Hondo44
Hawkeye
Coyote,
That was a great post on the USFA forum. I forgot I'm a member and haven't been there for awhile. I posted about the hammer side chaffing and below as well. Hope it's helpful.
Re: chaffed hammer sides:
There are several standard things I do to any brand single action I buy, new or used. I take 'em apart as soon as I get home. Besides the usual deburring, cleaning, polishing, trigger pull tuning, spring changes if needed, etc., I do at least two more critical things:
1.) Polish both sides of the hammer channel with 2000 grit paper and a small flat steel sanding block. If there's obvious machining burrs on the edges, those are removed 1st. Then touch up with Brownell's Oxpho bluing creme, the best cold blue on the market in my experience. If the hammer sides are not case colored I use the 2000 paper on them as well to take out the course sanding marks. Those two things usually eliminate all hammer contact/chaffing. If it doesn't, so be it, it's honest wear. But I gave it my best shot.
2.) Polish the cylinder bolt head that sticks thru the frame and contacts the cylinder surface/notches. Invariably it has tool marks on its surface and knife-like edges that cut thru the cylinder bluing like a file! Even with lighter spring tension. 1st the 2000 paper and then a felt buffing wheel in a dremel tool with Stainless steel white rouge. Of course if the bolt is not tracking down the center of the approach to the cylinder notch, now is the time for slight reshaping. Eventually the blue will still wear but no need to do it the 1st day or take metal with it!
One other problem I've had to correct on new Ruger single actions: when the loading gate is swung open it contacts the frame surface down close to the pivot point. Current production comes with a rough cast surface on the loading gate at the point of contact with the frame. After two or three openings, there is a white spot on the frame that stands out like a turd in the punch bowl where that rough cast surface has peened right thru the bluing and actually pock marked the frame surface.
You can't keep them from showing wear but they don't need to wear themselves out.
That was a great post on the USFA forum. I forgot I'm a member and haven't been there for awhile. I posted about the hammer side chaffing and below as well. Hope it's helpful.
Re: chaffed hammer sides:
There are several standard things I do to any brand single action I buy, new or used. I take 'em apart as soon as I get home. Besides the usual deburring, cleaning, polishing, trigger pull tuning, spring changes if needed, etc., I do at least two more critical things:
1.) Polish both sides of the hammer channel with 2000 grit paper and a small flat steel sanding block. If there's obvious machining burrs on the edges, those are removed 1st. Then touch up with Brownell's Oxpho bluing creme, the best cold blue on the market in my experience. If the hammer sides are not case colored I use the 2000 paper on them as well to take out the course sanding marks. Those two things usually eliminate all hammer contact/chaffing. If it doesn't, so be it, it's honest wear. But I gave it my best shot.
2.) Polish the cylinder bolt head that sticks thru the frame and contacts the cylinder surface/notches. Invariably it has tool marks on its surface and knife-like edges that cut thru the cylinder bluing like a file! Even with lighter spring tension. 1st the 2000 paper and then a felt buffing wheel in a dremel tool with Stainless steel white rouge. Of course if the bolt is not tracking down the center of the approach to the cylinder notch, now is the time for slight reshaping. Eventually the blue will still wear but no need to do it the 1st day or take metal with it!
One other problem I've had to correct on new Ruger single actions: when the loading gate is swung open it contacts the frame surface down close to the pivot point. Current production comes with a rough cast surface on the loading gate at the point of contact with the frame. After two or three openings, there is a white spot on the frame that stands out like a turd in the punch bowl where that rough cast surface has peened right thru the bluing and actually pock marked the frame surface.
You can't keep them from showing wear but they don't need to wear themselves out.
