No.1 .375H&H re-barrel?

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emvampyre

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
3
Good afternoon, I'm new to the forum (first post actually) and of course I jump in with a question.

I have a Ruger No.1 chambered in .375H&H, solid gun, nothing particularly special and I'd like to have it re-barreled in another, more useful to me, caliber. My question is, am I limited to the caliber I choose being the same head diameter as the .375?

Thanks in advance for any information.
 

pete44ru

Hunter
Joined
Dec 6, 2004
Messages
2,176
Location
Rhode Island
.

Welcome to the forum !

Since the face of the #1 breechblock is flat, the only issue would be the need to replace the .375's belted case extractor for a .30-06 class extractor from the Ruger parts dept - presuming you change the barrel to a non-belted .30-06 class cartridge ILO another belted magnum.

If you elect to re-barrel for something like a .30-40 Krag or a .303 British (both rimmed cases), Ruger parts should have the proper extractor, since those cartridges were catalog items in the #1/#3 rifles.

Additionally, unless you want to deal with forend fit, it would be best to have any new barrel contoured like the (heavy profile) .375 barrel.


.
 

emvampyre

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
3
Hawkeye, thank you for the info! I'm thinking of picking up a used .375H&H No.1 for a song and don't need or really want a .375H&H.
 

wunbe

Buckeye
Joined
May 19, 2002
Messages
1,240
Location
Reston VA USA
A sacrilege!

Though I have had maybe a dozen No 1s made over into new cartridges. I 'd never redo a 35 H&H as most are unfailingly accurate as is. The round has also nearly the same ballistics as the 30-06 and a gentlemanly recoil. And you can load for everything from DG to small deer etc, making the 375 H&H probably the most versatile of rounds. And you can find ammo for it almost anywhere.

It is not a rare, collector, No 1 but it still is highly valuable IMO.

wunbe
 

roofinspector

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
282
The only functional difference in the action is the extractor, which is available thru many sources around 10 dollars. OEM extractors can be modified for specific uses, such as in rimfire conversion. Centerfire extractors can be more straight forward, use as is or modify slightly for the case of the day.

I have two previously in 375 H&H No.1's, one is a 257 Roberts and the other is a 22LR. The forearm that you have will be for a fairly large barrel(375), so that enters somewhat into a build, or to even use reuse it. Stocks are stocks for the most part. I have noted over the years, no.1 builds are as varied as the wind.

Some will buy a new extractor then hunt for a take off no.1 factory barrel. This still has some work to do with fitment of the new to you oem barrel to your action. Some will, some won't; time up so that the barrel is tight; headspaces, gapspaces, and the sights are straight up. So guess, you pays your money and takes your chances with a takeoff barrel. Lots of folks enjoy the factory look.

If you want a new barrel, lots of nice barrel blank makers around. The No.1 barrel blank has to have the usual things done by the smith, threading, crowning, and chambering...........and finish of your choice. The No.1 barrel has a few things that the typical bolt gun does not, the extractor has a recess in the barrel face and the rib/scope mounts are affixed to the barrel(4 screw and the optional 2 studs), the cost of a Ruger No.1 rebarrel with new is about doing a pre64 Winchester 70 in labor in my opinion. Of course, the rib can manage a folding rear sight easily, but the front banded oem ramp sight is more labor than some to put on.

Certain aftermarket tapers mimic the factory tapers very closely, but of course, most blank makers offer a lot of contours free or for a minimum fee.

The real beauty, other than its cosmetics, is its versatility, the action can serve its purpose with a lot of chamberings. The forend seems to be the dividing factor with some, several versions to choose from there. Lots of folks like a full custom no.1, but the costs(unless you can do the work yourself) can run into $, a simple reworked No.1 with factory wood is indeed a very nice rifle.

Best of luck with your procurement and mods.

FWIW,

Roof
 

22/45 Fan

Hunter
Joined
Dec 8, 2001
Messages
2,123
Location
Pittsburgh, PA, USA
wunbe said:
The round has also nearly the same ballistics as the 30-06 and a gentlemanly recoil.
I have heard a lot of praise for the .375H&H but "gentlemanly recoil" has never been claimed before. I suppose you can handload it down to more modest velocity and with lighter bullets but it's still not a tame round.
 

wunbe

Buckeye
Joined
May 19, 2002
Messages
1,240
Location
Reston VA USA
I have had rotator cuff repair and am still able to use factory rounds in the 375 H&H w/o the punishment dealt out by the hard slap of other over.300 magnum rounds. The tapered .375 does move you a bit but not much more than my 9.3x62 Ruger No 1 and not nearly enough to induce flinching.

wunbe
 

emvampyre

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
3
wunbe that sounds like a plus for me. One shoulder cut one, one more (my dominant, shooting) shoulder to go. Plus, that No.1 is a hefty piece and if I mix up some loads that are on the softer end for bench and play, this may be a good fit here. Thanks guys!
 

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