New to board, and new SP101 Snubbie Problems

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Ecard

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
11
Hi. New to this board and new to Ruger revolvers (I do have a 22/45). Picked up a nice new SP101 snubnose .357 yesterday. I was really excited and took it to the range that evening with a box of .38 sp. and a box of .357. Out of 50 rounds, only 12 ignited :cry:

The pin is light striking most rounds. I looked at it pretty close, and I can see the pin going out less than half way from the frame to the cylinder. If I push on the transfer bar, the pin will stick out more than half the distance to the cylinder. The symptom is similar to what I read about when a lighter trigger spring is installed, but this is factory new, out of the box.

Anyone else have this happen on a new gun? Any advice will be appreciated.
 

DogBone

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
42
I don't think the firing pin should behave the way you are describing.

On my GP100, if I pull the trigger and drop the hammer on an empty chamber, the firing pin sticks out way past half-way, but not quite all the way to the cylinder.

When doing this, and while still pulling back the trigger, I cannot "push" the hammer in any further.

It sounds like something is interfering with the firing pin. Or perhaps a broken spring.

Have you field stripped the revolver and taken a look?
 

Ecard

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
11
I just took the grip off to take a look at the hammer spring. Nothing jumped out at me as looking unusual, or unlike the diagrams
 

wixedmords

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Messages
903
Location
Wixed - Lakes Region of NH
It will likely need to disassemble the trigger group to find out if anything is blocking the firing pin.

There are examples in the forum of junk being lodged inside the revolver blocking some functions.

If you feel comfortable doing this yourself you can use YouTube or owners manual to help you disassemble the SP. If not you could send the SP to Ruger and have them disassemble the revolver to look for issues or use a local gunsmith or someone with disassembly experience to take the SP apart. You may want to contact where you bought the revolver about the issue. They may shed some insight.

Getting that revolver apart for a cleaning would be my first move.

Write down or sketch where each parts goes in the process. This will help with reassembly.
 

Ecard

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
11
Thanks for the advice. Ruger is more than willing to repair under warranty, and will reimburse me for shipping, but I think I'll take a crack at it first, just because it might be an easy fix and I like to tinker.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
25,872
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
Welcome to the Forum!
It's also possible some shipping gunk has gotten in the firing pin area. A good cleaning,, internal along with a field stripping to check the internals is in order before shipping.
 

Ecard

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
11
Well, I did the field strip, which was good, and satisfied myself that there is nothing getting in the way of anything. The hammer, when striking, just does not cause the transfer bar to push the firing pin out very far. The firing pin itself seems to be moving fine in its bushing. However, even when I push the transfer bar manually, the pin goes out further than when the hammer pushes it, but still not that much. It might be enough, though. It's almost a if the mainspring is too weak, but it's new from the box.

I spoke with Ruger and they will reimburse shipping. They also said that they would expedite the service because the gun is brand new. We'll see.
 

Ecard

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
11
WMB30":41kwqmg8 said:
Perhaps the top step of the hammer is a little proud
Bill

You might have something there. It would account for the problem if the top step took too much of the force away from the striking part. I might try removing the hammer and stoning a little material off.
 

Yosemite Sam

Hunter
Joined
Mar 18, 2002
Messages
2,113
Location
Cape Cod, MA, USA
Ecard":3afbgonv said:
WMB30":3afbgonv said:
Perhaps the top step of the hammer is a little proud
Bill

You might have something there. It would account for the problem if the top step took too much of the force away from the striking part. I might try removing the hammer and stoning a little material off.
Before you start modifying your gun you may want to consider taking Ruger up on their offer. If you start stoning things you may turn a friendly, in-warranty free repair into something they charge you for, because it was "altered". Just another opinion.

-- Sam
 

deac45

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
451
Location
NW Georgia
Yosemite Sam":os8x4k00 said:
Ecard":os8x4k00 said:
WMB30":os8x4k00 said:
Perhaps the top step of the hammer is a little proud
Bill

You might have something there. It would account for the problem if the top step took too much of the force away from the striking part. I might try removing the hammer and stoning a little material off.
Before you start modifying your gun you may want to consider taking Ruger up on their offer. If you start stoning things you may turn a friendly, in-warranty free repair into something they charge you for, because it was "altered". Just another opinion.

-- Sam

I'll second that. Even though I feel comfortable working on my own guns, if I have a brand new one with a problem I'll send it back first.

deac45
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
25,872
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
I have to agree with the above posters,,, don't mess with the gun. Ruger will fix it.,,, free,,, and if you "alter" it,, by stoning or grinding etc the hammer,,, they most likely won't be as nice.
 

Ecard

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
11
Good advice about not trying a DIY. and sending it to Ruger. Unfortunately, this isn't the first time that I didn't take good advice, becauseI just had to find out. Fortunately, it looks like taking a little off the face of the hammer took care of the problem. I checked the movement with snap caps, before and after. Before, you could see a large space between the inside of the rim and the cylinder. After I filed some material off the top of the hammer (file, smooth, fit, file, smooth, fit, etc.), the rim of the cartridge now moves flush against the cylinder, pushed by the firing pin.

I'm going to try some live rounds today, but if I were a betting man (looks like I already placed that bet) it's going to work just fine. If not, I'll call Ruger again, tell them I really meant well, beg for mercy, and see what happens (and blame Bill) :lol:

Thanks for all the help and advice. It's a great little gun.
 

surveyor47

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Messages
312
Location
New Orleans, LA
Was the ammo FACTORY or a RELOAD? IF it is a reload, it is likly that the primer is not seated deeply enough.

Just a little test. Make sure the gun is EMPTY. Close and cock the revolver. Place a pencil into the chamber, ERASEr first and hold it vertically. Pul the trigger. If the firing pin hit propels that Pencil and Eraser out of the barrel, then you probably do not have a problem with the gun.

Try a box or two of FACTORY ammo, Winchester, Remington or Federal. If it light strikes on good factory ammo, then you know that you have a gun problem.
 

tek4260

Buckeye
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
1,886
Location
carroll county ms
Ecard":44u872ft said:
Good advice about not trying a DIY. and sending it to Ruger. Unfortunately, this isn't the first time that I didn't take good advice, becauseI just had to find out. Fortunately, it looks like taking a little off the face of the hammer took care of the problem. I checked the movement with snap caps, before and after. Before, you could see a large space between the inside of the rim and the cylinder. After I filed some material off the top of the hammer (file, smooth, fit, file, smooth, fit, etc.), the rim of the cartridge now moves flush against the cylinder, pushed by the firing pin.

I'm going to try some live rounds today, but if I were a betting man (looks like I already placed that bet) it's going to work just fine. If not, I'll call Ruger again, tell them I really meant well, beg for mercy, and see what happens (and blame Bill) :lol:

Thanks for all the help and advice. It's a great little gun.


Nice to see people taking the time to fix their own and understanding what to do rather than just shipping it off to the factory or the local gunsmith.
 
A

Anonymous

I OPENED UP MY BOX OF SP101 327 FUN, AND WENT TO THE RANGE. WHEN EMPTY, GUN CYCLES FINE. LOAD ER UP AND TIMING PROBLEMS. GUN WILL NOT CYCLE THRU DOUBLE ACTION FIRE 3 OUT OF 6 PULLS. SINGLE ACTION WILL NOT LOCK 2 OUT OF 3 TRIES. I FIRED 10 ROUNDS, WENT HOME, EMAILED RUGER AND PACKED UP THE BOX. RUGER HAS ALREADY CALLED WITH A UPS PICKUP...NOW, HOW LONG BEFORE I GET A GUN BACK?
 

Tommy Kelly

Buckeye
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
1,045
Location
MISSISSIPPI
I had a problem with a bolt action ruger and returned the bolt only and was supprised they had it back within 2 weeks very fast turn around in my opinion. I sent a S&W pistol back for repairs and it took them 6 weeks to return it. I was pleased with ruger's warranty repair's.
 
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