Recommend a good barrel for a 10 / 22
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hutchman
Blackhawk
I have two 10/22s, one with a GM barrel and all the bells and whistles. The other is a completely stock 10/22 DSP. The stock one shoots almost as good as the full tilt one does.
My advice is to shoot yours stock for a while until you know what it will do and then look at modding it!
My advice is to shoot yours stock for a while until you know what it will do and then look at modding it!
I think hutchman is giving you good advice. For me, the biggest improvement you can make, is to upgrade the trigger. I would do that first.
Hornet products has a nice assortment of trigger groups to chose from, but the best deal is their "Plinker Special" on page two. $79.95
http://www.hornetproducts.com/bin/categ ... ategory=10
Gumby
Hornet products has a nice assortment of trigger groups to chose from, but the best deal is their "Plinker Special" on page two. $79.95
http://www.hornetproducts.com/bin/categ ... ategory=10
Gumby
joshheat25
Bearcat
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- Mar 13, 2009
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- 38
hutchman":3adzew7v said:
That is great advice. thanx it saves me alot of $$ also haha
OP didn't ask for advice on upgrades or mods, he asked for advice on a barrel, which apparently he's already decided on.
My first mod would be sights, either a scope or good peeps. Then maybe a sear, depending on how bad the factory trigger is.
Almost ALL factory 10/22s will shoot much better than almost ANY of US can, from standing offhand, or even from common field positions. If you shoot mainly from a bench, however, it's another matter. :wink:
My first mod would be sights, either a scope or good peeps. Then maybe a sear, depending on how bad the factory trigger is.
Almost ALL factory 10/22s will shoot much better than almost ANY of US can, from standing offhand, or even from common field positions. If you shoot mainly from a bench, however, it's another matter. :wink:
hutchman
Blackhawk
Snake45":2fa4hkw5 said:
OK, fair enough........the OP asked for recommendations of a barrel as his first mod, not what to mod first.
My recommendation is a Green Mountain barrel as they seem to be a good value.........and I still would shoot it stock until I found out how it shot....! :wink:
If someone was asking for anything as their first modification to a 10/22 I would also recommend the trigger first....
with that said, from what I've heard Green Mountain is the best .920 barrel for the bucks... I've got a 16" one that is pretty good.. I've also got a Adams and Bennett that is a tack driver...
but and here is the big BUTT: you still have to find the right ammo for the barrel... even expensive barrels like good ammo.
with that said, from what I've heard Green Mountain is the best .920 barrel for the bucks... I've got a 16" one that is pretty good.. I've also got a Adams and Bennett that is a tack driver...
but and here is the big BUTT: you still have to find the right ammo for the barrel... even expensive barrels like good ammo.
CraigC
Hawkeye
Couple of things, no discussion about barrel selection can take place before knowing the intended purpose. You don't wanna build a 9lb bench rifle if you want to walk the woods and shoot squirrels.
Secondly, I fully disagree that the standard carbine will "shoot better than any of us can". The theory is silly. No, you ain't gonna shoot benched groups standing on your hind legs but your offhand shooting will be significantly different between a factory barrel that shoots into 2"@50yds vs. an aftermarket barrel that does 1/2" at the same distance. Think about it, if your point of aim wavers around a 2" circle at 50yds, the half inch gun will do no more than 2.5" while the 2" gun will do as much as 4". Then think about the size of the kill zone on a rabbit or squirrel.
Secondly, I fully disagree that the standard carbine will "shoot better than any of us can". The theory is silly. No, you ain't gonna shoot benched groups standing on your hind legs but your offhand shooting will be significantly different between a factory barrel that shoots into 2"@50yds vs. an aftermarket barrel that does 1/2" at the same distance. Think about it, if your point of aim wavers around a 2" circle at 50yds, the half inch gun will do no more than 2.5" while the 2" gun will do as much as 4". Then think about the size of the kill zone on a rabbit or squirrel.
I finally found a place that carried the green mountain fluted barrel 16". Seems to be hard to find anywhere. I also purchased a new v - extractor, and will get a trigger soon. How about the ammo, what will feed well with the green mountain barrel. Thanks again for all your help. This site is awesome.
Larry from Bend
Single-Sixer
If you DO want a .920 barrel -- remember that probably means getting a new stock, also. I have a Volquartsen Tensioned Carbon Fiber that has really been worth the $$$ along with a Hogue Overmolded stock that fits the fatter barrel. I would DEFINITELY get a Volquartsen Target Hammer for $30-$40. Having a nice, smooth 2 pound trigger makes all the difference. It's simple to make your own trigger overtravel stop.
Whatever. All I know is the last time I shot a 50 yard standing offhand .22 match, I outshot a whole line of rifles that were way more accurate (from the bench) than mine. The only guy who beat me had a way more accurate rifle too, but he's also (and more importantly) a better shot than me. We could have switched rifles, with me shooting his and him shooting mine, and he'd have still beat me. :wink:CraigC":zrh9hzrn said:
Bucks Owin
Hunter
I have a .920" Green Mt on mine, (actually Adams & Bennett) that was a "second" because it had a scratch in the finish. Paid $35 for it if memory serves. Sandblasted the paint off any gave it a "french grey" epoxy paint job. Got a laminated Boyd's stock on sale too, don't remember what that cost but was reasonable...Some Volqartson trigger partsand a careful bedding job, a used 4X12 Bushnell and I have a rig that'll group Wolf M/T into -1/2" at 50 yds....Check out "Rimfire Central" forum, lotsa parts swapping and selling there. Bet you can build a tackdriver on the cheap! :wink: (BTW, it is kinda heavy...)
mohavesam
Hawkeye
Clark.
They were doing match-accuracy barrels - tapered, fluted, and bar-stock - before GN or A&B or any of the others. And Clark barrels actually ADD value to your 10/22!
Consider Randy at CPC. They will re-work your Ruger barrels to shame most aftermarket drop-in tubes, and usually for less money!
They were doing match-accuracy barrels - tapered, fluted, and bar-stock - before GN or A&B or any of the others. And Clark barrels actually ADD value to your 10/22!
Consider Randy at CPC. They will re-work your Ruger barrels to shame most aftermarket drop-in tubes, and usually for less money!
208packinheat
Single-Sixer
Late to the party, and a bit out of touch, I have never re-barrled a 10/22, but have several 77/22's (.22 lr) for indoor silhouette (Paper punch version). Volquartsen has been my choice, and for offhand the extra weight was needed. I found the Volquartsen product very very well done, and because I would pay for satisfaction (and have little experience with other brands), I would go with the Volquartsen.
Bigfoot62
Bearcat
You might want to read here: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10
Hard to beat GM for the $.
Hard to beat GM for the $.
208packinheat
Single-Sixer
Not a 10/22, but Volquartsen was the way I went. Use this 77/22 for indoor paper punching, and it will drill a single hole at the 50 ft (of course rested :? ) .
http://www.me.com/ro/mjones_epsilon/Gal ... 9925640001
Sure the $ difference makes the GM more interesting, but I did this 20 years ago, and well the V was what was available.
http://www.me.com/ro/mjones_epsilon/Gal ... 9925640001
Sure the $ difference makes the GM more interesting, but I did this 20 years ago, and well the V was what was available.
