Well, I did it as well-----traded for a #3 in 45-70. I plan on using it for hogs and close up deer in this Fl palmeto and brush country. Now if anyone can give me a line on a #1 stock (cheap) I'll be all set. Thanks!!
luvs2hunt62,
As much as folks like to put the No.1 wood on a No.3, you should be aware that the No.3 style lever make for a rather cramped grip. Have you ever held one and shouldered it with No.1 wood on the No.3?
Look around for it, but I might can help with some No.1 wood, if that is what you want.
I have a #3 in 45-70 and never understood why anyone would want to put their fingers between the #3 lever and the wrist of the stock. On a #3 I use the lever as part of my grip and it is shaped well for that purpose. What really needs fixing to my mind is the recoil pad end.
Silent Sam.
You are supposing that every body Hands are the same.
You are dreaming. My #3 is a 375 Win, and until I did the modification on the lever the recoil really creamed my knuckles.
Another way to deal with the #3 lever on #1 wood is to have the smith bend it from the top curve and have the lever follow the pistol grip of the stock and then at the end put in a 1/4 turn that you use with your little finger to work the lever.
I've used 3 different #3 s over the years to make a 17 Mach IV, a .224 Weatherby and a 257 Roberts. With those three the recoil is low enough that the above method works great and to me looks great. Not sure the 45-70 might not bang your little finger or not but it's nothing that can't be undone if it doesn't work for you.
In near fututure I will improve the looks of my handy work by making the extension shorter with a bit of curl and move it up about 0.30" closer to the pistol grip.
Fred M - Here is a photo I spotted over at Cabelas.com - a custom #3. I really like how they re-worked the lever - thought you would enjoy viewing it as well.
Here is another view showing custom barrel and elevator rear sight. Pretty cool!!