New sbh owner/project

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So i got a newOk gentleman. I am proud to announce that I am now an owner of a center fire single action. I'm am super pumped to get into big bore handguns. I picked up a 1975 production date 7.5" super blackhawk 44 mag, recessed chambers. It's mint, basically unfired. Even has original box and owners manual. My plan is to shorten it to 4.75" or so.

I am having a ting of second thoughts, but 7.5" just seems so impractical to me. I bought a pre warning sbh so I could get the bigger grip.

I have already started on new grips for it, and deciding between front sight options and holsters.

My sight options are as follows-
Interchangeable

weigand sight base, Aggie01 sight base,

Fixed - .595 ruger, and 2dogs

Anyone have any thoughts on sights?

Here are some picsimage by jt671987, on Flickr
image by jt671987, on Flickr
image by jt671987, on Flickrimage by jt671987, on Flickr

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Very nice gun! I agree,those grips need to be in the garbage can.
YOu have a nice start on grips. What kind of wood is that?

 

[Bucks Owin]

Congrats... 8)

What's impractical about 7.5" sight radius and velocity? :shock:

Shoot it as is and enjoy the ADVANTAGE of that barrel I say... :wink:

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

The wood should be maple...as for the length, I guess I don't foresee it getting carried/packed as much when it's this long. Unless it's on a dedicated gun belt, I wouldn't even be able to sit unless it was cross draw/chest mounted.

 

[Hondo44]

That's a very nice early SBH. I also prefer the 4 3/4" barrel on almost every Ruger I own and pack.

But if you don't mind a little experience sharing from an old fart, I have a suggestion. It never pays to cut down a really nice original gun to make a configuration that Ruger already produces. Maybe you intend to do all the work yourself except the re-bluing. But especially if you have to have a smith do the work or some of it, you can have two guns for almost the same cash outlay by finding a used 4 3/4" SBH and just change the front sight.

By carefully grinding off the front sight on a short barrel SBH, you can screw on any of the custom sights you're considering and no re-bluing required. The 4 3/4" SBH has the standard XR3-RED size grip frame but you can pick up dragoon SBH grip frames anywhere. Or even a stainless SBH Hunter dragoon grip with round trigger guard.

Vaquero with Hunter SS grip frame, 5 1/2" barrel with 5" ejector rod for full extraction of those long 45 C cases, and still short enough to pack easily.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

I have shortened another firearm with good success. My plan is to attach a front sight, vs sweat and only have to deal with the end needed to be touched up. The other issue with getting a shorted model blackhawk is that they do not use a dragoon frame, which i want.

 

[eveled]

There is iron in Hondo's words of wisdom. Easy to find a dragoon grip frame for a shooter gun.

 

[BIgMuddy]

I get it and it's your gun...make it fit you and your wants. The pre warning barrel is perfect for shortening because no writing gets cut into. I think the Supers cut to 4 5/8" look cool and yes they carry easier. I have a Weigand sight on my Power #5 and like it a lot. The blades replace easily but are getting a bit hard to find. The other sights that use FA blades are nice too and a more rugged arrangement. I would go with easily changed blades just because I like that option when heavier bullets may be used.

You mention holsters, and if you are looking for a pants belt carry my favorite is a Barranti Hank Sloan. If you don't want to wait, then another nice rig that carries well is a Bianchi #1.

Post pics on the finished project.

Dan

 

[P89DC]

But if you don't mind a little experience sharing from an old fart, I have a suggestion. It never pays to cut down a really nice original gun to make a configuration that Ruger already produces. Maybe you intend to do all the work yourself except the re-bluing. But especially if you have to have a smith do the work or some of it, you can have two guns for almost the same cash outlay by finding a used 4 3/4" SBH....

Used 7.5" blued new model SBH are very cheap compared to the shorter barrel version, the market is saturated. I'll bet once he shortens it it'll have a higher resale value. As for cost, I paid $125 to have a SRH shorten and ft sight brazed on. I bought the SRH off of gunbroker for under $600 including all fees, $125 for the gunsmith, that's not 2x the cost of a used SRH. Not sure where you get your numbers but it's not matching my experience.

 

[Hondo44]

Yes, lots'a variables in the pricing of used guns, and cost too have work done.

Another option is finding a spare 44 barrel to cut or one already cut to 4 3/4". That was my least expensive option when I did that with my early SBH. I have since re-installed the 7 1/2" barrel and Dragoon grip once shorter barreled models were introduced.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

But if you don't mind a little experience sharing from an old fart, I have a suggestion. It never pays to cut down a really nice original gun to make a configuration that Ruger already produces. Maybe you intend to do all the work yourself except the re-bluing. But especially if you have to have a smith do the work or some of it, you can have two guns for almost the same cash outlay by finding a used 4 3/4" SBH....

Used 7.5" blued new model SBH are very cheap compared to the shorter barrel version, the market is saturated. I'll bet once he shortens it it'll have a higher resale value. As for cost, I paid $125 to have a SRH shorten and ft sight brazed on. I bought the SRH off of gunbroker for under $600 including all fees, $125 for the gunsmith, that's not 2x the cost of a used SRH. Not sure where you get your numbers but it's not matching my experience.

These are my exact observations. I watched the gunbroker market for months. A 7.5 sells for an average of $350-$450 depending on wear and finish. A 4-5/8 is at least $100+ more on average. Granted there are some factors here that can't be accounted for like wanted a square trigger guard(for looks), and wanting the bigger grips.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So if I would go with an aggie base, any ideas on blade height? I know freedom arms has a list of sizes for their barrel lengths, but nothing related to load weights. The weigand base does come with screw and is made to be tapped, where as the aggie base would have to be modified. Case I solder these on without using the hot silver solder?

 

[Hondo44]

A bit exaggerated to fit the format but as one can see you would have to raise the front sight, or lower the rear, if the barrel is shortened in order to maintain the same POI.

"Let's say you have a 5 1/2" barrel, it will have a 6 1/2" sight radius. So ... you can easily compute POI at 25 yards. (25 yds=900 inches), 6.5/900=.007". This means each increment of .007" sight height will move POI (Point of impact) by 1 inch at 25 yards. Based on a gun shooting 6" low, this means the front sight must be lowered about (6 x .007=.042") .042" to shoot center at 25 yards. For a 4 5/8" barrel (4.62") it will have a 5.62" sight radius. 5.62/900=.006" ... so each .006" of sight height will change POI by 1 inch at 25 yards. You can measure front sight height by simply using a caliper with one jaw on the bottom of the barrel and the other jaw at the front sight's highest point. Once you have established a reference, just file the front sight where it is reduced in height by the calculated amount.

Here's a technique used with great success. First, shoot a 12 round group at your desired distance from a bench rest using the hold technique I mentioned above ... just make sure no part of the gun touches anything but your hands. You may want to practice a little until you are getting the best groups possible. Use a 1" aiming dot on the target ... not a large bullseye and take careful aim with a consistent sight picture for each shot and maintain your normal grip pressure. 25 yards is recommended but you may want to register your sights at a closer or farther distance. Next, throw out any flyers then find the center of your group. This will be your reference point so measure from the center of the aiming dot to the center of your group and jot down the measurement. Use the above formula: sight radius divided by inches to target and pick your front sight height accordingly."

Iowegan

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Yeh that's a great starting point. I have some suggestions on ex sight blade height, but no idea what combo to start with of using an aggie base and FA blades. And those blades aren't cheap....

 

[eveled]

Before I file a front sight, I paint the blade only up to the point I think is right. Shoot the gun, ignoring the unpainted portion of the blade, then when I am sure I have it painted to the right spot, I file down to the paint.

This way, I can shoot the gun on multiple days, before I make any permanent change.

 

[Bucks Owin]

Guess I'm a dinosaur. If I have a certain load that prints a little high at 25 yds like for instance my full tilt 325 gr 45 LC, I simply pull the front sight down into the rear notch a little.... :shock:

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Yeh I am undecided. Kinda hard to beat $10 for a new ruger from sight compared to $60+ for sight base and blade.

 

[steve8261948]

I truly doubt I'd do anything to this gun, just shoot it and enjoy it! If you want a shorter barrel then buy one! It is your gun so do as you desire but, a shame to alter this gun or any when another can be purchased.
Steve

 

[Prescut]

eveled,
I thought I was the only one that knew that trick. Except my eyes are so bad, I can't even see the black stub above the front site paint. No filing needed.
Prescut