Refinish Blackhawk grip frame.

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mlea5150

Bearcat
Joined
May 31, 2017
Messages
39
Location
NE Ohio
Has anyone had a Blackhawk grip frame refinished? Says "alloy steel" on Ruger's website, but sure seems like aluminum to me. What is the finish that is on them and how would you go about stripping it? Since it doesn't appear to be blued steel, I'm thinking of trying hard chrome or Robar's NP3.
 
Ale-8(1) said:
Try a magnet to be sure.

The aluminum ones are anodized on the older ones, and I'm not real sure on the newer ones. Powder coating?

Steel ones are indeed blued.
I did try a magnet and it doesn't stick, not even a little, which is why I figure it's aluminum. It could be powder coated or some sort of paint. Just looking for the best way to remove it without damaging the frame.
 
With the vintage of the gun or a serial # we can tell what it was originally: anodized with black die or black powder coated as Ale posted above. You can put almost any finish on it. Duro coat in semi gloss black is easy, just buy the spray can. Even brass plate.

Or change the grip frame to a Ruger blued alloy steel or stainless.

Factory Video - New Model Ruger Disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

Factory Video - NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related
 
Yes, if you're going to go the rattle-can route, there's really no need to completely strip the finish. Simply get it wet-sanded smooth down to at least 400 grit paper (or finer) and spray it. Light coats.

I've been told the auto engine high-temp flat black works well, but haven't tried it. Not much to lose, as it could be sanded off again if you didn't like it.

:)
 
If you're thinking about doing hard chrome or NP3, which are silver finishes, just strip it off with a bead blast and leave it bare. I have one that was done like that 18yrs ago.
 
Swapping for a steel gripframe may get expensive.
Those have to be fitted, which takes some time, which adds up to money.
The aluminum gripframes are never fitted.
Denis
 
DPris said:
Swapping for a steel gripframe may get expensive.
Those have to be fitted, which takes some time, which adds up to money.
The aluminum gripframes are never fitted.
Denis
Yup, and those steel grip frames are highly prized by some custom builders, thus another part of the scarcity and cost. :?
 
I had 2 old model XR3 aluminum grip frames cerecoated. they turned out really nice.should hold up better than the original finish.
Ron
 
What 2sheriffs said. I have several Bowen custom OMBH's and he had the grip frames cero-coated. Nicely done.
 
Since you asked about hard chrome, an easier, least hassle, and least expensive solution is a Ruger stainless grip frame that's interchangeable and will just screw right on.

Here's the cheapest I've seen for $85 shipped from a forum member: http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=265764

It's a takeoff which means it's already been factory fitted and will fit as well as your aluminum GF. It's the same same size as yours and you can use your original grips. At worst you might need slight adjustment at the top of the backstrap ears around the hammer base:
orig.jpg


Is your Blackhawk a New Model?

orig.jpg


Hammer ears correct fit to main frame:
orig.jpg
 
OK, full disclosure as to why I asked this question. I own 2 Vaqueros and a stainless Blackhawk, all of which have steel frames. I ordered this current Blackhawk online, and since Ruger lists the frame as "alloy steel", I assumed is was the same as my Vaqueros. My intention was to add some Power Custom parts, have the frame Color case hardened and everything else refinished in a high polished blue. I took the gun to Scott Kolar and had some custom (and very expensive) grips made for this frame. I finally got around to adding the Power Custom parts, and it was at this point I realized I have an aluminum frame, not steel as I had assumed all along. I also found that there's a new Lipsey's model that is already close to what I wanted to accomplish.

I then figured I would just sell this Blackhawk and put the money towards the Lipsey's model. The problem is that I wanted to keep the custom grips, but they don't fit my other Blackhawk as they were made specifically for the alloy frame. So now I feel like I'm stuck with this frame. With that being said, I figured I would go in a completely different direction and turn it into a 2 tone stainless/blue sort of look, which is why I was asking about refinishing the frame. If I hadn't already had those grips made, I would have just sold the gun or bought another frame.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I'm not a fan of Cerakote but that may be the cheapest and easiest way to go.
 
Yes, Ruger indicates the "material" is alloy steel, but they mean the revolver in general, not the grip frame. It's confusing.

Now knowing your situation, I would just put your custom grips on your SS Blackhawk and have the grip frame fitted to the custom grips. Since it's stainless, it won't need rebluing.

Or if the Lipsey's gun is stainless put the custom grips on it and have the GF fitted to the grips. Sell the gun with alum GF or trade in on the Lipsey's model.

If the Lipsey's gun is blued with alloy steel GF. Buy the stainless GF I noted above and sell the Lipsey's blue steel GF. They sell for between $100 to $150, especially when brand new.
That will get you some extra cash to go towards having the GF fitted to your custom grips and the ears fitted to your Lipsey's gun.
 
If you want to keep the grips, I would strip and polish the aluminum grip frame and forget about swapping it. The grips won't fit as well as anything you might change it to.
 
I sent emails to Robar and APW Cogan. APW Cogan says they can hard chrome the aluminum frame. Still waiting to hear from Robar, but I'm sure it can be NP3'ed. So, I may try to sell it as is with the custom grips and hope not to take too much of a loss, or just go the hard chrome route and turn it into a 2 tone gun.
 
Like I said, there's no reason to plate it. You can polish it bright or bead blast it matte and just leave it bare.

Polished:
P1010054.JPG


Blasted:
IMG_7120e.jpg
 
CraigC said:
Like I said, there's no reason to plate it. You can polish it bright or bead blast it matte and just leave it bare.

Polished:
P1010054.JPG


Blasted:
IMG_7120e.jpg

I'd like to know how you got that nice bright polished finish, too. I recently picked up an Old Model Blackhawk .45 that I would love brighten up the grip frame on. As you can see, a previous owner started the process but didn't get it done so well. BTW, I was worried that it might be possible to go too far, and that has kept me from trying, at least until I learn more.

other-stuff-3282-picture44574-ruger-old-mobel-blackhawk-convertible.jpg
 
Electroless nickel is the way I have gone on BH/SBH grip frames. Cost-effective and no regrets, regardless of desert heat or blizzards on horseback.

I prefer some MIL-spec finish, ideally aerospace-approved.
 
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