My Flint Lock Rifle is finished
- Thread starter Ohio Outdoorsman
- Start date
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john guedry
Single-Sixer
Both of these are truly beautiful.
pete44ru
Hunter
You did a great job there !
If I built one like that, I would take the brass plate (opposite the lock) to a jewelery shop/engraver, and have my name done in a small script (as the maker), with a simple addy ( town, state abbrev) in block letters below:
John Doe
BREMEN, OH
I'd wanna shoot it, before I named it.
.
If I built one like that, I would take the brass plate (opposite the lock) to a jewelery shop/engraver, and have my name done in a small script (as the maker), with a simple addy ( town, state abbrev) in block letters below:
John Doe
BREMEN, OH
I'd wanna shoot it, before I named it.
.
T.A. WORKMAN
Hunter
Excellent job!!!!
Got to love those Flinters.
Thanks for sharing!!
Terry
Got to love those Flinters.
Thanks for sharing!!
Terry
Tekman
Bearcat
What a work of art!
I love gun porn
I love gun porn
Bubbagump
Bearcat
WOW that is beautiful
Wow, just looked at your link to the step by step process. You definitely have talent. Plus as a lefty myself, I bet it's doubly fun to shoot. Thanks for sharing.
pvtschultz
Blackhawk
I can honestly say that I am speechless. That is the most beautiful rifle that I have seen this year at least. Maybe longer! Do share your stock finishing technique. The combination of the stainless hardware and the dark stock is incredible. Just fabulous!
Well done!
Well done!
Ohio Outdoorsman
Bearcat
Thanks to every one for all of the nice comments.
G2: The rear sight is a full Buck Horn with no slot in it. I plan to use it as a barrel mounted peep sight. I have Macular Degeneration in my left eye and cannot focus sights very well so the peep type arrangement works well for me.
Here is the best picture I have of it. It also shows the cast-off in the stock.
The butt plate and trigger guard are copies from original guns and I did my own thing with the side plate, toe plate, barrel wedge plates. The Nose cap was poured on the stock.
pete44ru: I have been practicing hand engraving and when I feel confident enough I plan to put my name on it in script, just not sure if it is going on the barrel or the side plate.
pvtschultz: I agree the dark finish and the polished silver contrast nicely. The wife wanted me to finish it a little lighter but I think this way worked out best.
If you look at the photo essay on my website I pretty much show the finish process. It's long and tedious but well worth the results.
I finish sand to 600 grit then use Chromic acid to stain the wood. I put a coat on and let it dry for 15 minutes then a second coat after it has dried for 15 minutes I wipe the wood down real good with straight ammonia this neutralizes the acid. I then wet sand it with 2000 grit 8 or 10 times using half and half turpentine and linseed oil with a little powdered Alkenet root mixed in (the Alkenet gives it a very light reddish cast). I allow 3 hours or more between wet sandings. This sanding brings a slurry
of what looks like mud up out of the grain. I then let it dry for a couple of days and start a hand rubbed oil finish. I use Min Wax "ANTIQUE OIL FINISH" it's hard to find, it's a tongue oil finish and comes in a red and black can, only place I can find it locally is Menards. I put a coat on and let it set for no more than 2 minutes then buff with a soft cloth. After 6 or 8 coats it will start looking real nice. Experiment with a piece of scrap. It's a lot of work but I haven't seen anything that can compete with it.
On this stock after the last coat of oil I polished it with rottenstone mixed with mineral oil.
G2: The rear sight is a full Buck Horn with no slot in it. I plan to use it as a barrel mounted peep sight. I have Macular Degeneration in my left eye and cannot focus sights very well so the peep type arrangement works well for me.
Here is the best picture I have of it. It also shows the cast-off in the stock.
The butt plate and trigger guard are copies from original guns and I did my own thing with the side plate, toe plate, barrel wedge plates. The Nose cap was poured on the stock.
pete44ru: I have been practicing hand engraving and when I feel confident enough I plan to put my name on it in script, just not sure if it is going on the barrel or the side plate.
pvtschultz: I agree the dark finish and the polished silver contrast nicely. The wife wanted me to finish it a little lighter but I think this way worked out best.
If you look at the photo essay on my website I pretty much show the finish process. It's long and tedious but well worth the results.
I finish sand to 600 grit then use Chromic acid to stain the wood. I put a coat on and let it dry for 15 minutes then a second coat after it has dried for 15 minutes I wipe the wood down real good with straight ammonia this neutralizes the acid. I then wet sand it with 2000 grit 8 or 10 times using half and half turpentine and linseed oil with a little powdered Alkenet root mixed in (the Alkenet gives it a very light reddish cast). I allow 3 hours or more between wet sandings. This sanding brings a slurry
of what looks like mud up out of the grain. I then let it dry for a couple of days and start a hand rubbed oil finish. I use Min Wax "ANTIQUE OIL FINISH" it's hard to find, it's a tongue oil finish and comes in a red and black can, only place I can find it locally is Menards. I put a coat on and let it set for no more than 2 minutes then buff with a soft cloth. After 6 or 8 coats it will start looking real nice. Experiment with a piece of scrap. It's a lot of work but I haven't seen anything that can compete with it.
On this stock after the last coat of oil I polished it with rottenstone mixed with mineral oil.
I_Like_Pie
Blackhawk
That is pretty incredible
On the browning - Care to share what formula you used? ( Did you mix yourself or use a prepared solution) Have finished 11 guns in either rust blue or brown and can really appreciate the work that goes into making it look as yours.
Kudos to you! That is a very fine looking gun! Your website pictorial is great.
On the browning - Care to share what formula you used? ( Did you mix yourself or use a prepared solution) Have finished 11 guns in either rust blue or brown and can really appreciate the work that goes into making it look as yours.
Kudos to you! That is a very fine looking gun! Your website pictorial is great.
Ohio Outdoorsman
Bearcat
I_Like_Pie":2sa2odyi said:
This the first time I ever tried Rust browning. I used Laurel Mountain. I pretty much followed their expanded instruction posted on their website. I degreased all of the steel parts then washed them with a mixture of plain old gardening type lime and water. A friend told me that this would remove any traces of oil from the steel. After every coat I scrubbed it down with an old toothbrush and used a cool mist humidifier set up right beside it. The website said humidity was a key factor in the process. I let the last coat on for 12 hours before neutralizing. I then coated it with 30 weight motor oil for 24 hours, wiped it clean and put a light coat of gun oil on it.
I_Like_Pie
Blackhawk
Ohio Outdoorsman":26astoac said:
Good to know. That is what I use also....it is wonderful in that you don't have to worry about fingerprints. Makes a traditionally difficult process a piece of cake.
I've never seen a more beautiful, elegant, and tasteful rifle. Congrats on a job well done.
Bozack
Single-Sixer
Too pretty to shoot. Very impressive work.
wixedmords
Blackhawk
That's really something OO. You did a great job.
I'd be real proud of that one let me tell ya.
I'd be real proud of that one let me tell ya.
Beautiful!!! Amazing work!!! Outstanding craftsmanship!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing
valkrider8
Single-Sixer
Drop dead gorgeous, that should be in a glass case just to be admired. Great work !
