A
Anonymous
Hello Everyone!
Thank you in advance for you time and patience.
I recently purchased a six years old Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 mag with a 9 in. barrel. The Gun is in very good general conditions and came with both the old style grip with the inserts and a newer hogue mono grip. Trigger and hammer have been jeweled. I cannot describe how much i like this gun. The gun is also very accurate and pleasant to shoot.
I know a bit about S&W revolvers and Colts, having owned both, but i am new to Rugers and i have a few doubts that i hope to clarify with your help.
My gun has a small amount of cylinder endshake. I read several post lurking on this forum that helped me to understand how to measure the exact amount of play.
Using feelers gauges, with the gun at rest, i calculated the endshake to be around .002 (00.6 with the cylinder pulled back, .004 with cylinder held forward)
I realize that a .002 amount of endshake is really tollerable on a ruger, and i understand that rugers are different in design compared to colts and S&W, but i still have a couple of unanswered questions:
-My colts used to have a small amount of side to side and endshake play at rest, but pulling the trigger the cylinder would firmly lock up. Is it normal that the amount of endshake in my ruger is the same wether the gun is at rest or not? repeating in fact the test with the feelers gauges, holding the trigger back i obtain identical numbers.
-Is .002 of endshake tollerable or Necessary? By trying to remove the endshake do i risk to make the cylinder drag or the double action worse?
-Is it a good idea for me to install an endshake bearing to try eliminating the unwanted movement completely? I would instinctively think that any amount of enshake during lock up will end up ruining ejector star and gradually stretching the frame.
-Will these bearing work for me?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=2568 ... GP__R_hawk
Thank you very much for helping!
Thank you in advance for you time and patience.
I recently purchased a six years old Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 mag with a 9 in. barrel. The Gun is in very good general conditions and came with both the old style grip with the inserts and a newer hogue mono grip. Trigger and hammer have been jeweled. I cannot describe how much i like this gun. The gun is also very accurate and pleasant to shoot.
I know a bit about S&W revolvers and Colts, having owned both, but i am new to Rugers and i have a few doubts that i hope to clarify with your help.
My gun has a small amount of cylinder endshake. I read several post lurking on this forum that helped me to understand how to measure the exact amount of play.
Using feelers gauges, with the gun at rest, i calculated the endshake to be around .002 (00.6 with the cylinder pulled back, .004 with cylinder held forward)
I realize that a .002 amount of endshake is really tollerable on a ruger, and i understand that rugers are different in design compared to colts and S&W, but i still have a couple of unanswered questions:
-My colts used to have a small amount of side to side and endshake play at rest, but pulling the trigger the cylinder would firmly lock up. Is it normal that the amount of endshake in my ruger is the same wether the gun is at rest or not? repeating in fact the test with the feelers gauges, holding the trigger back i obtain identical numbers.
-Is .002 of endshake tollerable or Necessary? By trying to remove the endshake do i risk to make the cylinder drag or the double action worse?
-Is it a good idea for me to install an endshake bearing to try eliminating the unwanted movement completely? I would instinctively think that any amount of enshake during lock up will end up ruining ejector star and gradually stretching the frame.
-Will these bearing work for me?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=2568 ... GP__R_hawk
Thank you very much for helping!