Not a lot of experience with single actions. I cleaned the heck out of my new Blackhawks cylinders but shells still don't eject real easy. Thought about using Gunslick coated cloth around a brass brush turned by a hand drill. Sound ok? Any other ideas to slick it up, trigger pull seems pretty stout too. It shot really good at 15yds and will move back to 25 yds next week. Thanks.
New Blackhawk Questions
- Thread starter ftlupton
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I have had pretty good luck with a brass cleaning brush in a hand drill.
Three50seven
Buckeye
Shoot it..........A LOT
Flash
Buckeye
Get a 3/8" wooden dowel, slice it down the middle about the length of the chamber. Go to walmart and buy some 600 grit paper and cut a piece the length of the chamber by 2". Stick the dowel, with the paper in the slot, in your hand drill and smooth the chambers as needed. With this process, they can become like glass. None of my revolvers have stickey chambers
rooger
Single-Sixer
Flash":1yf3c08k said:Get a 3/8" wooden dowel, slice it down the middle about the length of the chamber. Go to walmart and buy some 600 grit paper and cut a piece the length of the chamber by 2". Stick the dowel, with the paper in the slot, in your hand drill and smooth the chambers as needed. With this process, they can become like glass. None of my revolvers have stickey chambers
Will this work for the .357 cylinder and the 9 mm cylinder?
Flash
Buckeye
in that case, get a 1/4" dowel or something close. I stepped up to a old shotguun cleaning rod and use that. A careful hand with the cleaning rod in a vise vertically can handle this with a hacksaw.
A
Anonymous
It is likely that there is a sharp corner just at the back of the cylinder just muzzleward of the rim of the cartridge. If you just break this corner...even steel wool will do, I think your brass will eject OK.
Often more shooting will take care of it too.
Often more shooting will take care of it too.
ftlupton, I would go with the "bronze" brush method in a variable speed hand drill "first". If that does the trick, your done! With this method you are basically "burnishing" the cylinder. Next I would go with the 0000 steel wool on a smaller bronze brush. This will be a little more "abrasive". Lastly, go with the 600 grit paper on a split dowel if it is still "sticky". In the case that you do have a "burr" of sorts at the mouth of the chamber, I usually use a tapered "brass" rod with 400 grit paper and rotate it by "hand" to remove the burr. Do this on all of the chambers if they all require it!..............................Dick :wink:
