Newbie with 10/22 TD Cleaning Questions

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Jun 23, 2013
Greets, all:

Just bought my first firearm: the 10/22 TD; I figured that I'd get some experience with firing and maintaining a simple rifle so I can be well-experienced by the time the zombie apocalypse rolls around. It being new, I want to clean it since I can see a little debris inside the barrel and receiver area.

Here's where I'm stuck, me being mechanically-declined and all:

I've watched many a vid on YouTube on how to clean a 10/22 (only a handful depict a 10/22 TD, however) and have a grasp on how to clean the barrel, but I haven't seen one, yet, that addresses in detail how and what to lube/oil/grease (and how often) the other assemblies, i.e., the trigger assembly and the receiver workings. Do I need to completely disassemble everything every time I need to clean it?

Then there's the issue of how often I should clean the rifle, starting from scratch; is there a maintenance schedule of some kind to follow? I know a lot hinges on the quality of the ammo--which at the present is a non-issue since there isn't any to be had--but I know that I should stick with non-lead, better quality bullets (CCI) to keep the gun operating as spec'd. I even tried to hire a gunsmith for an hour of his time just to show me the basics but haven't had any luck there--I guess it's not worth their time for something so mundane. :S

I just want to do things right so the rifle will serve me for years to come.

TIA for you responses and help!


Jan 23, 2007
Tucson, AZ
The manual shows disassembly/reass'y, as far as oil, anything that moves should get a DROP.... no more, no less. It is VERY easy to over oil a gun. NO oil in the chamber!! You should refrain from cleaning too often, more .22s are ruined by cleaning than are simply worn out from shooting. Rimfires, especially prefer dirty bores to clean. Don't clean until the groups start opening up, 1000 rounds, or more, usually.


Jan 11, 2011
Ocala, FL
First off, Welcome to the forum. :D

Opinions on "proper" cleaning are just about as numerous as fleas on a dog's back.

I use a good un-coated rod to clean just about everything I shoot. Many have opined that coated rods pick up carbon particles (hard stuff) that embed into the coating and act as abrasives on the bore.

I have 5 M1s and there is no way to clean from the breech. The rod is inserted from the muzzle end, without the patch holder/brush, then the patch/brush is attached to the rod and PULLED out of the bore.

My Field Manuals for the AR-15/M-16 rifles tell you to do the same thing. Even though you can break the action open and have complete access to the breech, you put the patch holder/brush on the rod and then, with the handle removed from the rod, you drop the rod down the bore from the breech end, put the handle on and PULL the rod out of the bore.

If you push the rod through the bore it will flex and hit the sides of the bore in doing so. By pulling the rod there is no flexing and less chance of any damage the the bore.

I rarely clean the bore. Most all lead bullet ammo has a wax lub on it that seasons the bore and will actually protect it. I've read reports of match shooters putting 10,000 rounds down a barrel without cleaning. If accuracy starts to drop its a good indicator that the bore may need cleaning.

As others have posted, NO oil in the chamber or bore.

As to the action, I clean as needed. Some use a spray on cleaner so they don't have to tear the trigger group down. I just don't find it that hard to tear the group down and clean it.

Some use a dry lube in the receiver/bolt group. I run the 10-22 dry. Oil will turn any unburned powder and powder ash into mud and will gum up the action. Maybe a small dab of grease on the front of the hammer where it rubs the bolt.


May 26, 2013
South Western Caswell Co. NC
I like my Patch Worm pull through even better than the older Otis. Make your own or get a Gunsmither chamber brush to deal with the carbon ring forming at the far end of the chamber. Don't like the bore snakes.