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SBHRSSSSS

Bearcat
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
90
Hi, I just picked up a 1968 Blackhawk .30 Carbine. Sadly, in well used condition. Nevertheless, I'm thinking about what to do, besides shoot it. Original Bluing, particularly the barrel, is well worn, not just holster wear. Cylinder is good. Frame and Gate aren't too bad, just dull and worn. Grip Frame is good, just missing 1 screw. Hammer sides are dark. Ejector Rod Housing has been polished to bright aluminum, maybe 180 grit. Original Grips are "enhanced" with wood burning and initials.
What would be the best option in the long run, for value?
Should I restore it to original condition?
Should I make it a creative project?
Color Case Harden the Frame and Gate, Re-Blue the Barrel and Small Parts?
Regarding Color Case Harden; I know it is hard to maintain. What do you think of Imitation Color Case Hardening using chemicals vs. True Old Methods?
Can a New Brass or Steel Grip Frame work on an Old Model Blackhawk or Single Six?
Thanks for your thoughtful replies.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
8,051
Location
People's Republik of California
Lots'a questions.

It all depends on how much money you want to put into it.

Your ideas run the full spectrum!
The less you spend, the more chance you'll be able to recoup the value.
True CCHardening is the best option but $300 or so and you won't recoup that.

You ask a very good question about refinish for which much mis-information abounds.

It's been my experience that Ruger's re-finish/re-blue, based on those I've had done are the best that you can get and more reasonably priced than any local smith for a "new gun level" blue job. To me a factory re-blue that makes the gun look like it was a restoration to new is preferred. I believe a separate specialized team does the work. They are polished on the factory specialized equipment using the factory techniques. The flat surfaces are always flat, original factory contours are maintained/restored, and all lettering is clear and undistorted by over buffing. Note: as for any re-blue done by anyone, serious deep rust pits can not always be completely removed.

All the Ruger guns I've seen or had re-finished by Ruger look as good but usually better than any new Rugers.

Some want a custom blue, shinier than new and/or custom polished and are willing to pay more for that. That's fine. But most local refinishes cost more, are over buffed, and don't look as good as a new Ruger. Some look worse than the worn gun to begin with, and those will make you cry. (It's not unlike trying to get a decent car re-paint job.) And if you send the gun out, you'll pay shipping both ways, and wait who knows how long. The success of the final result is in the eye and the wallet of the beholder.

So it all depends on what you want.

Now consider these facts to make an informed decision:

Current Ruger cost for a revolver re-finish is $130 plus $30 return shipping from their website here: http://www.ruger.com/service/serviceFees.html And it will be returned in from 11 to 14 days.

You can request that the safety retrofit conversion be done for free including the shipping to Ruger; just call Ruger and they will supply a pre paid shipping label and usually a box to send the gun to them, and return ship it back to you for free. Therefore, no $30 return shipping charge as shown above if you request only a refinish.

Yes they will refinish the alum alloy grip frames and other alloy parts. It will not be dyed black and anodized as originally, it will be powder coated (a superior baked on finish in my opinion) like the current new Rugers.

Yes, they will convert your Ruger, whether you request it or not (no changes or machining are done to the revolver itself, only parts are replaced.)

Yes, your old parts are returned, with the exception of any specific part (not the entire gun) that is worn beyond a safe limit.

Yes, you can remove all interior parts and keep them before sending.

Yes, the gun will usually (with few exceptions) be stamped with an R on the bottom of the frame, under the trigger guard which must be removed to view the R.

Yes, the retrofit safety parts can easily be removed and the old parts replaced in the gun.

Yes, the safety retrofit will still index the chambers for loading; it is different than the New Model transfer bar parts. You still have to cock the hammer to half cock which is what indexes the chambers to the ejector rod and loading chute.

What do I do?
For old models, I always request the safety retrofit and ask for a refinish/re-blue as well. I remove and keep the original action parts and grips. I paid a total of $130 1n 7/14. I would also have new models done by Ruger and gladly pay the postage. Ruger service fees: http://www.ruger.com/service/serviceFees.html


Here's the last Ruger I had done at the factory. (I paid shipping for this Hawkeye because there is no Ruger factory safety retrofit kit for it.) I replaced the powder coated alum alloy grip frame with a steel GF polished bright:
large.jpg


Steel grip frame replacement:
Ruger won't do it but any NM grip frame made will fit on your OM. The only modification you'll need is an adaptor trigger to use the new model trigger return spring in the grip frame. If you consider doing this just ask for more details.
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
9,747
Location
Dallas, TX
I'm not against the 30 Carbine caliber, but it is just a bear to reload. I tried off and on for a year and couldn't get it right.

My vote? If you are looking for a project, how about getting it re-chambered into something else, and cch the small parts like you suggested, and go from there. Have yourself a nice custom revolver.
 

SBHRSSSSS

Bearcat
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
90
Thanks for everyone's replies, particularly Hondo's lengthy, detailed guide. I really appreciate this. One thought I had; Has anyone ever had the Frame of a Blackhawk Brass Plated? I've read about nickel, but, what about brass? I know that an actual brass frame would be too weak. Just a curious thought. Thanks.
 

trapperon

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Messages
786
Location
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Great revolver! I'm not sure what you paid, but I would suspect your biggest value increasers would be to clean it up thoroughly--replace the grips with factory period correct ones, replace the ejector housing and replace the missing screw. For what market value is on these, I would sink as little as possible into it. Originality is a huge plus when it comes to resale. Just enjoy it as original---they are really a fun gun to shoot!

Ron
 
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