Problem.

[Tellico]

I bought the .30 Carbine 4 5/8th barrelled 3 screw I mentioned before and have a small problem with it. I have never run into this before and don't know how to correct it. As usual I will need to rely on the vast Forum knowledge base. The little gun is a blast to shoot (pun intended), but the loading gate is too snug against the cyl. and opens when the case rim rubs as the cyl. turns. Should I remove a bit from the front of the gate? Do I need a new gate? I can push the gate to the rear but it doesn't stay of course. The spring seems a bit weak that holds the gate shut but it does not open on firing. Thanks.
Fred

 

[DGW1949]

What I'd do:
Check to make sure that the gate-plunger is actually in the gun.
Inspect the plunger spring and compare it against a "known good" spring.
inspect the detent on the loading-gate shaft. If it is worn out, it will need repaired or the gate replaced. If there aint no detent, then somebody has installed a NM gate into your gun....which BTW, will fit...but...exhibits the very symptoms you are seeing.
If all the parts appear to be in-spec, it could be that all ya need to do is adjust the spring tension by screwing-in the retainer a bit more.

Hope this helps.

DGW

 

[Tellico]

What I'd do:
Check to make sure that the gate-plunger is actually in the gun.
Inspect the plunger spring and compare it against a "known good" spring.
inspect the detent on the loading-gate shaft. If it is worn out, it will need repaired or the gate replaced. If there aint no detent, then somebody has installed a NM gate into your gun....which BTW, will fit...but...exhibits the very symptoms you are seeing.
If all the parts appear to be in-spec, it could be that all ya need to do is adjust the spring tension by screwing-in the retainer a bit more.

Hope this helps.

DGW

Thanks DGW,
I have made sure the retainer was screwed in tight. I have not compared the spring. I will have to get a new one. The sides of the detents look sharp and not worn but it could be a different gate? I will try to buy a loading gate and a new spring I guess as I kind of like the gun and I already polished the grip frame and replace the GF screws with stainless and epoxy impregnated the grip where they had pulled the nut too hard. I also got the white paint off the sights so that I can see them now. Both the front and rear were painted white?
Fred

 

[Hondo44]

Fred,

The gate fits to well too be from a different gun from the view that you show above.

In your response to DGW, you didn't mention the detent plunger.
Is the gate detent plunger in place? Sometimes they get left out. It goes against the gate shaft 1st, then the spring, then the retaining screw.

A replacement gate will never fit as well as yours since they are individually polished to match the frames.

 

[Tellico]

Fred,

The gate fits to well to be from a different gun from the view that you show above.

In your response to DGW, you didn't mention the detent plunger.
Is the gate detent plunger in place? Sometimes they get left out. It goes against the gate shaft 1st, then the spring, then the retaining screw.

A replacement gate will never fit as well as yours since they are individually polished to match the frames.

Hi Hondo44,
Yes, when the gate is pushed back it fits great! The plunger is in first then the spring and the screw. The plunger has a very light radius on what I assume would go against the gate shaft. I think after all that I may remove a tiny bit of material from the front face of the gate and blue that surface. I will get a new spring and try that first and maybe a plunger too. The gate is starting to turn plum as is the frame and they match up well in color.
Thank you,
Fred

 

[Hondo44]

Hi Fred,

The radiused end of the detent plunger against the gate shaft allows the gate to have more lateral movement. I always install the plunger with the square end against the gate shaft. The sharp corner will fit against the shoulder on the gate shaft and minimize lateral movement. It may not be correct according to the Ruger design but I prefer it that way for just the very issue that you describe.

Then I would check it: Remove the cylinder. With gate closed, push it forward from the rear and observe how much forward lateral play you have w/o it being stopped by the cylinder.

Hope that helps.

 

[rugerguy]

he could have "excessive" play in the cutout of the loading gate itself OR even in the hole location of the cylinder frame. Wouldn't be the first gate that we've had to 'recut ( reface) that was too close, especially with the 30 carbines, they are "headspace" sensitive, and can misfire more easily............often "see" drag marks on the recoil shield, the OMs had relativel "rough" facing of the shields,we see lots of file marks in their fitting from time to time...... :roll:

that is a good trick with upending the plug, helps "take up space" and does work.....can you take as GOOD a picture of the loading gate "stud"? (what goes back, into the frame) you did a great job on the closeup of the outside surface of the gun. :wink:

 

[Tellico]

he could have "excessive" play in the cutout of the loading gate itself OR even in the hole location of the cylinder frame. Wouldn't be the first gate that we've had to 'recut ( reface) that was too close, especially with the 30 carbines, they are "headspace" sensitive, and can misfire more easily............often "see" drag marks on the recoil shield, the OMs had relativel "rough" facing of the shields,we see lots of file marks in their fitting from time to time...... :roll:

that is a good trick with upending the plug, helps "take up space" and does work.....can you take as GOOD a picture of the loading gate "stud"? (what goes back, into the frame) you did a great job on the closeup of the outside surface of the gun. :wink:

Thanks, that is my first "good" picture with this camera. My fault not the cameras. I will try to get a good one of the "stud" when I take the plug out to turn it over and install a new spring. I have to get a new spring first or can I stretch the spring a tad?
Fred

 

[Hondo44]

Fred,

The retaining screw is adjustable so I would just tighten it. That's one heavy spring and I've never had to replace one on a Ruger.

 

[Tellico]

Fred,

The retaining screw is adjustable so I would just tighten it. That's one spring and I've never had to replace one on a Ruger.

Well the screw was tight but I do not know if it is the right spring. It is pretty stout though.

 

[Hondo44]

Still no cure; plunger turned over and screw tight??

 

[Tellico]

Still no cure; plunger turned over and screw tight??

I haven't had a chance to work on it yet. I am pretty slow :lol: Might be a day or two or I may get a new spring before I take it apart. I need to buy a set of those grip screws for working on Blackhawks I guess.
Fred

 

[Tellico]

Hi Hondo44 and rugerguy,
Well I told you I was pretty slow. :lol: I took the gun apart today (at last) and cleaned out the holes in the frame. Lots of crap. Polished the plunger around the outside, polished the spring lightly and turned the plunger square side up against the gate. The gate looked OK with only a tad of wear on the corner between the two 90 deg. flats. Put her back together and loaded 5. The cylinder spins free and the gate has more detent. I think all is well in .30 Carbine land now. I will have to go shoot it to be sure. No telling how long that will be as the Trout are biting good in the Bitterroot River.
Thanks for the help!
Fred

 

[Hondo44]

Glad to hear it Fred, thx for the update. Hook one for me!

 

[rugerguy]

sounds REAL good to us, as noted, one never knows till they actually take it apart, look at things clean things up and "see" what happens..yes, they DO hang up, YES, the button ( followers) DO "stick", allows the gate to "wobble, slip around, come off its 'track, whatever..........now enjoy !!!