My #3 (warning picture heavy)

[1RugerFan_33]

Ohio Outdoorsman, thank you for the info! Yes, as you say, it sounds like a lot of work...but worth ever minute, by the looks of things! I will have to try it...

 

[captainkirk]

Very nice work. Do you charge by the hour or by the job???

captainkirk

 

[Hairtrigger]

thats some very nice work!

 

[I_Like_Pie]

I finish sand to 600 grit then use Chromic acid to stain the wood. I put a coat on and let it
dry for 15 minutes then a second coat after it has dried for 15 minutes I wipe the wood down real good with straight ammonia this neutralizes the acid. I then wet sand it with 2000 grit 8 or 10 times using half and half turpentine and linseed oil with a little powdered Alkenet root mixed in (the Alkenet gives it a very light reddish cast). I allow 3 hours or more between wet sandings. This sanding brings a slurry
of what looks like mud up out of the grain. I then let it dry for a couple of days and start a hand rubbed oil finish. I use Min Wax "ANTIQUE OIL FINISH" it's hard to find, it's a tongue oil finish and comes in a red and black can, only place I can find it locally is Menards. I put a drop or 2 on let it set for no more than 2 minutes then buff
with a soft cloth. After 6 or 8 coats it will start looking real nice. Experiment with a piece of scrap. It's a lot of work but I haven't seen anything that can compete with it.

This is how it is done by a lot of very fine stockmakers in my area. That minwax antique finish can be found at some Ace Hardware stores...it is hit or miss which ones will carry it. with the linseed/Antique finish combo you can consistantly produce good results. Here is a stock that a friend and I are refinishing.

Before

Get this...this is a Sears and Roebuck bolt action 16 GA (Here)

 

[Wild Bill '67]

WOW !!! Words hardly do justice to your work. If this is just your first attempt, I'd say you have a real talent for this. One of the many things I love about forum contributors here is all the great guns made even better.

Welcome to the forum and thank you for sharing your tips with the rest of us.

 

[1RugerFan_33]

Here is a question for y'all:

Does the process create the look, or does the grain of the wood contribute to it? Am asking because I have a birch 10/22 stock I might try it on...

 

[Ohio Outdoorsman]

The process brings out and highlights the grain. I have made a few grips from both Curly and Birdseye maple and they turned out great. I just re-finished a CVA Flint lock that had a Birch stock. Though it doesn't have the grain pattern of the maple it turned out very nice. I'll post a picture of it this evening to give you an idea of what this finish does to Birch.

 

[1RugerFan_33]

Thanks for the info once again, Ohio Outdoorsman!

 

[rhinokrk]

WOW That is beautiful, very nice work. Thanks for the finish info.

 

[tacotime]

Ohio, can you make schnabel forearms for a Ruger #3, or know someone who does?

Can this be done on one of those stock duplicator machines?

Nice work.

Taco

 

[pvtschultz]

Unfortunately, Ohio Outdoorsman passed away last winter from a brain tumor. He was a true artisan and will be greatly missed here at the Ruger Forum.

 

[M'BOGO]

He will be missed.

 

[mohavesam]

Nice work! Hard to make a great gun better, but you did well.

Beautiful!
I sure wish Ruger would pull it's corporate head out of it's corporate ass and offer a new run of #3 rifles with calibers like 454 Casull or the Winchester short mags

480 Ruger (or other straight-walled case) Michigan Whitetail Special .
348 Winchester, eh? Canadian edition.
Make a Grandpa smile with a 25-35 woods gun.
Did someone say "1 of 500 in 357 Maximum" ???

Alas, I fear the reality is the No. 3 is long-gone.