New to forum

Help Support Ruger Forum:

Rick J

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
4
Hi, all
I picked up a brand spankin' new SR 1911 FS from a LGS on Wednesday. $747 OTD. I haven't had the chance to shoot it yet.
I've been getting familiar with it (broke it down and put it back together a few times). Pretty easy.
Anyway, the Ruger owner's manual seems a bit ambiguous about lubricating the firearm. Of course I "consulted" YouTube and the opinions are all over the place. (Ballistol, FrogLube, none at all,etc).
I'm just looking for opinions in this forum if any you kind folks have any.

Ruger MKIII 22/45 Target
Ruger LCR .38 Special
S&W M&P 9mm FS
Ruger SR 1911 FS

Rick
 

Mike J

Hunter
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Messages
4,228
Location
GA
I believe about any good gun oil will work. Some use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. There are as many different opinions about this as there are stars in the sky. Just make sure you keep it lubricated.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
Location
Ridgefield WA
I agree with Mike J. Keep it lubricated.
I use a combination of Shooters choice gun grease (slide rails and barrel bushing) and Rem oil (other moving parts and general wipe down). Any good gun oil will work just fine.
 

Mike J

Hunter
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Messages
4,228
Location
GA
Chuck 100 yd said:
I agree with Mike J. Keep it lubricated.
I use a combination of Shooters choice gun grease (slide rails and barrel bushing) and Rem oil (other moving parts and general wipe down). Any good gun oil will work just fine.

Kinda interesting. I use a combination of either shooters choice & mobil 1 or Hoppe's Elite. I was just using oil but I feel a little better using the grease. Now watch someone come tell me I'm doing it wrong. When I first got my SR 1911 I watched a YouTube video brownell's had put up about how to lubricate a 1911.
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
4,444
Location
Lemont, PA, USA 16851
I use Weapon Shield grease on the rails and bushing and Weapon Shield CLP on the other parts and it's worked fine for me. Just don't over do it with the grease and oil, only need a little to do the job.
 

Pat-inCO

Hawkeye
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
5,922
Location
In the AZ oven (Phoenix basin)
Keep in mind that the tighter the action is the more you want to use OIL,
and not grease. I like either FP-10 or Slipstream. In fact I use Slipstream
on the rails and FP-10 everywhere else.

From the Ruger SR1911 manual:
"NOTE:
Only a light application of oil is needed to provide adequate
lubrication of moving parts and to prevent rust. Excess accumulations of oil
tend to attract particles of dust and dirt and may congeal in cold weather,
which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the pistol."

Emphasis mine.
 

Rick J

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
4
Thanks for your replies. It seems to me (and my shooting enthusiast co-workers that I just had the chance to talk to after the Holidays) that any machine type oil will do just fine. But also noted was that not to overdo it and avoid grease altogether.
I plan on going to the local indoor range Monday to put the gun to the test. I'll post again in case anyone is interested.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
Location
Ridgefield WA
Rick J , We are not talking about heavy grease like used in automotive applications.
Shooters choice and other 'GUN' greases I have used are very light and almost flow but do not creep out of the area that they are supposed to lubricate.
 

dakota1911

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 26, 2009
Messages
1,021
You really want to lube it. What is usually a long thread. I use CLP and pick a product that says it is for SS then shake it up a bunch.
 

Mike J

Hunter
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Messages
4,228
Location
GA
dakota1911 said:
You really want to lube it. What is usually a long thread. I use CLP and pick a product that says it is for SS then shake it up a bunch.

What type of product are you using that says it is for stainless steel? You've got me curious.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
9,818
Location
Woodbury, Tn
Rick, I don't see where you are located. I was shooting in Barrow, Alaska in -20 degree weather. I noted how hard it was to pull the trigger. The natives told me they don't oil their actions and just a wipe down to keep from rusting. Some military guys in Alaska told me the strip all the lube off their AR's and they run fine in the below zero weather. Just a thought. Otherwise a light oil lube in balmy climes is a must. Enjoy your gun.:)
gramps
 

Rick J

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
4
It's just too darn cold here in southern Wisconsin lately for my old self to do anything but go to work and back right now.
Trust me, I'm really itching to shoot it. It's supposed to warm up soon so maybe next Monday.

Rick
 

Ordguy

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
181
Location
LA
CLP has worked fine for me on all my handguns over many years of use.
 

mohavesam

Hawkeye
Joined
Jan 4, 2004
Messages
5,847
Location
Rugerville, AZ
Any oil or gun/ordnance grease with a MIL-spec quoted MIL-L-63460; MIL-PRF-372, MIL-PRF-3150,MIL-PRF-14107, and/or MIL-L-46000 on the label is perfectly fine for commercial alloys, carbon steel and "stainless steel" guns.
---No MIL spec on the label? Don't buy it!

Oils and lubes have evolved tenfold in the past 3-4 years, and whether you live and play in 99% humidity (Gulf coast) or the dry deserts of AZ and NM, responsible care and cleaning including modern gun-rated oils/lubes will keep your guns running and looking like new for a lifetime.
 

Rick J

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 31, 2014
Messages
4
I finally got to shoot the new gun. Feels good and I was surprised that the felt recoil wasn't much more than my M&P 9mm.
But I did have one hiccup. The 44th round (second last one in the 7 round mag) chambered normally but when I pulled the trigger it didn't move at all. I dropped the mag and ejected the chambered round. It looked completely normal and I set it aside. I put the mag back in and the last round fired normally. I then loaded the last five rounds that I had into the 8 round mag and no trouble at all.
Shall I be very concerned or just attribute to the so called break-in period?

Rick
 
Top