Quiet 10-22

Help Support Ruger Forum:

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
My son and I are interested in building a supressed 10-22. We're all set from the legal end and have a supressor and barrel. I'd like some suggestions on how to go as far as a stock and the action parts. Would looking for any old "used" 10-22 be the best start? Are custom parts like trigger group, etc. really worth the money? This is a new project for both of us so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Gerry
 

BlkHawk73

Hunter
Joined
Dec 30, 1999
Messages
4,424
Location
Maine
It all depends on what you want out of the firearm as far as performance. After the costof the suppressor and the tax, is another $100 a big deal?
 

mattsbox99

Hunter
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Messages
3,391
Location
Montana 'Merica
I'm not convinced you can wear out a 10/22, but mine has a Tactical Solutions barrel and Hogue overmolded stock, and a tuned trigger. It was an $85 pawn shop find. I just repainted the receiver with epoxy paint and it looks brand new.
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
9,165
Location
Greenville, SC: USA
I don't think I'd ever spend the money on a totally new custom trigger group. Now you can get a much better trigger by replacing the hammer and spring and such.. and yes I think they are worth the money...

extended mag release and bolt lock are other nice little improvements.

I guess you know to get the most out of the suppressor you need to shoot sub sonic rounds?

I have a friend that has one with the suppressor built in the barrel and it is really kind of freaky to hear the bolt cycle and then a second or so later hear the bullet 'smack' the target.

He's also got a 10/22 with full auto trigger group and receiver he built (legal for him) that fires something like 1100 rounds a minute that he puts a suppressor on, I want one of these so bad... but am not willing to jump through the hoops, and bend over for the government to do it.
 

BlkHawk73

Hunter
Joined
Dec 30, 1999
Messages
4,424
Location
Maine
blume357":2qw8hlvy said:
I don't think I'd ever spend the money on a totally new custom trigger group. Now you can get a much better trigger by replacing the hammer and spring and such.. and yes I think they are worth the money...

The full assembly triggers are NICE. Have a Jard and will get a Kidd for my next build. I've tried the DIY kits and was never too excited about the results. For about the same $ you can have your factory trigger redone (torsion spring :)) and get a much better result. A few top the Volquartsen assembly. I use TT Shooter but based on other's reports I might try those by Rimfire Technologies (Skeeter). A GOOD trigger goes a long ways and until you've tried the better ones, even a bad DIY job seems good.
 

mohavesam

Hawkeye
Joined
Jan 4, 2004
Messages
5,847
Location
Rugerville, AZ
Y'know...

Buying some of the Aquila Colibri rounds, in a 10/22 carbine, can be as quiet as a NFA suppressor, at least near-as-quiet.

A pal has a large counter-bore milled into his target barrel, setting the crown back about 1.25 from the barrel end. With the Colibri rounds, I'll tell you the bolt cycling was much louder than the muzzle report!

Consider.
 

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
BlkHawk73, No, another $100 is not a big deal. I just wanted some ideas on the best way to spend it. I guess I'll go on the search for a used 10-22 and see what I can find for a reasonable price. I don't think I'd be justified in buying a new one for this project. Then I'll consider adding the parts others have suggested. I'm not looking for an outrageous target rifle, just something capable of squirrels, etc. Thanks all. Gerry
 

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
A week-long search for a used 10-22 didn't turn up anything worthwhile so I bought a new one. Also ordered most of the recommended parts from Midway, including a Hogue stock and a nice Leupold 6X scope. The local squirrels are headed for the endangered species list. Thanks for the help folks. Gerry
 

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
Well this rebuild is complete. Used the parts I've already listed plus a Power Custom hammer and sear kit and bolt release. Kept the original Ruger springs. Everything works fine and the final product looks pretty good. Hope to have some time in the next few days to sight in the scope and make sure everything functions as it should. Thanks again for the tips. Gerry
 

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
Looks like I'm mostly talking to myself anyway. Went to the range this afternoon to see if I could sight this new gun in. Disaster. The worst shooting rifle I've ever tried. So what's up? Everything functions perfectly but shot groups are more like skeet or trap. Groups (if they can be described as such) are mostly on the centerline but "stringing" from top left to bottom right. Something is definitely bad. The "groups" are all over the target as if something is loose and changes from group to group. I'm shooting at 50 yards. Trying to adjust the scope is a waste of time. I'm thinking the stock? Hogue says "bedding" adjustment should not be required, so I didn't so anything to the stock. The barrel is not free floating. The scope mount is a Weigand unit that makes the base and rings essentially one peice. It and the scope are rigid so I don't think that's the problem. Any suggestions from you folks that have built these "up graded" 10/22s would be much appreciated! Gerry
 

twriggen

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 5, 2002
Messages
171
Location
Idaho falls, ID
I have two 10/22s set up for my suppressor and also a M77/22.

IMG_0816.jpg


This one is pretty stock other than the stock and a Swamp Fox trigger group, a must on all 10/22s. It shoots good enough for my backpacking needs and has put many a squirrel into the frying pan.


IMG_5637.jpg


The second one is a 17 Mach II conversion and is getting threaded for the suppressor. This one is custom all the way around and she shoots REALLY good.


IMG_0813.jpg


The last one is my M77/22 and it was threaded for my 30 caliber suppressor instead of the 22 because it is heavier. This is a tack driving machine with the suppressor on. I swear it is more accurate with the suppressor on and the gophers don't stand a chance. This rifle is bone stock down to the factory trigger settings. This is the one I shoot the most and would be the last one I would get rid of. I know the 10/22 is less expensive but this can not be beat for accuracy and cost of shooting.

If the threading is not perfect and not centered on the bore it can cause the bullet to "tumble" after it leaves the barrel. A good gunsmith or machinist is worth the money.
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
9,165
Location
Greenville, SC: USA
i should look back and see what you did.... but...

you did all this to a new rifle with out trying it as factory?

stringing the way you are discribing is probably the scope but I'm not totally sure... I'd use iron sights first and also try different ammo.
 

MMichaelAK

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
361
Location
Alaska
Gerry,
what ammo are you shooting?

Are the shots randomly going one direction or running a string from one corner to the other?

My first thought would be the barrel. What barrel are you using?

Ruger hasn't said anything about what the torque specs are on the V block allen screws and if you got things a tiny bit cockeyed, between barrel and receiver or the screws are torqued way differently, that could be one reason you are stringing.

Eliminate the easy stuff first. Scope mounting screws tight and Locktited down, rings tight and Locktited down, and shoot with a known to you to be good scope. It may be a scop thing but if it's actually stringing and not just spattering the target, I'm less inclined to think scope.

Try a few standard velocity ammos, a few high vels and a few subsonic. See if it's an ammo thing. I have had a couple that were picky about feeding.

Sounds like a fun project. I know a lot of guys like the Volquartsen et al trigger groups but I have had great luck with the PC kits. I do like the spring kits too. They do make a difference IME.
 

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
I haven't shot this rifle with the supressor yet. The barrel is made by Shooters Ridge and is .920 and cut off and threaded by the class 3 dealer. It seems to be quality work. But.... As I said the "function" is 100% so I don't think I screwed up anything on the rebuild of the trigger group, etc. I am shooting CCI mini-mag ammo. I did shoot the rifle as it came from the factory with open sights and it did fine, except for the ten pound trigger. Torque specs on the barrel is a good point. I used the V Block screws to "draw" the barrel into the receiver, tightening a very little at a time from one screw to the other. This seemed to work out fine. (?) Is this a bad procedure? The scope "mounting" seems to be ok. It is a one-peice mount made by Weigand. The scope is a new Leupold fixed 6X. I think I will reinstall the factory barrel and stock. That will tell me if I have a scope problem I think. If it still shoots all over the place with the factory barrel and stock I'll change out the scope and see how that affects things. I'll also try different ammo. Thanks guys for the suggestions. I really want to get this thing to shoot nice tight groups. Gerry
 

Leucoandro

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
448
Location
Dededo, Guam
I like to try my rifle out as I make changes to track which changes do what.

My experience has been that if the barrel is locked correctly into the reciever, the barrel on the 10/22 does not need to be free floated. My 10/22 Bull barrel wears a Hogue stock, and it is not free floated, and very accurate with the right ammunition.

Question on the scope. When you sighted the rifle in with the scope, did you find you had to adjust the scope either up or down a great deal?

Question on the targets. Are the bullets punching typical holes, or do you notice any keyholing?

I think it could be several things.

- It could be the ammunition (this is where I would look first). I have found that my 10/22 with Green Mountain barrel likes Federal Auto-Match ammunition. My rifle used to shoot really well with Reminton bulk ammunition, but Remington bulk ammunition has fallen off in recent years, that is what prompted me to switch to Federal Auto-Match.

- It could be that when the Class III dealer cut your barrel, he made a mistake with the crown.

- It could be that you do not have the stock on tight enough, or you have it on too tight.

- It could be that your barrel is not in the reciever exactly perfect.

- It could be your Shooters Ridge Barrel.
 

gerryb158

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
173
Location
New Hampshire, USA
Well I guess this is the end of the story. Thanks to all who helped with suggestions on how to "fix" the problems with this rifle. We went to the range again today and low-and-behold the rifle shoots groups less than the size of a dime at 30 yards. I guess I was a bit dyslexic (?) the first time I tried to sight this rifle in. I disassembled it, found some molding roughness in the magazine box area. I smoothed it with a fine file and reassembled it carefully. I don't think these molding marks had anything to do with accuracy. But maybe how I assembled the stock to the action/barrel did. In any case, it's fixed! Shoots great! Using CCI standard velocity and Federal standard velocity ammo. The action works fine. The supressor is great! All is well! Thanks! Gerry
 

Latest posts

Top