usually needs trimmed and chamfered.

 

[loaded round]

Crimped primers on most G. I. .223/5.556 and cases will need to be full length resized and primer pockets swaged as ''pleadthe2nd''states. I would suggest getting a good reloading book to reup on reloading procedures and definitely get a 223 case gauge to check your sized cases and loaded ammo. You will know immediately if your resized case and/or loaded round is in spec and will chamber in your AR15. Another suggestion would be to get a buddy who reloads 223's to help you set up your dies for the first time. Good luck!

 

[akbluz]

A case gauge is "definitely" your friend. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[sncup]

Gramps
If your H&R is a single shot like I think, then you already the the "case gauge". Just drop a reloaded cartridge in the breach and it should go in with little resistance, slip right in.

Yes bullets can fall right in an "unsized" case, that is why you resize them.

Your seating die is definitely set wrong. See a U tube video on how to set up a bottle neck seating die.

You will need to keep checking the length of your resized cases "every time after sizing" to insure they are short enough to not be a problem.

You can either ream out tight primer pockets, or swage the primer pockets. Swaging is another tool so if you are only doing a small # then just use your reamer. PS a reamer is necessary after cases are shortened.

Yep, having a buddy that reloads bottle neck rifle cartridges is a good way to learn. It has several steps and they are important, but lots of folks have been sucessful.

 

[loaded round]

Pleadthe2nd: I meant to mention this in my first post about crimped primers in 223/5.56 once fired cases. I found the Dillon ''Super Swage 600'' tool to be the perfect tool to swage out those annoying crimped primer pockets after resizing those GI or other cases with crimped primers. I believe I've used every tool on the market, including a pocket knife, to remove the crimp on these cases, but the Dillon is the best period! It's a bit expensive, but it works, does not destroy cases, and is quick. Give the Dillon some thought.
Loaded Round

 

[pleadthe2nd]

Thanks loaded round, I will look into that, as I usually do my 223 brass in large batches, like 1000 at a time, over a period of days, I've been using the Lyman hand held multitool, which makes me sore quickly, it works well, but I have to wear a wrist and thumb brace, or things get quit painful.

 

[wwb]

crushing the shoulder can be the result of a couple things that come to mind -

Are the cases full-length resized to set the shoulder back? Or are they are fire-formed and neck-sized? In either case, it could be the expander is too small and the shoulder buckles when you try to seat the bullet.

Have they been trimmed after resizing? If you're using a combination seating/crimping die, the crimp portion of the die may be trying to shorten the case, if the die was adjusted using an unfired factory round. I prefer to seat and crimp separately, since adjusting the combination dies is a pain in the you-know-what.

 

[loaded round]

It's also called blisters. Been there, done that, so that's why I bought and use the Dillon 600 Super Swage.

Thanks loaded round, I will look into that, as I usually do my 223 brass in large batches, like 1000 at a time, over a period of days, I've been using the Lyman hand held multitool, which makes me sore quickly, it works well, but I have to wear a wrist and thumb brace, or things get quit painful.

 

[blammer]

Sounds like your case necks are being closed too tight, so bullet sits on top of case and instead of going in, just crushes the neck. Some suggestions:

1. Try putting a tiny film of case lube just inside the case neck. You can try just rubbing over the top of the case with a tiny bit of case lube on your finger. I've used the case neck cleaning brush that came with RCBS case lube kit. I just take the brush and lightly roll it over a barely lubed lube pad like a case. Wipe off excess from brush and then put brush into the case mouth and remove it prior to adding powder. Some powder might stick to the lube, but I've never had a problem. You could put the lube in after powder load, but I don't. I've heard that Hornady One Shot Case Lube in the neck works as it is a dry lube so doesn't contaminate powder, but I've not used it.

2. Your expander may be too small in diameter, allowing the neck to be sized too small. Get another one to see if it works. Send email to Lee: they might even send you another one free.

3. After you sized the military-crimped cases, was the decapping pin assembly rod sticking out of the top of the sizer die? It should be flush (or barely above) the collet. This MIGHT have moved the expander ball too far up to work. Not likely, but worth a try. One annoying thing about LEE sizer dies is that the collet holding the decapping pin, expander rod assembly has to be REALLY, REALLY knucklebusting tight to keep it from moving up in the die when it encounters resistance, like removing military crimped primers. Lee told me that the decapping assembly rod sticking up 'a little' was no problem.

Good luck. Rifle cases are different process than straightwall handgun. Hang in there

 

[NVSeabee]

Pleadthe2nd: I meant to mention this in my first post about crimped primers in 223/5.56 once fired cases. I found the Dillon ''Super Swage 600'' tool to be the perfect tool to swage out those annoying crimped primer pockets after resizing those GI or other cases with crimped primers. I believe I've used every tool on the market, including a pocket knife, to remove the crimp on these cases, but the Dillon is the best period! It's a bit expensive, but it works, does not destroy cases, and is quick. Give the Dillon some thought.
Loaded Round

I bought an aftermarket swaging tool that replaces the priming bar on the Dillon 550 and it works real well. It cuts the time by more than half compared to using the Super Swage. I found it on Ebay. I do large batches at a time as well.

 

[Mobuck]

If you're crumpling the case neck when seating bullets, you need to chamfer the mouth more. If you're crumpling the shoulder, it's most likely the crimp function of the die is causing this so screw the seater die out a full rotation(or more) and reset the seater stem. You don't need to crimp the bullet for use in the H&R. Using a factory loaded round to adjust your dies doesn't work for bottleneck cartridges.
H&R rifles can be very picky about case fit so make sure the resized cases fit the chamber or you'll end up with an improperly sized loaded round stuck in the chamber.

 

[Johnnu2]

This primer pocket swaging tool from RCBS works well for me and screws in to single stage presses. About $40 msrp

https://www.rcbs.com/case-prep/accessories/primer-pocket-swager-combo-2/16-9481.html

 

[loaded round]

I started using the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool on my Redding press until I tried the Dillon Super Swage Tool and there was no comparison between the two tools. I bought the Dillon that also swages the primer pocket s on my military 308 cases and 300 BLk cases. I realize the Dillon is probably 2 or 3 times more expensive than the RCBS tool but you can't put a price on convenience. BTW, I sold my RCBS swage tool on Fleabay for 30.00!

https://www.rcbs.com/case-prep/accessories/primer-pocket-swager-combo-2/16-9481.html[/quote]

 

[krw]

If you want to see the real potential of the 223, buy a bx of Lapua brass. Some LC brass is good but lots of military brass is crap. Anytime I'm tryin to make a rifle hammer I start with Lapua brass

 

[gramps]

Thanks for the input guys. The brass I am using is once fired PMC. I do small batches at a time. I had to get a universal decapper to punch out the spent primers, leaving the opening too large. I have since tried sizing the brass after the decapping. All I need to do now is fire some. Thanks guys!
gramps