Montado hammer. Where to buy?

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Greebe

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
313
Location
Way Up North
Just curious where one would buy a Montado hammer? I looked on Brownells, Midway, and Numrich with no luck. Is it just available through Ruger?"

Thanks
Greebe
 

dougader

Hunter
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
3,108
Location
OryGun
I don't think they're available except on the gun itself.... could be wrong, but that's my understanding.
 

JimMarch1

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
525
Location
Tucson, AZ, USA
Ummm...are you sure you wouldn't prefer a SuperBlackhawk hammer?

The "reach" and overall shape is the same. My NewVaq357 has worn an SBH hammer (easy to score at Brownell's) since shortly after purchase in 2005. I've compared it side-by-side to the Montado hammer and strongly prefer the SBH, esp. if you're a strong-side-cocker like me. The groove pattern on the SBH hammer seriously helps fast thumb-cocking, letting the thumb slide off the side at the end of the stroke and drop right to where it needs to be.
 

Greebe

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
313
Location
Way Up North
I would actually prefer the SBH hammer but from what I understand it fits but has some quirks. Also what I here from people around here is the SBH hammer apparently leaves a gap at the grip frame, and you end up with 12 clicks per rotation of the cylinder. I personally have not tried it so don't know.

How does yours function? Do you have any pic's of how it fits with the frame.

Thanks a lot,
Greebe
 

JimMarch1

Blackhawk
Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
525
Location
Tucson, AZ, USA
The guy who got "12 clicks" didn't know what he was doing. I commented on that! - short form, he did the wrong type of free-spin mod. Had nothing to do with the hammer.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtop ... 973#722973

The *Bisley* hammer has to be modified to fit non-Bisley grip frames. That's true of any Ruger SA.

Taking a closer look at my NewVaq357 and SBH hammer, I guess there is just a wee bit different fit. I suspect it's caused by the difference in frame ear height Ruger did sometime back. The difference is pretty minimal; I literally never noticed the roughly 3/32nds worth of "extra gap" before and the resulting "gap" makes no difference whatsoever in the gun's looks or handling.

The only cosmetically "funky" part about my hammer is that only stainless SBH hammers were in stock when I bought mine, so I ended up with a stainless hammer on a blue gun :). Eventually I'm going to score an aluminum ejector housing and bright-polish it, to reduce "muzzle weight" and also put less stress on the ejector rod screw under recoil.

I'd recommend the SBH hammer with no reservations for any of the mid-frame SAs.
 

tek4260

Buckeye
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
1,886
Location
carroll county ms
Well shoot. I guess I don't know what I am talking about. :roll:
I should leave it at that, but I did a little more tinkering with mine and found the problem. I originally thought the problem was the location of the hole for the pawl, but if that was the case it would bind at lockup. The problem was the top of the hammer was a bit long and didn't let the pawl fully retract when at rest due to the fact that the hammer didn't "rest" at the same depth as the original hammer. That is where the 12 clicks per rotation came from. I removed a bit of the face of the hammer and the extra clicks went away. I now only click from the plunger and it locates correctly as it is designed to do. I also took a bit more off the second step to do away with the transfer bar pinch. Everything now works properly. If Mr. March has clicks when rotating the cylinder with the loading gate open after removing the plunger assembly, then he has the same issue I had.

Again, the SBH hammer will function as is in a New Vaquero, but you will have transfer bar pinch due to the difference in transfer bars between Supers and NV's. This can be fixed by filing the second step. The freespin pawl will not fully retract at rest due to differences in the depth of the face of the hammer. Again, can be fixed with filing. File the upper face of the hammer until the pawl retracts far enough to clear the ratchet. Then you will only have six clicks and it will index properly at the click to eject/load. Once you have done that, check for transfer bar pinch. After firing, hold the trigger back. Watch the hammer. Does it move farther foreward when the trigger resets? If it does, you have pinch and need to remove metal from the second step in the hammer (the part that actually hits the transfer bar to fire). Once those two problems are addressed, everything else should be fine. The only other possible problem could be the weight of the hammer coupled with a weak mainspring. I have not had an issue with misfires tho...

But then again, "I don't know what I am doing" according to Mr. March.
 

Aggie01

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
978
Location
Texas (DFW)
I called Ruger a year ago and they sent me two Montado hammers, no questions asked, cost was around $40 each.

Put one in my New Vaquero AND one in my "old" Vaquero. No problems other than adjusting for transfer bar pinch, which you need to check on any swap.

I added knurled Belt Mountain pins to each. Normally I like the No. 5 style, but the knurling seemed to suit the checkered hammers.

Here's the New Vaquero.
To preemptively answer questions - It's an XR3-RED grip frame, crimson trace lasergrips, and a John Gallagher front sight serrate/slope that really made it easier to shoot consistently.
DSCN0819.jpg


The "old" Vaquero has wandered off to a shop where it's being converted to .480 Ruger...
 
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