OLD Model SBH ins and outs

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375_H&H_Mag

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 19, 2009
Messages
33
Location
North Louisiana
Can someone give me a brief introduction on how to operate this Super Blackhawk 44 Mag.
I know that the gun is loaded at half cock and cylinder rotated until capacity is reached and, in the sake of safety, one chamber left empty with hammer down.

Not to be a bother here, but I want to know how to use this thing RIGHT and SAFELY, and ensure that I do not harm the gun in any way. Thanks so much for all who will offer some advice.

This thing is a beast compared to my 686 Smith .357 :twisted:
 

c.r.

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
436
Location
Texas
when loading one of the old model ruger try this:
pull the hammer to half cock. load one chamber, skip one, load the next 4 chambers. then pull the hammer to full cock and then lower. this will place an empty chamber under the hammer.

also, anytime you place the hammer on half cock, always pull to full cock prior to allowing the hammer to lowering the hammer to rest on the firing pin. this process will prevent a ring appearing on the cylinder along/between the cylinder notches.

I'm sure somebody else will come along with some more tips. Congrats on a great gun and welcome to the forum.

~c.r.
 

flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Location
Star Valley, WY
Kudos to you for asking!

Beast? Yeah, with "full house" loads, especially with 300 grain bullets, you've got a "tiger by the tail" with most any single action.

I've grown fond of the Past brand of shooting gloves.....

flatgate
 

boomslang

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
70
Location
Charlotte, North Carolina
Some people complain of the square back trigger guard. Says that using full house load it bites them. I have never experienced this. I think people with thick fingers and hands get bit more. Something to think about.
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,654
Location
Kentucky
Good advice above.

Try some .44 Special ammo or "cowboy" loads for a while until you get used to the ergonomics and recoil pattern. And consider reloading if you don't already do so.

:D
 

J Miller

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 30, 2000
Messages
977
Location
Not in IL anymore ... :)
Here is a little thing I wrote some time back on this subject.

HOW TO PROPERLY LOAD AND UNLOAD SINGLE ACTION REVOLVERS
AND PREVENT FULL CIRCUMFERENCE DRAG LINES

Posted on THR 5-27-05 by J Miller
(Edited and updated 12-14-08)

In here is a way to work the action of original "COLT" design single actions to prevent full circumference drag lines. And also some instructions to prevent them on New Model Rugers.
Of course this requires you to first purchase a gun that has NO drag marks, or get your marred cylinder reblued.

To properly load an OLD STYLE single action revolver, (This includes all unconverted Old Model Rugers, Colts, Colt copies, Remington originals and copies, Great Westerns, Interarms Virginian Dragoons, and many others):
>Pull hammer to half cock.
>Open loading gate.
>Rotate cylinder to load or unload; LOAD one (1), SKIP one (1), LOAD four (4).
>Close the loading gate
>Leaving the cylinder in this position, in other words do not turn it, pull the hammer all the way back to full cock and then with your thumb holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer to rest.
The hammer will then be resting over an empty chamber.

Doing this will also index the cylinder so that the cylinder latch (bolt) does not drag on the cylinder as it rotates. If for some reason you have to interrupt your loading sequence, or lower the hammer at the wrong time, DO NOT TURN the cylinder as the bolt has risen up and is pressing against it. Turing the cylinder at this time will cause drag marks. To get the cylinder back to it's locked position without creating a drag mark, simply pull the hammer back to full cock and lower it. This will put everything back in sequence.

To demonstrate this for those not familiar with how to handle the old type SA revolvers, I will follow the above directions and then point the gun at a target and pull the trigger. IF I followed the directions all you will hear is a dull thwack. If it fires, I did something wrong. Most of the time the neophytes jump out of their boots when the hammer goes thwack.
To load or unload a New Model Ruger Blackhawk:
>Flip open the loading gate.
>Load or unload the cylinder.
>Gently hold the cylinder with the flutes centered on both sides of the frame window and close the loading gate. The latch will rise up into its notch almost every time.
>If it has a flute less cylinder, locate the upper most latch (bolt) notches equally on either side of the top strap and close the loading gate. With practice you'll be able to center the cylinder every time.

To load or unload a New Model Bearcat or a converted Old Model Ruger SA:
>Pull hammer to half cock.
>Open loading gate.
(If you want to load five:)
>Rotate cylinder to load or unload; LOAD one (1), SKIP one (1), LOAD four (4).
>Close loading gate
>Leaving the cylinder in this position, in other words do not turn it, pull the hammer all the way back to full cock and then with your thumb holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer to rest.
The hammer will then be resting over an empty chamber.
(If you want to load six:)
>Rotate cylinder to load or unload.
>Pull the hammer all the way back to full cock and then with your thumb holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer to rest. After the hammer passes the half cock notch you can release the trigger and the transfer bar will drop away from the firing pin.

CLCyellowedAMHollygrips12-23-06b_we.jpg

Notice the cylinder on my Old Model Ruger BH. This is a replacement cylinder, but it has several thousand rounds through it, and untold thousands of dry cycling and hours of handling. Yet, it has NO drag line. So, if you follow my instructions, you can reduce or eliminate the full circumference drag lines on your single action revolvers.

Now, before you assume I'm an arrogant old codger let me tell you this. When I was a teenager in the mid 1960s, I spent many days lounging around The Gun Room, formerly Wades Gun Room in Phoenix, AZ talking to the OLD guys that ran and worked in the place. By old I mean one or two of them were in their 60s then. Meaning they were using single and double action revolvers when the west was still wild. Well it still is, but now we have too many government obstructions to things. Anyway, these experienced shootists taught me the proper way to handle both the single and double action revolvers so the drag lines were prevented. It's not in any book. I don't even think Kuhnhausen has it in any of his books. S&W and Colt don't show it in their owners' manuals, but these methods work. Like JoeD from Handloads.Com said, they won't make sense until you do them as you read the instructions.

Joe



And the SBH square back grip frame does not "bite" me, it pulverizes my knuckles. Black, blue, purple, and red. I might as well beat on my fingers with a 16 oz framing hammer.

Joe
 

375_H&H_Mag

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 19, 2009
Messages
33
Location
North Louisiana
Are there any upgrades you guys might recommend. I have seen that some replace the base pin with a belt mountain. Why if it is not worn? Does it provide tighter tolerances and better cylinder alignment? How do you guys feel about the "Poor Man's Trigger Job"?

Thank you to everyone who has posted as the info is appreciated and will make my transition from DA to Tradtional SA much more enjoyable, safe, and ensuring of the preservation of the firearm and my safety.

Regards
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,654
Location
Kentucky
If it ain't broke, why fix it? Seriously, shoot your new toy for a while and see if there's anything that bothers you about it, and then ask us about it. Some things are just "the nature of the beast".

The "poor man's trigger job" is only done on New Models.

:D
 

JNewell

Single-Sixer
Joined
Oct 12, 2001
Messages
250
I second all above, especially the load one, skip one, load four rule and the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' theory. The OMs are special. Enjoy it (as if you needed any encouragement) !
 

bisleyfan41

Blackhawk
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
660
Location
People's Republic of Maryland
All very good advice above.
However...

375_H&H_Mag":qgy8mp7y said:
Are there any upgrades you guys might recommend.

I recommend you upgrade to a stinkin New Model where you don't have to worry with such foolishness. Open gate, load 6, close gate, and shoot. NMs don't need tutorials on operation.

Now excuse me while I duck the incoming......
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,654
Location
Kentucky
"NMs don't need tutorials on operation."

Right. Short of surgery on their innards there's NO WAY to avoid a turn ring on the New Models! They're perfect for those who don't care . . .

:wink:
 

StanMemTn

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
214
Location
Memphis, TN
I think we should have a 3 month moratorium on further discussion of cylinder turn lines! :wink:

To the original poster, congrats on your new-to-you "Old Model." One of these days I gotta get me one of those!

-Stephen
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,654
Location
Kentucky
There's another thread running right now concerning turn lines wherein folks have gotten really upset and started name-calling. It never ceases to amaze me what some folks will argue about.

375_H&H_Mag, feel free to ask further questions as you get acquainted with your new Ruger.

:D
 

375_H&H_Mag

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 19, 2009
Messages
33
Location
North Louisiana
''I recommend you upgrade to a stinkin New Model''


No offense Sir, but I wanted the old model for:

1) Nostalgia
2) Supposed slicker operation and better triggers/action
3) collectors value
4) the fact that they will not be made again
5) i like to be different

With that being said, the new model probably has advantages for ease of operation and definitely safety. I do respect your submitted opinion, but think I will stick to this "Oldie" for now. Who knows, I might end up going with a newer model to have both.

Cheers, and maybe the fellows want sling too much lead at you
:wink:
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,654
Location
Kentucky
Beg your pardon????

:shock:


Edited to add: Oh, OK then. I didn't think I had been nasty, but ya never know how stuff will come over on the 'net. No harm, no foul!

We gonna get to see yer new gun?

:wink:
 

375_H&H_Mag

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 19, 2009
Messages
33
Location
North Louisiana
Ale-8(1),


I am still learning how to post and copy quotes. As you can see i goofed up once :oops:


I do not have the gun in hand yet, as it is traveling my way. Here is a link to the gun auction. The only blemish is a mild turn line. Owner says shot little and is about 98-99 %. He calls it minty. Tell me what you think. I like it already.





Ciao, friend
 
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