Problem(?) With New Mark III

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Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
8
I just returned from taking my brand-new-out-of-the box Mark III to the range, and am trying to decide if I've got a problem child. I only had time to fire 80 rounds (CCI Mini-Mags) and had no failures to feed nor to extract but had a bunch of failures to fire. Several times it seemed like if I "milked" the trigger a couple of times it would go ahead and fire. Does this sound pretty common? This is my first rim-fire pistol so I'm not really sure. The RSO at the range said that .22s typically need 3-400 rounds through them before they "loosen up". Any thoughts?
 

96/44

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 23, 2009
Messages
548
I don't know if you did or not, but break the pistol down and clean all the factory oil/preservative off of it and lightly oil it. If that doesn't work, try some different ammo, rimfires tend to be picky. I wouldn't blame the pistol just yet, give it a few hundred rounds to break in.
 
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
8
96/44":38fgxwln said:
I don't know if you did or not, but break the pistol down and clean all the factory oil/preservative off of it and lightly oil it. If that doesn't work, try some different ammo, rimfires tend to be picky. I wouldn't blame the pistol just yet, give it a few hundred rounds to break in.

No, I haven't torn it down. Is it as much of a nightmare as some people say? (I've got of gotten spoiled disassembling a Bersa Thunder .380.)
 

talldrink

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
31
Hurryin' Hoosier":er9hmy67 said:
96/44":er9hmy67 said:
I don't know if you did or not, but break the pistol down and clean all the factory oil/preservative off of it and lightly oil it. If that doesn't work, try some different ammo, rimfires tend to be picky. I wouldn't blame the pistol just yet, give it a few hundred rounds to break in.

No, I haven't torn it down. Is it as much of a nightmare as some people say? (I've got of gotten spoiled disassembling a Bersa Thunder .380.)

Your gonna have to do it sooner or later. Might as well jump in head first. :) It really isn't that bad. Even thought the vid on Rugers site makes it seem like there are about a bazillion steps to break down/assemble once you understand the final step of the "dingle berry" from the link that gusso posted it'll be no problem. The only thing that I will say is that some barrels/recievers are much more difficult to remove from the lower than in the video. My MKII takes a couple very stout whacks to release it from the lower.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
21,022
Welcome to the Forum!
First,, it could be the ammo,, or it could be factory grease/crud causing light strikes etc.
As for the disassembly,, not too hard. Re-assembly,,,,,, a whole 'nother ballgame,, for a person new to 22 rimfires. It CAN cause a LOT of frustration,,, And it is DIFFERENT than the MKII,, so make sure you read the manuel,,, & check into all the videos etc you can about re-assembly before you tear it apart. Pay close attention to how it feels & looks before you start the disassembly. One thing that I do that keeps me from some frustration. The hammer strut,, is the main issue,, and if it's not right,, can be a rosie o'donnell. So,, I tell all new owners of MKI's MKII's & MKIII's,,, a final thing to check before you snap the take down lever back into place.
When you first start the disassembly,, after you've check it to make SURE it's unloaded,, & you've pulled the trigger to release the hammer tension,,,YOu get a paperclip to pull out the locking lever in the take down lever. Once it's folded out,, NOTICE THE FACT THAT THE TAKEDOWN LEVER HAS SPRUNG OUT AWAY FROM THE MAINFRAME ABOUT 1/8TH TO 1/4". jUST PRESS ON IT TO FEEL THE SPRING TENSION. Now,, REMEMBER that feeling,, so when you get it back together,, you press it to see if you have the same spring tension before you lock it back in place.
Just a little tip,,,,!
 
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
8
Having now put some 250 rounds through her, my little "Ruger Luger" is getting pretty well loosened-up. Out of the last 4 magazines today, all went perfectly except for one "stove pipe", which could have been a fluke.

As to cleaning, I guess I'm going to be a heretic. Several knowledgeable folks have advised me against tearing it down and a couple of them suggested an occasional flushing-out of the works with carbruator cleaner (equipped with a "straw") followed by a good spray of Break-Free (also the straw-equipped aerosol) and a good cleaning and light oiling of the barrel.
 

berettapistols

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
655
I wouldn't spray oil in the action..
This will attract rubbish & clog up the works..
For sure you need to remove the mainspring and bolt & while your that far you might as well remove the barrel/reciever & clean it up realy well..
Here's a great link to Bullseye's Forum that has a nice pictorial & step bye step instructions for MKIIIs.. There's other links that go farther into the disassembly of the MKIIIs there as well..
http://guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm
 
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
8
berettapistols":2c7cdwhq said:
I wouldn't spray oil in the action..
This will attract rubbish & clog up the works..
For sure you need to remove the mainspring and bolt & while your that far you might as well remove the barrel/reciever & clean it up realy well..
Here's a great link to Bullseye's Forum that has a nice pictorial & step bye step instructions for MKIIIs.. There's other links that go farther into the disassembly of the MKIIIs there as well..
http://guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm

Okay. Upon the advise of a fellow "Kentucianain", I might try it. Let me get a couple of shots of Jameson's in me, first! :wink:
 

berettapistols

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Messages
655
Hey Hoosier I grew up in Southern Indiana about a mile from Louisville in Clarksville..

You may have to use a wooden dowel to coax the mainspring assembly out & back in when there new they can be a bit of trouble..
The main problem most folks have is when you pull the bolt out it cocks the hammer & when you installing the mainspring the hammer needs to be upright against the bolt, You'll have to insert an empty mag pull the trigger & take a small tool & push the hammer up first..
Follow the links on that webpage..
 

raw6464

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 12, 2008
Messages
85
Watch the field strip videos until you understand the architecture of the gun, especially the hammer strut area and the gun can be taken down with only a paper clip and no tools. It's not a bear if you understand it. The owners manual might as well be written in hieroglyphics if you've never had the gun apart on looked inside yourself.

It's so easy even a cave man could do it.
 

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