New Model Blackhawk Light Primer Strikes

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bolo1000_0

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
7
Since posting earlier I have done more investigation: Let me first say that I bought the N.M. Blackhawk used with no info on the history of the gun. The revolver is in near perfect condition. It has (to me) an unusually light trigger pull, I think it is too light. Last night I turned the gun sideways, held it up to the light, and squeezed the trigger lightly until the hammer fell. If I squeezed it lightly (just like I was shooting it) the firing pin would only protrude a little bit. If I continued to squeeze the trigger the maximum ammount, I could see the firing pin protrude through farther. It seems that the trigger is releasing prematurely, and the transfer bar is not moving fully into position in time. I compared it to my Vaquero (not new Vaquero) in cocked position the transfer bar is higher on the Vaquero (noticibly). I don't know what to do, I already had a gunsmith replace the firing pin, thinking it was that. I paid $375 for the Blackhawk, I have $60 in the firing pin job......Now at least another $100 to tear it down again. I have some pictures that I will try and post. The other thing is: I don't have faith in the gunsmith I used before. He did a good job, but he blindly put in the firing pin without finding the real problem. I need a good Gunsmith for Ruger S.A. near the Charlotte, NC area. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for the advice.

I also posted this in the Smithing section.

Terry
 

Jayhawkhuntclub

Buckeye
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Messages
1,240
Location
Kansas
I'd question your gunsmith's competence (based on the limited information provided). Buy a factory hammer spring for $2. Install it (use a fork). And I think your problem is gone. You might ask the gunsmith if he already replaced the hammer spring, since it would be the obvious first step. But if he did, you'd probably have noticed a charge for it.

People like to put in lighter hammer springs to reduce trigger pull. It's a bad idea and completely unnecessary. You can take any NM Ruger and take it down below a 2 lb trigger with 10 minutes and a pair of pliers (by manipulating the trigger spring.

BTW, your transfer bar only needs to cover less than half the firing pin for the gun to fire.
 

tek4260

Buckeye
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
1,886
Location
carroll county ms
If it has a really nice trigger, someone may have also gotten carried away polishing the transfer bar and actually thinned it to the point of being too thin to "transfer" before the top of the hammer hits the frame. If you install too light of a trigger return spring, the trigger will not reset due to it being pinched by the hammer. I have seen transfer bars thinned and polished to make up for this, rather than the second step of the hammer being trimmed some.

$100 to tear down a Blackhawk!!!! I am in the wrong business.
 

ADP3

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 23, 2001
Messages
485
Location
SC
Before you look at the Mainspring (Hammer Spring) take a look at your trigger spring. Doing a "poor boy's" triiger job can lead to too much of a bend on the nose of the trigger spring. That will limit the travel of the transfer bar as the trigger raises it. If you find a bend in the nose of the trigger spring, straighten it out and see if that solves your problem.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 

Yosemite Sam

Hunter
Joined
Mar 18, 2002
Messages
2,113
Location
Cape Cod, MA, USA
Is this one of the later models, with the lock? If so, they have a light, 17lb mainspring, and doing the "unhook one trigger leg" thing can cause the leg to interfere with the m/s just enough to cause light strikes. I had exactly that problem on my Lipsey's .44 Special BH, and went to "bent legs" solution instead.

-- Sam
 

bolo1000_0

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
7
Thanks to everyone who has replied. I have ordered a new main spring, and trigger spring from Ruger. I will try this first.

The "Longer transfer bar" idea is interesting. Do these exist? Where? If the spring work does not work, I will replace the transfer bar.

If anyone has one of these, I would be interested.

The gun has a manufacture date of 1975. Serial #32-92XX.

Thanks, Terry
 

mikemike

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
Since posting earlier I have done more investigation: Let me first say that I bought the N.M. Blackhawk used with no info on the history of the gun. The revolver is in near perfect condition. It has (to me) an unusually light trigger pull, I think it is too light. Last night I turned the gun sideways, held it up to the light, and squeezed the trigger lightly until the hammer fell. If I squeezed it lightly (just like I was shooting it) the firing pin would only protrude a little bit. If I continued to squeeze the trigger the maximum ammount, I could see the firing pin protrude through farther. It seems that the trigger is releasing prematurely, and the transfer bar is not moving fully into position in time. I compared it to my Vaquero (not new Vaquero) in cocked position the transfer bar is higher on the Vaquero (noticibly). I don't know what to do, I already had a gunsmith replace the firing pin, thinking it was that. I paid $375 for the Blackhawk, I have $60 in the firing pin job......Now at least another $100 to tear it down again. I have some pictures that I will try and post. The other thing is: I don't have faith in the gunsmith I used before. He did a good job, but he blindly put in the firing pin without finding the real problem. I need a good Gunsmith for Ruger S.A. near the Charlotte, NC area. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for the advice.

I also posted this in the Smithing section.

Terry
A common problem with dealing with customers is that. They try and tell a professional what is wrong. I.E. you had the gunsmith replace the firing pin. He did what you asked him to do. Granted he should have performed a functions test and a live fire test before giving you back the firearm. Any good gunsmith would test fire to ensure they have fixed the issue. Moving forward you should try and fire factory ammo to find out if it is the rounds, you are handloading. Quick simple and cost less than taking it to a gunsmith. The tolerances are not something an eyeball can clearly see. I feel your frustration in this situation. Maybe take the firearm to the gunsmith and explain the issue without saying "I think" or "it may be from." I have been in this boat before. Some lazy ppl just do what you tell them and move to the next customer. A failure to fire on a single action is sometimes hard to diagnose. It can be the main spring is just too worn to provide enough force to transfer energy to the firing pin. Or your firing pin may be dirty enough to cause drag and a loss of energy on its way to the primer. Using factory ammunition is a good way to check. With factory ammunition At least you have a known base to start with. If it still happens then you can move forward and start checking other parts. Did you ask the gunsmith if he test fired the firearm before he gave it back to you? If he did test fire it. He should have used factory ammo Because that is the best way to test fire a firearm. Not saying that you don't know how to handload. Just saying that factory ammunition is a known factor and less likely to fail.
 

mikemike

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
Do this with an empty firearm. With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now keep the trigger pulled back, drop the hammer and observe the firing pin again. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, you're good to go. this will tell you if you are getting a light strike or not. try and fire a round and look at the primer. If it is barely touched but you can see the dent from the firing pin and it did not fire, then it is a light strike. both would point to that main spring or dirt build up.
 

mikemike

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
Thanks to everyone who has replied. I have ordered a new main spring, and trigger spring from Ruger. I will try this first.

The "Longer transfer bar" idea is interesting. Do these exist? Where? If the spring work does not work, I will replace the transfer bar.

If anyone has one of these, I would be interested.

The gun has a manufacture date of 1975. Serial #32-92XX.

Thanks, Terry
You have issues enough without adding parts that were not meant to be on that firearm. Fix the issue and then when you know it is working you can mod or change things. I am curious to see if the problem is a worn spring or worn firing pin. I doubt that it is the trigger spring. It is a single action, and the parts are simple. Honestly feel it's the handloaded ammo. That is just because it is an unknown to me. I don't know you and I have not watched you hand load anything. Don't take that as an insult. I would think the same even if it was me hand loading. It is the reason gunsmiths do not use hand loads to test fire a firearm. I really hope you find the problem. I know how frustrating it is to not be able to fire a loaded firearm.
 

mikemike

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Maryland
Since posting earlier I have done more investigation: Let me first say that I bought the N.M. Blackhawk used with no info on the history of the gun. The revolver is in near perfect condition. It has (to me) an unusually light trigger pull, I think it is too light. Last night I turned the gun sideways, held it up to the light, and squeezed the trigger lightly until the hammer fell. If I squeezed it lightly (just like I was shooting it) the firing pin would only protrude a little bit. If I continued to squeeze the trigger the maximum ammount, I could see the firing pin protrude through farther. It seems that the trigger is releasing prematurely, and the transfer bar is not moving fully into position in time. I compared it to my Vaquero (not new Vaquero) in cocked position the transfer bar is higher on the Vaquero (noticibly). I don't know what to do, I already had a gunsmith replace the firing pin, thinking it was that. I paid $375 for the Blackhawk, I have $60 in the firing pin job......Now at least another $100 to tear it down again. I have some pictures that I will try and post. The other thing is: I don't have faith in the gunsmith I used before. He did a good job, but he blindly put in the firing pin without finding the real problem. I need a good Gunsmith for Ruger S.A. near the Charlotte, NC area. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for the advice.

I also posted this in the Smithing section.

Terry
 

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