NM Vaquero conversion options

[Hondo44]

The first thing to check is to make sure the cyl lock in the bottom of the cyl window goes all the way down to allow the cyl to spin when you open the loading gate. If not, check that the loading gate spring tip (the big heavy 'V' shaped spring) is not sticking out to the front of where it pushes up on the loading gate shaft. If so, remove cyl and snap it back in place. Then replace cyl and see if it rotates properly.

If that's not the issue, it's the cyl pawl. Take off the grip frame and look for a mark where the tit on the bottom end of the pawl contacts the top of the grip frame. Is the mark in the little relief cut you made in the grip frame like the white spot shown below on the grip frame on the left?

If you can't see a mark, coat the relief cut with a black indelible felt tip pen. Install the grip frame with only two screws; ones beside the hammer and the long one behind the trigger guard. Now cycle the action several times and open and close the loading gate several times.

Pull off the grip frame and check for the mark in the black ink. Is it in the relief cut? If yes, did you make the relief cut too deep or too shallow? Compare to relief cut in your original grip frame. Adjust relief cut accordingly.

If the mark is not in the relief cut, correct the cut so that it is. Assemble and recheck.

 

[ledzep816]

I made the relief cut based on pictures I took before I sent my other grip out, plus using permanent marker to see the contact points along with the pictures shown earlier in this thread. I am beginning to think I may have gone too deep but was unaware that would cause problems :/ It is a problem with the pawl as I assembled without the pawl once and the problem went away.

 

[ledzep816]

Ugh yep, too deep. On the plus side I am a pro at reassembly. On the downside, I can't shoot this thing.

Will JB weld work or do I need to get this welded up?

 

[Hondo44]

Ugh yep, too deep. On the plus side I am a pro at reassembly. On the downside, I can't shoot this thing.

Will JB weld work or do I need to get this welded up?

JB Weld is the solution used successfully by others! My dad always used to say; "Measure twice and cut once."

 

[ledzep816]

I did disassemble/reassemble test fit at least 4 times........Its my own fault for not asking but I assumed divot cut meant it had to have clearance to move, not still have to make contact.

 

[Hondo44]

JB Weld will work fine.

 

[ledzep816]

Well, JB welded the divot, filed flush with the frame and reassembled. Didn't even have to make a divot cut in the JB weld which is odd, cycles fine. I pretty sure the reason I thought it needed it in the first place was the hammer binding, but pretty sure that was due to the cylinder pin not being in (i'm learning). I hope the JB is hard enough enough to not wear and case an issue.

Stripped the frame, spent a few hours blending the grip frame to the cylinder frame. Needs some final polish work, but I think it turned out pretty well.

 

[Hondo44]

Bravo!

 

[ledzep816]

When rotating the cylinder (gate up), everything is normal. Rotating the cylinder (gate down) there's a slight tapping sound.

Any ideas? Before I get out the dremel tool haha.

 

[Hondo44]

I assume you mean when you hold back the hammer enough for the cylinder to rotate, which is not normally done to shoot the gun. It's most likely because the divot is filled in completely. However if the gun functions properly, that's not an issue.

It has been reported on several New Vaqueros in the past. It's just a slight difference in pawl fitting. When the divot was too deep, the pawl didn't work correctly, now with no divot, the pawl is just a little tight. It may disappear over time but doesn't matter if it does or doesn't.

 

[ledzep816]

Roger, we shall see I guess. The sound is made with the hammer forward, loading gate open and while rotating the cylinder.

The JB weld is no where near as hard as stainless steel and sanded flush easily, I'm curious to see what happens as the pawl already made a mark in the JB.

Is the divot too deep a common thing when fitting frames? (I might feel a little better haha). Just curious if anyone has had issues with JB weld holding up.

I do feel dumb causing many hours of extra work when it appears the frame didn't even need cut.

 

[Hondo44]

Oh...ok, loading gate open.

No worries, JB Weld has been used before by others (for the same reason so you're not alone) and I haven't heard of it failing for anyone yet. The JB many compact a little after use but I'm still of the opinion that will improve the pawl fit.

Is the slight tapping you hear when rotating one click per cylinder chamber? If so, that's normal. It's the index pawl.

 

[ledzep816]

The click is normal but I found the culprit. The top of the front frame screw was about 1/8 thread sticking out the top which was contacting the flutes in the cylinder. All good now!

It's all about the little things I suppose. Gotta keep my OCD in check somehow.

Many thanks for all the help. Now to shoot the crap out of it.

 

[Varminterror]

Whoo baby that Bisley frame looks good on your New Vaq!!! Glad the fix lined out simple enough and didn't require REAL welding. I've used Loc-Tite Weld (epoxy with steel 'dust', like JBweld) for similar purposes, and have had good luck, so I'd be surprised if you ever notice it start failing on you.

Congrats on the successful transplant, and thanks again amigo!

 

[ledzep816]

Thank you Varmin, it all worked out in the end. I still may try and find a 5.5" Bisley to add to the collection some day.

If only Ruger would wise up and sell ACP cylinders I think folks would buy them.