New GP100 Trigger has a hitch in its giddyup

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Sod

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
32
Location
Glendale, Arizona
I just bought a a new Ruger for the first time in about a decade. I am not new to firearms or Rugers I am no collector, just a shooter. I recently became aware of the 7 shot model 1774 with the 2.5" barrel and I had to have one. Love me some snubby's. It is a beauty and I am sure this is a minor issue due to a burr that I can take care of with a little sanding or polishing. I am just not sure where to look.

As I start to pull the trigger back in double action at about 1/4 cock I run into a wall. This is in slow fire trying to keep the sights on target. I hit a wall continue to squeeze and it feels like after an additional 5 lbs of force the cylinder rotates and the trigger slams all the way to fire. Like the pall or hand gets stuck and has to be forced pass a shelf? The single action trigger is very smooth and when cocking the hammer manually it is also very smooth. Just the double action trigger gets hung up?

I pulled the hammer and strut and gave them a quick polish along with the hammer dog (no change) but I have not taken out the trigger yet. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for or paying attention to?

Also when I pull the trigger fast I blow right through the wall, it is in slow fire double action only where the wall is really pronounced.
Thank for your help.
Mike
 

hittman

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How many rounds are through it?

I try to put a few hundred through mine before making any decisions on “mechanical” work it may need.

Rugers usually smooth out very nicely when shot a bit.
 

Sod

Bearcat
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Glendale, Arizona
Zero rounds down range. I hope to change that this weekend. I picked it up last night put a band aid on my finger and started dry firing it.
 
Joined
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Lemont, PA, USA 16851
Several things, first it is new so it probably needs a bit of a break in.

Also, when "thumbing" the hammer in SA mode, you're using a different (stronger) muscle to pull/cock the hammer and rotate the cylinder so you might not notice the hitch. When using the finger to move all that mass in DA mode, you would be more sensitive to any anomalies in the action, especially if trying to pull it through slowly. Pulling in a fast DA motion, again you are concentrating on getting it into battery and firing, not seeing how everything feels, so your muscles are working differently.

Another thing comes to mind, it is possible the the "window" in the frame that the pawl goes through may have some rough edges/burrs the the pawl catches/rubs on during its upward movement to rotate the cylinder. If you disassemble the GP and remove the cylinder assembly you will be able to get a pretty good look at that opening. If you see or feel anything, a few strokes with a small fine file should clean it up. While it is disassembled, also look at the pawl itself to see if there are any rough edges anywhere and smooth them if there are. At the same time, look at te sides of the pawl for any scratches that might indicate that it is rubbing on something.
 

Thel

Blackhawk
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Jun 22, 2010
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Pacific Northwest
It could be where the hammer being cocked goes from the hammer dog on top of the trigger shelf to the double action sear. Elsewhere an individaul with user name of Exlogger came up with details on this:

"You will need to disassemble your SP and reassemble leaving out the mainspring, cylinder, transfer bar, and pawl (helps narrow down the problem). Now apply a little pressure on the back of the hammer while pulling the trigger. If you still feel the catch in the same area, it is more than likely the contact area between the hammer and trigger. With my Super Redhawk the lower trigger step/notch was rubbing on the hammer step/notch during the transition from the hammer sear in DA mode. I fixed mine with a few strokes with a file on the lower step/notch of the trigger to allow a smooth transition between the two parts."

"The DA pull starts by lifting under the hammer dog and then transitions to the bottom trigger sear (where I filed). The trigger breaks from this spot at the end of the DA pull.

Ruger tries to get these places really close during transition to allow for a smooth pull. Mine just had a little too much meat causing contact when it would roll under. I could have taken some off the hammer sear, but the trigger sear had a nice flat spot making it easier to file.

I filed just a little, put it back together and tried the pull again. I repeated this process three times until they just "barely" brushed by each other and then seated.

I filed on the top of that sear/step not the side."

and a link to some pictures he posted:

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/exlogger/misc/GP-100Hammerskeleton_zps6263f4da.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/exlogger/misc/100_5488_zpsd044b892.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/exlogger/misc/100_5485_zps0fc7fe04.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
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Location
Dallas, TX
Interesting. I just bought a brand new 3 inch GP100 7 shot model. I haven't taken it to the range yet, but I wondered if Ruger gave these guns extra attention in the trigger dept. The trigger on my gun is exceptionally smooth. When dry fired in single action, it feels way less than 3 pounds, and in double action when dry firing, it is very smooth all the way through the trigger arc.

Have you tried dry firing fast in double action to see if that will smooth it out? I think I would try that before taking the gun apart and using a file on anything.

I've dry fired mine off and on for about a week now since I haven't had time to make it to the gun range. I'm not certain, but I do believe I can tell a difference after dry firing it several hundred times vs. when I first got it.
 
Joined
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Sod:
By the way, I also ordered a set of Badger Boot Grips. I can't say enough good things about them. Just FYI if you are thinking about some different grips for your new snubby.
yglYbaCl.jpg
 

Sod

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
32
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Thel, I think you have it. I put it back together, I’ve had enough for today. (pretty frustrated).
Is is definitely the transition from double to single action. I will give it another go tomorrow. It is a really nice trigger in every instance except the wall between double and single action. It takes 5lbs of pull to break through that sticking point. I will update tomorrow.
Thanks again, Mike
 

Sod

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
32
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Well, I could not let it sit, something about a bee in a bonnet...
I took a file to the area shown in Thel's picture and voilà, I have the new awesome snubby I thought I bought! Then DING DONG, the mailman with my new holster to pack it in.
From frustrated to thrilled all in about an hour.
Here she is.
Thanks Gents

LmbQlIz.jpg

X126Raw.jpg

wsXXshK.jpg
 

Thel

Blackhawk
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Messages
618
Location
Pacific Northwest
Glad it worked out. I have a 1774 just like the one you guys have and am happy with it. Mine was incredibly smooth throughout the trigger pull, more so than the other 2 GP's I have when evaluated in "out of the box mode for the first time".
 

dfletcher

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
921
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Leaving California .....
Thel said:
It could be where the hammer being cocked goes from the hammer dog on top of the trigger shelf to the double action sear. Elsewhere an individaul with user name of Exlogger came up with details on this:

"You will need to disassemble your SP and reassemble leaving out the mainspring, cylinder, transfer bar, and pawl (helps narrow down the problem). Now apply a little pressure on the back of the hammer while pulling the trigger. If you still feel the catch in the same area, it is more than likely the contact area between the hammer and trigger. With my Super Redhawk the lower trigger step/notch was rubbing on the hammer step/notch during the transition from the hammer sear in DA mode. I fixed mine with a few strokes with a file on the lower step/notch of the trigger to allow a smooth transition between the two parts."

"The DA pull starts by lifting under the hammer dog and then transitions to the bottom trigger sear (where I filed). The trigger breaks from this spot at the end of the DA pull.

Ruger tries to get these places really close during transition to allow for a smooth pull. Mine just had a little too much meat causing contact when it would roll under. I could have taken some off the hammer sear, but the trigger sear had a nice flat spot making it easier to file.

I filed just a little, put it back together and tried the pull again. I repeated this process three times until they just "barely" brushed by each other and then seated.

I filed on the top of that sear/step not the side."

and a link to some pictures he posted:

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/exlogger/misc/GP-100Hammerskeleton_zps6263f4da.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/exlogger/misc/100_5488_zpsd044b892.jpg

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc456/exlogger/misc/100_5485_zps0fc7fe04.jpg

I had the same issue on an SP101 and used the same solution.

Excellent tutorial. :!:
 

pinshooter

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 9, 2016
Messages
28
My 10 shot .22 GP100 had the same rough DA trigger on 4 of the 10. The problem was a poorly machined ratchet, I filed down the bad machining and that fixed the problem. Just something to look at on yours.

IcCcwwW.jpg
 

Sod

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
32
Location
Glendale, Arizona
I suppose, I could have launched hundreds of dollars worth of ammunition down range and hoped that would fix the obvious problem. I prefer to be proactive.
I am glad it is fixed.
Thanks again.
 

Snake45

Hawkeye
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
6,297
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+4020
Sod said:
Also when I pull the trigger fast I blow right through the wall, it is in slow fire double action only where the wall is really pronounced.
Mike
Not a huge problem. If you have time to fire "slow fire double action," you have time to cock it and shoot SA. DA is for fast work. If the "wall" isn't a problem fast, it's not really a problem. :wink:
 

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