NikA
Hunter
I made mine out of a beer can. Helps to have a pattern (think I had an example from a different manufacturer and traced it), but I'd bet it wouldn't be too hard to draw an ellipse and go from there.
Powder measure opinions
- Thread starter Mobuck
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No, your measure was "cutting" powder granules to give you the precise powder charge that the measure was set at.
Its hard to go wrong with an RCBS Uniflow powder measure. The Hornady Lock N Load measure with its quick change powder metering insert and its ability to adapt over to automatic throw is a very good measure as well. So is the Dillon measure that will operate automatically but it has not quick change metering inserts.
Notice the button on the Hornady on the left side of the drum, this is to release the quick change metering insert. No more constantly readjusting your measure for different settings or calibers. You just buy more metering inserts.
Notice the button on the Hornady on the left side of the drum, this is to release the quick change metering insert. No more constantly readjusting your measure for different settings or calibers. You just buy more metering inserts.
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Crockett12
Bearcat
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2017
- Messages
- 91
I have 3 different powder measures plus a Dillon 650 press. I dropped a number of charges (don't remember which ball powder but probably H-110) from my RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure, Redding Model 3 and Redding BR30 and the powder bar on the Dillon 650! I was surprised to find the Dillon to be far more accurate to an uncanny degree with the RCBS the least accurate!
From least to best:
RCBS (least)
Redding Model 3
Redding BR30
Dillon small powder bar (best)
From least to best:
RCBS (least)
Redding Model 3
Redding BR30
Dillon small powder bar (best)
I have 3 Reddings and a Hornady. The Redding I first bought was a BR30 way back and was my mainstay powder measure. It's sweet spot was 30 grains for 223 base cartridges. I would double throw for 308 and 30-06 cases with stick powders. Go once through all 50 in my load block then go back through again. That gave me very consistant results with stick powders.Them I have niw a PR 50 for 308 and 30-06 and a Compitition 10x for pistols. For large capacity I use a Hornady but I made my own plunger, concave instead of using the convex factory one. My Redding measures will thow ball powders exact.
I can weigh 5 throws out of 50 rds, which I do to double check and they are the same. Small grain stick pretty dang close. I load lots of precise ammo and use 50 rd blocks. It is rhythm and consistent throws. It is as much as the way you use the measure as it is the measures accuracy and baffle placement. This is my set up.
I have used RCBS and they worked very well it is I just like the Reddings for my consistency.
I can weigh 5 throws out of 50 rds, which I do to double check and they are the same. Small grain stick pretty dang close. I load lots of precise ammo and use 50 rd blocks. It is rhythm and consistent throws. It is as much as the way you use the measure as it is the measures accuracy and baffle placement. This is my set up.
I have used RCBS and they worked very well it is I just like the Reddings for my consistency.
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I noticed you have your baffles sitting higher than others. Wondering how much of a difference that makes?
I don't know but for me and the way I throw the charge it works for me. When I had my ammunition FFL that BR30 got a work out. I tend to keep the hopper full also after 50 rounds. For some stick powders I might put a drop tube extension or attach a funnel next the drop tube to swirl the powder in the case as it is dropped.
How I do my throws I used to have a 1x4 pine board mounting my measure to it. I thought I was going to fancy up my bench so I put a 1x8 oak piece on it. Never had a problem with throwing a 42.5 grain charge of R19 in my 220 Swift. All of a sudden it wouldn't flow in the case. The only difference i could figure was the slight vibration that the pune allowed vs the solid oak. That is when I put the funnel under it and all was well. Used that same set up for a 17 Rem and IMR4320. Funny how things work sometimes.
How I do my throws I used to have a 1x4 pine board mounting my measure to it. I thought I was going to fancy up my bench so I put a 1x8 oak piece on it. Never had a problem with throwing a 42.5 grain charge of R19 in my 220 Swift. All of a sudden it wouldn't flow in the case. The only difference i could figure was the slight vibration that the pune allowed vs the solid oak. That is when I put the funnel under it and all was well. Used that same set up for a 17 Rem and IMR4320. Funny how things work sometimes.
Most of my RCBS measrues were made back in the 60's when Fred Huntington owned the company and they are very accurate. I must say that people tend to worry about things that often do not amount to a hill of beans. Powder is not 100 percent uniform and even if you hand weigh out 10 charges and then chronograph them, none of them will usually be duplicates in velocity.
I can see a benchrest shooters wanting to eliminate all the variables, I have done it myself but the average guy shoots for fun or shoots for meat and minute of deer is all one really needs.
I remember when I first started handloading in the 60's and I weighed out by hand powder charges and then also used charges thrown by powder measures of various brands. There was no difference in accuracy that I could see with a sporter rifle that amounted to much of anything. Even hand weighed charges varied as much as charges thrown by powder measures when I chronographed loads. Course stick powder was the worst offender and ball powder the more forgiving but not by much. And course stick powder often gave as good as accuracy as ball powder which metered more uniformly.
Wow. I am not saying you are wrong at all. But I think I am going to do what you did and find out the hard way. It just seems as if one weighs each charge things would be more consistent with velocities than just using a powder thrower.
Throwing two charges to reach the load seems counterproductive. When throwing larger charges of stick powder, I found consistency increased when I tapped the side of the measure cavity X times with my finger to settle the charge. This DOES work but must be relatively consistent for each throw of the measure.
It has been purported by many that smaller cavities are more accurate, so throwing 2 half charges in the pistol cylinder should be more accurate than one large charge from the rifle cylinder. So the story goes.
In my own experience throwing two charges doubles tha error you already have when throwing one charge.
Paul B
Hunter
Keep it simple. I made baffles out of well cleaned beer cans. Actually, I cleaned the baffle after I made them.
Paul B.
Paul B
Hunter
Depends on the cartridge you're charging. Some cartridges take well over 100 gr. of powder. With the proper rifle, you can load the .416 Rigby using .416 Weatherby data. That's something like 115 gr. of powder under a 400 gr. bullet. While I do not try to attain Weatherby velocity from my Ruger #1, it certain can handle the load. However, it and my .404 Jeffery kick hard enough as is.
Doble charging a cartridge like the 30-06 may of may not be a waste of time and energy. Just something someone would have to experiment with and judge the results for him or herself.
Paul B.
I read a article in Varmint Hunter magazine that did a comparison between weight vs volume. I will have to find that and read it. I have come to my conclusion if I am getting 10-15 fps extreme spread and sd in the 5s things must be working good. I can say though at times some of my best groups at 100 yards the spread was 100fps. This is why now when I develop a load it is at 200 for groups.
It is the law of averages. Hitting the sweet spot of the measure. Throwing charge of powder is just as much as whatever technique you develop that works for.
It is the law of averages. Hitting the sweet spot of the measure. Throwing charge of powder is just as much as whatever technique you develop that works for.
One of the things I like best about the Lyman 55 is the "knocker". You get a rhythm going, knock on the upstroke to settle the charge and knock on the downstroke to make sure all the powder leaves the tube. Very consistent!
jgt
Buckeye
I use a Redding BR30 and Lyman 55 along with a couple of Belding and Mull powder measures. I have a little Hornady measure that uses bushing for some pistol loads.
woodperson
Single-Sixer
I use a RCBS Uniflow and a Redding 30. Both work flawlessly with no quirks.
