Question for grip and knife makers

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collectormzornes

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I am wanting to add a set of medallions to a bone handle knife I was curious what size bit and what would the best bit be to use. The medallions are a set of Ruger grip medallions and is it just a simple drill and glue them in. Thanks for any and all the help
 
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I ordered a custom drill bit that's a form of a Forester (sp) bit long ago on the recommendation from CaryC to do it correctly. I have installed Ruger medallions in several grip panels since. The tool is well worth it.
I'll have to see if I can get it out & give you more info.
 
I use a counter bore with drill, but I don't have the size with me for the medallions. Something like this:

IMG_0122.png
 
I am wanting to add a set of medallions to a bone handle knife I was curious what size bit and what would the best bit be to use. The medallions are a set of Ruger grip medallions and is it just a simple drill and glue them in. Thanks for any and all the help
I use a 1/2" Forstner bit.
 
Ok, as I mentioned,, Cary V recommended the following tool for medallions when he was making grips.

From McMaster-Carr
"Changeable Counterbore pilot 1/8" shank diameter, 5/32" Pilot diameter."
"High Speed Steel changeable Pilot Counterbore 1/2" body Diameter 1/4" Shank diameter,
2-13/16" Overall."

P1040534.JPG
 
I believe that Forstner is a TYPE of bit that can be made by several companies (they create flat-bottom 'holes'). My Forstner bits are Ryobi and IIRC 1/2" is the size to use for Ruger medallions. One of the key difficulties (for me) was measuring in order to assure equal distances on both grip panels (for a revolver application). Being OCD, I used AcraGlas to secure the medallions (but even that method required a small hole in the medallion stem to assure a mechanical lock to secure the medallion (and sometimes a drill thru the panel and extend the AcraGlas to the other side for extra OCD fastening insurance (re: recoil). A good glue should work fine for your purposes as long as you aren't camping for weeks in sub-zero weather with no heat, and won't be using the knife :).

J.
 
This is something you must use a drill press and vise to do. Start the hole gently to minimize the chance of chipping the hole edges or burning the bone. Since your panels are likely curved, take that into account for alignment and depth you need to drill to. You may need to do a little blending in of high points around the perimeter of the medallion.

ETA: Mount the panel to a flat piece of 3/4" plywood that's a 1/4" or so larger than the panel all the way around with double sided tape. Mount the assembly in your vise so that it's perfectly level with the drill press table, and align the drill bit. Secure the vise to the table with a couple clamps, or bolts & nuts. so that nothing moves around when you start drilling.
 
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The bit I show above has a removable pilot to assure a center cut of the right diameter for the medallion stud. And if you are going to use a pair of pieces,, before any contouring of anything,, I cut a hole 1/2 the size of my pilot hole on both pieces at once. That way,, when I do get the grip shape close to what I desire,, I can use the bit shown & pilot guide in the first hole as a way to assure an identical placement on both panels.
And yes,, a drill press is necessary to get things square.
 
This is something I know a little about.
There is only one company that makes Forstner bits , and that is Forstner. They are by far the best flat bottom drill bit you can buy.
Anything else is a copy . There is a difference.
Yes , a drill press is needed to make precision holes.
 
This is something I know a little about.
There is only one company that makes Forstner bits , and that is Forstner. They are by far the best flat bottom drill bit you can buy.
Anything else is a copy . There is a difference.
Yes , a drill press is needed to make precision holes.
I'm sure you are correct.... but I have a set of Forstner bits that I bought at Hoe Depot packaged in a Ryobi package at Home Depot; that's all I know on the subject.

J.
 
I'm sure you are correct.... but I have a set of Forstner bits that I bought at Hoe Depot packaged in a Ryobi package at Home Depot; that's all I know on the subject.

J.
Every company today that makes flat bottom wood bits , call them Forstner bits.
They all have a different cutting edge.

Benjamin Forstner invented the flat bottom bit in 1886.
Lots of companies make flat bottom bits today , and they all call them Forstner.
They are not the same.
 
YUP, I sorta figured that 👆
For the type of mediocre work that I do, it really doesn't matter.....
J.
 
The bit & pilot set I showed above is not called a Forstner by McMaster-Carr. The interesting part is the way it uses a removable pilot to assure a correct hole diameter for whatever purpose you seek. In the case of this cutter,, you match the pilot with the stud size, and the cutter diameter to your purposes.

I like precision tools,, and the one I have is just that. And if it was good enough for Cary to make his STUNNING grips,, (that have become desirable to many) I figured it'd be the best tool to use for me.
I've cut several medallion holes & have never had any problems.
 
This is something I know a little about.
There is only one company that makes Forstner bits , and that is Forstner. They are by far the best flat bottom drill bit you can buy.
Anything else is a copy . There is a difference.
Yes , a drill press is needed to make precision holes.

One thing I'd add to all this for folks not familiar with precision work is to practice on some scrap material before diving straight in to the job on irreplaceable work pieces like the bone grips the OP is contemplating. That can really ruin your day.

In his case a piece of hard maple roughly shaped the same as the grips, including any curvature, would suffice. Or a bone from the local butcher shop.
 
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