Questions about my #1

[tek4260]

It has been several years since I took a #1 down. This is my latest and only #1 right now. This is just how I traded for it, complete with the heavy and worthless 6-18x50. This 220 Swift is a real tack driver. It would shoot 1" groups with factory loads despite having to lift the gun out of the bags to reload then having to try to get back in the same position for the next shot. Later, when I shot it from a rest that was tall enough to let me work the lever while leaving the gun in place, the groups shrank to about 3/8" for 3 @ 100 yds. I finally got around to taking some pictures tonight of what is under the forearm. First, the brass shim and screw. Is this stock? I don't recall seeing this on others I had. I know the bedding and fully floating forearm are smithed. The glass looks like hell, but it works apparently. Also, the trigger on this one is nice and crisp and releases at under 2 lbs. Will a factory trigger go that low or are there some tinkered with parts in there as well?

It shoots good now, but I am tempted to remove the shim and try it full floated. Of course, the groups may open up then and I may have a time testing different tension on the shim to get it back to where it is today.

 

[Anonymous]

First, the brass shim and screw. Is this stock?

No.

Also, the trigger on this one is nice and crisp and releases at under 2 lbs. Will a factory trigger go that low or are there some tinkered with parts in there as well?

The factory trigger and hammer have likely been re-worked for a pull that low.

It shoots good now, but I am tempted to remove the shim and try it full floated. Of course, the groups may open up then and I may have a time testing different tension on the shim to get it back to where it is today.

I don't understand your logic. If it shoots good now, why are you trying to undo that? :roll:

 

[308longdistance]

If I had a No.1 shooting 3/8" groups at 100 yards with factory loads, I don't think I'd be messing with it. Maybe a little load development.
:wink:

 

[gewehrfreund]

I would echo whqt others have said; if it shoots that good, leave it alone. I'd put the forearm back on and never remove it again, and try to forget that terrible, ugly "bedding" job.
Also, the scope is an abomination, but if you can get 3/8" groups with it maybe it should stay. Still it's worth trying a different scope that is more appropriate for the caliber and is more aesthetically in tune with the #1.
There is a slight chance that this gun has a "3 screw" Ruger trigger, which was discontinued around 1978. I'm not sure if the 220 Swift was already being made that early though. The serial number could tell.
The newer 2-screw triggers seem to be all over the map as they come from the factory; I have seen some nice ones and some that are ridiculous. They can be made to perform like yours, but it takes work by someone who really knows what they are doing.
Finally, that screw and metal pad ARE probably already acting to "free float" your barrel. At the very least, someone spent the time to find the harmonic sweet spot, free-floated or not. I'd leave it alone.
It's a nice, older #1, enjoy it.

 

[tek4260]

I know 3/8" center to center is pretty good, but its not touching. The last #1 Swift I had would make 3 shots into about a .308 cal hole. Of course it was a 1V. Wish I had never sold it, and wish this one would do as good.

 

[pete44ru]

Wishing won't make a lighter-barreled 1B into a HB 1V, no matter HOW hard you try. :roll:

Dance with who brung ya.

.

 

[Anonymous]

I know 3/8" center to center is pretty good, but its not touching. The last #1 Swift I had would make 3 shots into about a .308 cal hole. Of course it was a 1V. Wish I had never sold it, and wish this one would do as good.

You might as well just clean this one up and sell it and buy a 1V or trade it for a 1V. Because no matter what, you're never going to be satisfied with this rifle.

 

[wunbe]

The compulsion to tinker with near perfection is as powerful as any force in nature. Except for the regret at having given in to it.

Somebody put a lot of work into getting that rifle to perform as it does.

The forearm was obviously canted to one side out of the box. The nsightly fiber glass fixes that w/o showing.

The trigger is one of the later unadjustables. It was probably 4-6 lbs OoB.

The set screw in the hanger is anice job that gives you the option of adjusting the harmonics on barrel vibration to optimize accuracy. Bill Ruger never did that or anyone. The brass pad the screw rests on is a nice finishing touch. Some smiths do it the right way.

Reassmble it and count yourself lucky.

wunbe.

 

[63November]

The gold paint "leaf" inlay really is attractive with that Hubblicious scope. But then, purty is as purty does and it sounds like the old Swift shoots right purty.