P89 grip screw stripped!

[WayniacKT]

One on the grip screw receivers on my P89 stripped out on me.
The screw is fine but the threads on the gun is stripped. I currently have the screw set with some strong thread-tight but its not going to hold.
Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? I could re-thread it but then i will never find a screw to fit that matches the grip screw.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Cheers,

 

[mactex]

If heli-coil, or a similar product, makes a thread repairer that small I'd go that route. Or, take it to a gun smith. The whole could be filled and then retapped.

 

[Spike12]

Depending on how bad you've reamed the hole you can sometimes get away with re-taping it.

No, it won't be a strong as original but hey, it's only grip panels.

 

[9isFine]

Find a metal shop experienced in aluminum welding and have the hole welded shut and re tapped.....or heli-coil.. I would go with the weld and tap.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

One on the grip screw receivers on my P89 stripped out on me.
The screw is fine but the threads on the gun is stripped. I currently have the screw set with some strong thread-tight but its not going to hold.
Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? I could re-thread it but then i will never find a screw to fit that matches the grip screw.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Oh no!
The same thing just happened to me. I was gonna start a new thread but saw this. Well I didn't notice it at first, but it actually started the last time I field stripped my P89 for cleaning. It didn't feel quite right. But I didn't think much of it. Now this most recent time the screw keeps turning. I didn't feel like I had overtightened it by any means.

 

[Spike12]

There's another way... This is common practice among boat people and I've used it myself....

1) Drill the hole out a little over size
2) DEGREASE the area very well.
3) Plug the back side (mag well in this case). Usually a piece of duct tape works best.
4) Fill the hole with epoxy. Use a good quality like West. Not Hope Depot, $0.29 good deal, all in two tubes crap.
5) After curing, drill and tap.

I've used this practice to make/fix rudder bearings, bond bolts to the deck, etc.

 

[reakin]

You could try the old fishing line in the hole trick. Not a permanent solution though.

reakin

 

[graygun]

Spike12: Where is West sold? Is it better than JB Weld or Marine Tex?

OP: Hope your repair is successful.

 

[Spike12]

West Systems epoxy is usually sold via marine stores but you can certainly order it on-line from places like West Marine. For small jobs you can buy just their small 'repair pak'.

Marine Tek is not as strong, IMHO. I has a lot of filler and for a job like this you want full strength. I've never really liked or felt it did any better at anything that I could with West and their different fillers. I suppose I'm on my 5 gallon or so by now and I've used on 4 different boat rebuilding projects. It really *is* a complete system with all their different fillers to tailor the mixture to the specific type of job you're doing. BE SURE TO RTFM!!! You can't cheat with epoxy like you can with polyester bondo.

Dunno about JB Weld.

 

[graygun]

OP: Tell us how your repair goes,if you don't mind.

Spike12: Tks...I'll try some.

 

[ab4ka]

wouldn't Red Loc-Tite work? I managed to strip one of the scope rail screws on my 10/22 and I used some blue Loc-tite and it hasn't come loose yet.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

wouldn't Red Loc-Tite work? I managed to strip one of the scope rail screws on my 10/22 and I used some blue Loc-tite and it hasn't come loose yet.

The red loc-tite route is the one i'm leaning towards for my fix, actually checked into it last week.

I coat the screw in loc-tite and let it harden before trying to tighten it again?

 

[ab4ka]

it just takes a little...don't use too much. Just put a dab on the screw and put it right in, then let give it 24 hours.

 

[TruthNotRelative]

Here's my idea, order a NICE set of Sig (Or whatever brand looks like it would fit) Stainless hex panel screws, drill out the hole the appropriate size, and re-thread the hole to fit the Sig Screw. That way you get a NICE set of SS Hex Screws too. I've tried in VAIN to find custom Ruger P screws, ain't happenin'.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

Here's my idea, order a NICE set of Sig (Or whatever brand looks like it would fit) Stainless hex panel screws, drill out the hole the appropriate size, and re-thread the hole to fit the Sig Screw. That way you get a NICE set of SS Hex Screws too. I've tried in VAIN to find custom Ruger P screws, ain't happenin'.

But thats SOO much mony for such an inexpensive gun... would the end really justify the means? Financially speaking of course...

Don't get me wrong, that is a GOOD idea. But its only a P89...

The stainless allen screws are pretty high, then of course you have to pay a gunsmith to re-tap the holes, this isn't cheap.

 

[TruthNotRelative]

Who needs a gun-smith? That's a do-it-yourself job. Gun-smith? We don't need no stinking gun-smith! I thought everyone had a tap and die set :?

 

[Spike12]

not so expensive....

You can buy the drill and tap at Sears for under $10. You already have the holes located, just drill them with a hand drill. Go slow with the tap and you're done.

You can buy SS screws all day long for less than 20 cents for small quanity. The deal would be finding larger screws (you can't make the holes in the frame smaller) that will still fit the grips.

 

[TruthNotRelative]

"not so expensive....

You can buy the drill and tap at Sears for under $10. You already have the holes located, just drill them with a hand drill. Go slow with the tap and you're done.

You can buy SS screws all day long for less than 20 cents for small quanity. The deal would be finding larger screws (you can't make the holes in the frame smaller) that will still fit the grips."

Exactly!

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

I stand corrected then :wink:

 

[Dawg1]

Look into www.aluminumrepair.com , used in auto repair. Fill in hole,drill,then tap,good as new.