New (to me) Blackhawk

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Ryanusmc

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Rhode Island
Hello all, finally signed up today after lurking, gettn info for a while.

I put a 4 5/8" blued blackhawk on layaway back in December and finally brought it home today. I ordered a steel erh from midway a month ago and put that right on. I then walked out to my back stop and sent a 100 rounds downrange. Nothing fancy, 250 rnfp over 9.5 grains of herco. I only shot off hand and could keep 6 rounds in 5 inches at 25 yards, which I'm happy with. Pistol shootn' has never been my strong point. I kept my spinner moving too, I need another, I hate waiting for it to stop moving and I'm not good enough to hit a moving spinner :).

Any tips on removing the finish on the grip frame? Besides that this gun will probably stay stock. I like the rosewood grips so they will stay. I have rosewoods on my 4" 45 stainless redhawk and I like the similarity.

One more question. My cylinder throats are a bit undersized (bullets can't even be started to be pushed through) but I expereanced zero leading while the same load leads like crazy in my redhawk but the redhawks cylinder is opened up to 452. What gives?
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
25,138
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
Welcome lurker!
There are a few folks who have removed the finish on their grip frames,, and if I recall correctly,, it requires a bit of elbow grease. I've never done it so I'm not the best person to give advice.
As for the leading/throat issue,,, Not sure. Quite often leading, non-leading is due to different things. But it's usually accuracy that suffers or gets better with the throat issue. Those tight throats my be the culprit in your accuracy.
And oh yes,, get more than one target,, steel is fun! And,, why not hit spinning targets as long as you are on a safe range where flying lead is ok?
 

KWYJIBO

Blackhawk
Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Messages
609
Location
Utah
Don't know what to tell you about leading, but if you want your chambers opened to the correct size, there's a fellow on Long Island who can ream them for a really reasonable price. Calls himself the cylinder smith. His handle here on Ruger Forum is CAS.

I like your load. I put 9.5 grains of Herco under a 255 grain RNFP to feed my Uberti SAA clone as well as my Vaquero; it's a moderate pressure load (within SAAMI limits for the .45 Colt, but at the top end of the range). I've found Herco to be clean and to have a pleasant odor when it burns.
 

Ryanusmc

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Rhode Island
I opened up the throats of my redhawk when I bought it with emery cloth and after a couple hours I had it so .452 hardcasts pushed through with just a little bit of force. Accuracy is still 2 1/2" off a bench but leads reall bad with everything to the point that it's going to be a jacketed bullet weapon only. Which is fine since it is my normal ccw.

I also picked up my simply rugged boarder stamped holster yesterday at the post office, good timing huh. It's a nice piece, very similar to my kramer horsehide scabbard for my redhawk.
 

JWhitmore44

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
987
Location
NW Kansas
Assuming the grip frame is aluminum, there are 2 ways most folks strip the black off. Some use Easy Off oven cleaner. The other way is to sand it off.

I started with 220 grit wet dry sand paper and lightly sanded the larger areas. I then used a semi soft wire wheel to clean it the rest of the way and to take out the scratches caused by the 220. A small wire wheel in a Dremel got into the smaller areas. The used a polishing wheel with a medium then a fine grit polish and made it mirror smooth. It sounds like a lot of work, but I think it probably took me around 3 hours total. Gave me something to do on a day the snow was blowing :)
 

Bucks Owin

Hunter
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
3,196
Location
51st state of Jefferson
JWhitmore44":1wcdnh0h said:
Assuming the grip frame is aluminum, there are 2 ways most folks strip the black off. Some use Easy Off oven cleaner. The other way is to sand it off.

I started with 220 grit wet dry sand paper and lightly sanded the larger areas. I then used a semi soft wire wheel to clean it the rest of the way and to take out the scratches caused by the 220. A small wire wheel in a Dremel got into the smaller areas. The used a polishing wheel with a medium then a fine grit polish and made it mirror smooth. It sounds like a lot of work, but I think it probably took me around 3 hours total. Gave me something to do on a day the snow was blowing :)
I've used a third method, sandblast sparingly with a fine media. Leaves it with the old finish completely gone and the surface has a little "tooth" for repainting if desired. I used Krylon from a "rattle can" but would try either epoxy paint or powder coat next time, paint wears too easily...(Or just polish the aluminum) :wink: Just two centavos....
 

Ryanusmc

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Rhode Island
Thanks for the tips, I went at it yesterday before I had to go to work. Took me an hour with various grits if Emory cloth. I used a scotch bright pad for a finisher and got a gray finish. I might polish it but I like the contrast it has now, looks like antiqued gunmetal.
 

flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Location
Star Valley, WY
Ryanusmc":tivgo78b said:
Accuracy is still 2 1/2" off a bench but leads real bad with everything

Bullet hardness?

Powder choice?

Often the leading will be drastically reduced with the proper combination of powder and crimp.

JMHO,

flatgate
 

Ryanusmc

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Rhode Island
Thanks Flatgate, I've just been using herco because I can get it for 14$ a lbs which is significantly cheaper than anything else around here. As for bullet hardness I use really hard bullets, not by choice but places like leadhead sells bullets way to hard IMO. I've been getting some locally cast bullets and REALLY hard ones lead worse, I'm guessing because I load midrange loads.

I think I may go back to laser cast swc. They seemed to lead the least.
 

Enigma

Hunter
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
2,511
Location
Houston metro area, TX
If you have some time, search the web for cast bullet manufacturers. A few (very few) will let you both select the diameter of your bullets and the hardness. Here is one such manufacturer (no personal experience):

http://www.hotshotbullets.com/

He seems to have the right idea with both hardness and good quality lube. If he'd offer a few more options in bullet diameter, he'd really have it licked!

My point is to search for more manufacturers who offer these options. They're out there - you just have to find them! Your other option is to cast your own.
 

Ryanusmc

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Rhode Island
Thanks for the link enigma. I've ordered from a half dozen places online but with shipping prices are outrages. Hotshot seems cheaper than any otherr place online, I'll deffinetly order from there next.
 

BIgMuddy

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 15, 2007
Messages
556
Location
Linn Creek MO
I think you are on the right track with the hardness of your bullets causing the leading. I have the same issue with Lead Head. If you drive them fast, they do much better. Mid range or light loads, yep they lead pretty bad.

http://www.montanabulletworks.com

Montana bullet works has a good reputation, and you can order different hardness, diameters, etc.
 

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