OK, what to do to a new shooting iron--Accusprt Bisley

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sumoj275

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
31
Location
OKC, OK
Hello there,
Been going back and doing some reading of old posts, getting inspirations, so forth for a new Accusport Bisley I have coming in probably tomorrow. The revolver is the SS 5 1/2" brl, 45 Colt and ACP cylinder, and the black/silver laminated grips.

I am hoping that the cylinder does not need to be re-cut, but I am figuring that is a given. I plan to shoot a lot of lead through it with some of the 325 gr Buffalo Bore loads until I gear up and load some of my own heavy hitters.

If you guys don't mind, tell me the mods that you have done and why, etc. Pics would be great too. I have been wanting a project for a while and the Black Rifle was fun but I love shooting revolvers so I think this will be more fun!

Thanks for your help and insight!
 

RonEgg

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Messages
952
Location
East Texas
I have some pics on the gallery of a Bisley I got back yesterday. I just got back a Bisley just like yours tonight. I will post pics tomorrow, weather permitting.
 

JimMarch1

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
525
Location
Tucson, AZ, USA
If you're going to run serious loads, I recommend at least one of the two mods to prevent base pin jump. Both are cheap. Having the pin jump even once can do slight damage to the frame holes the base pin goes through, esp. the forward one.

Cure #1 is to put a heavier spring in the base pin release switch. These are dirt cheap on their own, most people get one as part of a complete spring kit and lighten their hammer/trigger feel at the same time. $20 for the whole kit.

Cure #2 is a Belt Mountain base pin with set screw. This also tightens the action some. In a few cases this is a bad thing if the gun happens to be a very sloppy specimen but most of the time a modest accuracy gain is seen. Trouble happens when a gun is built out of spec but had cylinder play so sloppy that on firing, a correct final alignment between barrel and cylinder bore is possible and is "forced" by the bullet itself. In a few such cases, tightening everything related to cylinder play results in a cylinder locked OUT of alignment with the barrel. This is rare, but you should check for it after installing a BM pin by doing an alignment check - I like the variant where you unload it(!!!), shine a strong flashlight at the firing pin area back of the cylinder and look down the barrel to check cylinder/barrel alignment on each bore. Belt Mountain pins range from $22 - $35 depending on optional variant.

I believe all Ruger SAs meant as life-saving tools (or hunting anything that can hurt you) should have at least one of the above fixes done. On my NewVaq357 I went the spring kit route.
 

COR

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
848
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
Congrats on the purchase of what I consider to be the best all around revolver Ruger ever produced. Mine didn't NEED anything done to it...BUT

I replaced the grips with a set of blind side White Micarta and I added a #5 style Belt mountain base pin, this was purely aesthetic. I don't use many "hot" loads in mine. I use an LBT 280WFN and a 270SAA at 1000 to 1200fps. I also worked up some loads with the 250XTP that shot really well in it. Someday I may get an action job but it's got a pretty decent trigger as far as Rugers go. I'll get a pic tonight.

Enjoy it, you are well armed!

p.s.- I forgot that I did get the throats opened on this one...they weren't terrible but I had them opened up anyway...it's kinda psychological too to know they are all cut consistently.

432fdf06.jpg
 

TomC321

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 24, 2003
Messages
73
Location
Port Republic, MD, USA
JimMarch1":hynlxtm6 said:
If you're going to run serious loads, I recommend at least one of the two mods to prevent base pin jump. Both are cheap. Having the pin jump even once can do slight damage to the frame holes the base pin goes through, esp. the forward one.

Cure #1 is to put a heavier spring in the base pin release switch. These are dirt cheap on their own, most people get one as part of a complete spring kit and lighten their hammer/trigger feel at the same time. $20 for the whole kit.

Cure #2 is a Belt Mountain base pin with set screw. This also tightens the action some. In a few cases this is a bad thing if the gun happens to be a very sloppy specimen but most of the time a modest accuracy gain is seen. Trouble happens when a gun is built out of spec but had cylinder play so sloppy that on firing, a correct final alignment between barrel and cylinder bore is possible and is "forced" by the bullet itself. In a few such cases, tightening everything related to cylinder play results in a cylinder locked OUT of alignment with the barrel. This is rare, but you should check for it after installing a BM pin by doing an alignment check - I like the variant where you unload it(!!!), shine a strong flashlight at the firing pin area back of the cylinder and look down the barrel to check cylinder/barrel alignment on each bore. Belt Mountain pins range from $22 - $35 depending on optional variant.

I believe all Ruger SAs meant as life-saving tools (or hunting anything that can hurt you) should have at least one of the above fixes done. On my NewVaq357 I went the spring kit route.

After the base pin lock spring and base pin replacement, consider replacing the mainspring with a somewhat lighter spring. Not a big deal, but a matter of personal preference.

Performance will be helped by a couple of things. Take a look at the barrel forcing cone. It should be smooth and concentric. If it isn't, it probably needs to be recut. Some favor 11 degree cutters. Ruger appears to use 7 or 8 degree cutters. I prefer the 5 degree, probably because I can't get a 7 or 8.

In addition, check the chamber throats. I now have a set of pin gages which are terrific for measuring these things. Look to see if they are tight or out of shape, like oval or S shaped. The cutter can usually fix these minor issues. Check both cylinders. .45 ACP is terrific to play with. I have also had my .45 ACP cylinders modified to take .45 AR. Now I mostly use .45 AR in my NMBH and S&W 625JM.

Grips are a matter of personal preference. The standard grips don't work for me. I have found that the Eagle Gunfighter grips work very well for me and that is what I have on my Accusport Bisley.

You may get lucky. I have heard rumors that Ruger has cleaned up their production problems in .45 cal. You may not have to do any cutting on your new gun.

Good luck.
 

twobisquit

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
318
Location
Rock Ridge, Wyoming
I put some Amboyna Burl grips by Bearpaw Grips. Also had CylinderSmith do the throats. A good Threepersons holster is another must have accessory.
6-21-09234cropped.jpg
 

sumoj275

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
31
Location
OKC, OK
Beautiful revolvers there. I love the Tom Threepersons holster, but does someone make one in a cross draw? I like carrying my blade on the right side and revolver cross. I guess it comes from carrying a 7 1/2" SAA when I was younger.
 

sumoj275

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
31
Location
OKC, OK
TomC321":7jq5znua said:
JimMarch1":7jq5znua said:
If you're going to run serious loads, I recommend at least one of the two mods to prevent base pin jump. Both are cheap. Having the pin jump even once can do slight damage to the frame holes the base pin goes through, esp. the forward one.

Cure #1 is to put a heavier spring in the base pin release switch. These are dirt cheap on their own, most people get one as part of a complete spring kit and lighten their hammer/trigger feel at the same time. $20 for the whole kit.

Cure #2 is a Belt Mountain base pin with set screw. This also tightens the action some. In a few cases this is a bad thing if the gun happens to be a very sloppy specimen but most of the time a modest accuracy gain is seen. Trouble happens when a gun is built out of spec but had cylinder play so sloppy that on firing, a correct final alignment between barrel and cylinder bore is possible and is "forced" by the bullet itself. In a few such cases, tightening everything related to cylinder play results in a cylinder locked OUT of alignment with the barrel. This is rare, but you should check for it after installing a BM pin by doing an alignment check - I like the variant where you unload it(!!!), shine a strong flashlight at the firing pin area back of the cylinder and look down the barrel to check cylinder/barrel alignment on each bore. Belt Mountain pins range from $22 - $35 depending on optional variant.

I believe all Ruger SAs meant as life-saving tools (or hunting anything that can hurt you) should have at least one of the above fixes done. On my NewVaq357 I went the spring kit route.

After the base pin lock spring and base pin replacement, consider replacing the mainspring with a somewhat lighter spring. Not a big deal, but a matter of personal preference.

Performance will be helped by a couple of things. Take a look at the barrel forcing cone. It should be smooth and concentric. If it isn't, it probably needs to be recut. Some favor 11 degree cutters. Ruger appears to use 7 or 8 degree cutters. I prefer the 5 degree, probably because I can't get a 7 or 8.

In addition, check the chamber throats. I now have a set of pin gages which are terrific for measuring these things. Look to see if they are tight or out of shape, like oval or S shaped. The cutter can usually fix these minor issues. Check both cylinders. .45 ACP is terrific to play with. I have also had my .45 ACP cylinders modified to take .45 AR. Now I mostly use .45 AR in my NMBH and S&W 625JM.

Grips are a matter of personal preference. The standard grips don't work for me. I have found that the Eagle Gunfighter grips work very well for me and that is what I have on my Accusport Bisley.

You may get lucky. I have heard rumors that Ruger has cleaned up their production problems in .45 cal. You may not have to do any cutting on your new gun.

Good luck.

Once the ACP cylinder is modified for AR, can you still use ACP in it? With or without moon clips?
THanks
 

TomC321

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 24, 2003
Messages
73
Location
Port Republic, MD, USA
sumoj275":1gk418hb said:
TomC321":1gk418hb said:
JimMarch1":1gk418hb said:
If you're going to run serious loads, I recommend at least one of the two mods to prevent base pin jump. Both are cheap. Having the pin jump even once can do slight damage to the frame holes the base pin goes through, esp. the forward one.

Cure #1 is to put a heavier spring in the base pin release switch. These are dirt cheap on their own, most people get one as part of a complete spring kit and lighten their hammer/trigger feel at the same time. $20 for the whole kit.

Cure #2 is a Belt Mountain base pin with set screw. This also tightens the action some. In a few cases this is a bad thing if the gun happens to be a very sloppy specimen but most of the time a modest accuracy gain is seen. Trouble happens when a gun is built out of spec but had cylinder play so sloppy that on firing, a correct final alignment between barrel and cylinder bore is possible and is "forced" by the bullet itself. In a few such cases, tightening everything related to cylinder play results in a cylinder locked OUT of alignment with the barrel. This is rare, but you should check for it after installing a BM pin by doing an alignment check - I like the variant where you unload it(!!!), shine a strong flashlight at the firing pin area back of the cylinder and look down the barrel to check cylinder/barrel alignment on each bore. Belt Mountain pins range from $22 - $35 depending on optional variant.

I believe all Ruger SAs meant as life-saving tools (or hunting anything that can hurt you) should have at least one of the above fixes done. On my NewVaq357 I went the spring kit route.

After the base pin lock spring and base pin replacement, consider replacing the mainspring with a somewhat lighter spring. Not a big deal, but a matter of personal preference.

Performance will be helped by a couple of things. Take a look at the barrel forcing cone. It should be smooth and concentric. If it isn't, it probably needs to be recut. Some favor 11 degree cutters. Ruger appears to use 7 or 8 degree cutters. I prefer the 5 degree, probably because I can't get a 7 or 8.

In addition, check the chamber throats. I now have a set of pin gages which are terrific for measuring these things. Look to see if they are tight or out of shape, like oval or S shaped. The cutter can usually fix these minor issues. Check both cylinders. .45 ACP is terrific to play with. I have also had my .45 ACP cylinders modified to take .45 AR. Now I mostly use .45 AR in my NMBH and S&W 625JM.

Grips are a matter of personal preference. The standard grips don't work for me. I have found that the Eagle Gunfighter grips work very well for me and that is what I have on my Accusport Bisley.

You may get lucky. I have heard rumors that Ruger has cleaned up their production problems in .45 cal. You may not have to do any cutting on your new gun.

Good luck.

Once the ACP cylinder is modified for AR, can you still use ACP in it? With or without moon clips?
THanks

You can still shoot .45 ACP in the cylinder after it is modified to also shoot .45 AR. I just prefer to shoot .45 AR because it headspaces on the rim and .45 ACP can vary quite a bit in case length.

No clips are necessary or possible. The .45 ACP headspaces on the case mouth and ejects the same as any other case from a single action Ruger.
 

TomC321

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 24, 2003
Messages
73
Location
Port Republic, MD, USA
I load my .45 ACP and .45 AR on the same die setup on my Dillon 550. I just change the shell plates. These days I am shooting a lot more .45 AR than .45 ACP.
 

Zeus

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 25, 2002
Messages
722
Location
Olathe, KS
My first Accusport was modified into a 475 Linebaugh. If you go that route, you will not have to worry about reaming the cylinder throats :)
 

mrbumps

Blackhawk
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
633
Location
Sutton, VT
Here's my Acusport Bisley 45LC/45ACP, Some of Cary's Amboyna Burl grips, Bowen Rough Country rear sight, Powers Hammer and trigger w/ half-cock. I've since added a Belt Mountain Base Pin.

Bisley_071204_0002.jpg
 

kimberguy2004

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 20, 2004
Messages
23
I had the roll mark removed from the cylinder, the message taken off of the barrel, and added a Clements front sight.

acbis5.jpg


acbis4.jpg
 
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